Carpentry and Woodworking - Veneering a curved surface
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nancy
01-03-04, 07:41 PM
Hello -
I need to replace the oak veneer on a curved surface. I have only done veneering on a flat surface, so far.
I am supposing that if I simply try to glue the veneer on, it will crack, splinter, etc.
Is there a recommended way to pre-curve the veneer piece before trying to glue it?
Thanks. I am restoring a clock; the base has a sort of square-onion shaped middle. The veneer will have a sort of S-shaped profile.
Regrds - Nancy
I need to replace the oak veneer on a curved surface. I have only done veneering on a flat surface, so far.
I am supposing that if I simply try to glue the veneer on, it will crack, splinter, etc.
Is there a recommended way to pre-curve the veneer piece before trying to glue it?
Thanks. I am restoring a clock; the base has a sort of square-onion shaped middle. The veneer will have a sort of S-shaped profile.
Regrds - Nancy
chfite
01-03-04, 10:18 PM
If you are using modern, backed veneers, you will find that they flex easily to fit irregular surfaces.
nancy
01-04-04, 12:52 AM
Hello -
My veneer is 1/32" wood sheets - no backing. I guess it must be antiquated veneer...I use contact cement to attach it. It is fairly rigid.
Nancy
My veneer is 1/32" wood sheets - no backing. I guess it must be antiquated veneer...I use contact cement to attach it. It is fairly rigid.
Nancy
Furniture Bldr
01-04-04, 03:09 AM
Nancy, First off
Using Contact Cement on a veneer that doesn't have any backer, really isn't a good idea. Reason being, when you clean off the contact cement with any type of solvent, it soaks through the pours of the wood and breaks down the contact cement.
In the 15 years I've been in the field of Custom Furniture Manufacturing, we have always used contact cement. I'm now coming to realize and find out from others that contact cement isn't a good product to use on any type of veneer; with a backer or not. Contact Cement is like rubber, it really never dries. When exposed to the elements and temp change, it still expands and contracts. When this happens, the veneer flexes and cracks the finish. It leaves almost what feels like an aligators back.
The best way to apply the veneer in your situation would be to make a solid piece of wood that matches the exact curves as the clock. Glue the piece of veneer on using yellow wood glue "Titebond II" You will glue up your piece of veneer "Oversized in length and width" apply the veneer and then take the solid piece of wood you made to fit the curves etc and clamp that over it. That will be your pressure to apply the piece of veneer. Use a piece of wax paper between the piece of wood you made and the veneer itsself.
The easy way out is to use Contact Cement. It will work, but next time you're better off using a paper back veneer. 3M makes a preglued product which is applied to the veneer. "Peal and Stick" From what i was told, it works well. You can find it at Owl Hardwood in Des Plaines, IL 847 824-5025. They ship too. It will be a piece larger than what you need, but you will end up using it some time in the future for other projects.
Before you apply the new veneer, you need to remove the old and fix any damage to the glueing surface with wood putty or Bondo. Then apply your veneer over that.
Make sense? If not, let me know what you're confused on.
Using Contact Cement on a veneer that doesn't have any backer, really isn't a good idea. Reason being, when you clean off the contact cement with any type of solvent, it soaks through the pours of the wood and breaks down the contact cement.
In the 15 years I've been in the field of Custom Furniture Manufacturing, we have always used contact cement. I'm now coming to realize and find out from others that contact cement isn't a good product to use on any type of veneer; with a backer or not. Contact Cement is like rubber, it really never dries. When exposed to the elements and temp change, it still expands and contracts. When this happens, the veneer flexes and cracks the finish. It leaves almost what feels like an aligators back.
The best way to apply the veneer in your situation would be to make a solid piece of wood that matches the exact curves as the clock. Glue the piece of veneer on using yellow wood glue "Titebond II" You will glue up your piece of veneer "Oversized in length and width" apply the veneer and then take the solid piece of wood you made to fit the curves etc and clamp that over it. That will be your pressure to apply the piece of veneer. Use a piece of wax paper between the piece of wood you made and the veneer itsself.
The easy way out is to use Contact Cement. It will work, but next time you're better off using a paper back veneer. 3M makes a preglued product which is applied to the veneer. "Peal and Stick" From what i was told, it works well. You can find it at Owl Hardwood in Des Plaines, IL 847 824-5025. They ship too. It will be a piece larger than what you need, but you will end up using it some time in the future for other projects.
Before you apply the new veneer, you need to remove the old and fix any damage to the glueing surface with wood putty or Bondo. Then apply your veneer over that.
Make sense? If not, let me know what you're confused on.