Doors and Windows - Need help with a window replacement

You will have to forgive me because I don't know the correct termonology for alot of the things I will be talking about.

Anyways, I will be replacing 2 attic windows soon with vinal replacements. I was going to have it done by a pro, but he quoted me $765 for th job. I know that was a bit much since these windows can be bought for around $120 a peice at Home Depot.

Now, the original windows are built like this. On the outside I have a storm window. Next Is a wood frame window that slides up & down. Mext it a small strip of wood that is mabet 1/4"x1/4" used I believe to create a pocket that the previous window can slide in. This strip of wood is on both sides of the frame & at the top I believe. After that is another wood frame window that has the weights attached to it by strings. I was expectiong to have anothe 1/4"x1/4" strip of wood after that, but I dont.

I measured the window as I read in another thread & I made the 1/4" deductions as instructed there, but now Im lost...

1 - Do I remove the storm window & not put it back up after installing the replacement?

2 - What are my steps for removal & instalation?

Im sure your probobly sick of answering this question, but know it would be greatly appreaciated if you could instruct me.

How to install replacement vinyl windows
If you have standard double hung wood windows



First, I’m assuming you have read my “how to measure “ and have your windows ready to go in.

1. Remove the storm windows. The wood strip or ledge they were screwed to is the “storm stop”. Usually a strip of wood about ½ x ½” that extends back under the exterior moulding. In addition to giving a place to mount a storm window, it also serves as the stop for the outer most sash, the upper one.

2. You can either remove the storm stop with a wood chisel and take the sashes out to the outside…..which I do IF the inside is painted up and I don’t want to disturb it…..or you can remove the inside stop ( the one that holds the lower sash in place as it slides up and down). Don’t take off the top outside stop. Not necessary. If the inside stop is stained and will come off easy, go that route. Do take off the top inside stop…..necessary…but save them for reinstall.

3. If you have fairly “modern” windows with the aluminum tracks, just raise both sashes to the top, slip a bar or hammer claw in behind the track and fold it inward…..usually couple staples holding it, then grab both sashes together and jerk in the direction you took the stop out. The whole mess will come right out in your hands, be ready. People put deadbolts on their doors and 4 little staples hold the windows in…..ahahahahahahahaha

4. If you have the older rope and pulley type window, after taking one of the stops out, cut the sash cords on the first sash( boom/boom…those were the counterweights falling back in their cavity) and take out the sash. Then take out “parting stop”…..a 3/4x1/2” strip set in a dado ( groove) in the side jamb. Probably painted all to whizzz, but pry with a small chisel or screwdriver and it will pop out. Then you can cut the cords to the other sash and take it out.

5. On both, there is a parting stop at the top of the window…remove it too or the new window won’t go in place.

6. There is a type of wood double hung I call “pop and go” windows. They used a spring loaded aluminum strip on one side to put pressure against the sash as the method to hold it in place. All you do to get those out is grab the sash, jerk toward the spring loaded side ( usually the left side from inside looking out) and the sashes will come right out. Then take the aluminum tracks out ( screws set in pockets). The pocket on the spring side is deep…..you need to measure this type window slightly more in width. Usually a 28” wide window I make 28 ¼” so it will set in that pocket a little better….and you still have to stuff some insulation there.

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7. Now set your new window in the frame. Put it tight against either the inside or outside stop, whichever you didn’t take off. Level, make sure the new window is square, then use the four screws that came with it to install. If your windows are tall, I run another screw in the side jamb ABOVE the travel point of the sash shoe on the inside track to hold the jamb securely where you want it. Don’t bother using the jamb adjusters that come with them, most are junk.

8. Run bead around the outside on sides and top. Stuff some fiberglass insulation under the bottom where the new window is flat and the wood sill slopes away. Then you can slip the sill extension piece ( that flat pc with a little lip that came with the window) onto the bottom of the window to fill that gap, and install a couple of wood strips to replace the stop you cut off. Caulk and paint as needed….OR

9. I make aluminum trim to cover all the outside wood. If you can rent a sheet metal brake, buy some aluminum trim coil and do the same. This is a deal where pictures would be worth a zillion words…..maybe I’ll set up a website one day to show you how. This finish work is what separates the amateur work from the pro work.

What Andy said. And, NO, you won't be putting the storm windows back. There's no need to!!