Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Moose Z1100 (Lost code)

I have a Moose Z1100 control pad and I have no idea what the main code is. Is there anyway to recover the code or re-program a new code without knowing the old one?

Yes, but you'll need the manual - http://safewatchservice.com - one can grab it there.

There's a "back-door" into programming on these systems - the manual explains how to use it - once you're in programming, you can change the Master Code.

Let us know if you need any help.

Brandon, thanks for your help!

My system is a Nutech (Nutone) Model SX-3136 [SX 3100 Control Communicator] that was installed around 1986 or thereabouts. It uses a Moose MPI-11 siren driver. The remote control stations are either Moose Z1100 or Z1100e units with the "NuTech" logo printed on them.

I believe NuTech (Nutone's higher-end security systems) were bought out by GE ("Interlogix"), which is now no longer available.

This is my problem......

I bought the house about seven years ago without ever getting the main (Master) code from the previous owner. The system was energized (lights on the remote stations lit-up) but I never used the system by "setting" the system to go off. Well, one day I decided to play with the buttons and the siren started sounding so I unplugged the system's 120 volt transformer and removed the battery back-up so the system is now completely down.

Of course the system was shut down while in the "alarm mode" so I'll have to disconnect the siren if I can find out how to change the main code.

The problem is that I don't know what the main code is, therefore I can't bring the system back to a normal safe state.

Maybe you know how I can accomplish changing the system's (unknown) main code to a new one?

Kooter

Z-1100s and their relabled clones do have a basic back door. There is a hitch, though. You have to determine which base version you have. Sentrol was the last owner of Moose before the line was discontinued.

The Z-1100, z-1100 system II, and z-1100e, all have a different memory map and programming procedure. They all used the same keypad, so there's no way to tell which one is which without comparing the layout of switches and terminals inside the cabinet.

Unless it was set up to power up in the previous state, (which few installers did), applying power again should be ok. It does have an on off switch (the black slide switch in the lower left hand corner of the control). If I recall, the procedure to enter program mode without a code will bypass the alarm state.

Question 1: Is there a small black pushbutton on the left side of the PCB, or is there a small wire loop switch (it looks like a tiny safety pin)?

I see a black retangular "Power" On-Off slide switch at the lower left of the control panel. Just to the right of the switch is a solid wire on the PCB with the symbol "F1" (fuse) where it is located. I do not see a pushbutton on the control PCB. Is the pushbutton you're talking about (if I have one) on the remote control or on the control unit PCB?

I do have a pushbutton on the remote unit but it's not black. It's a recessed metal piece that I can see through a hole in the plastic front (when I lift the front plate) on the left-hand side between #5 and #6. I'm not sure if the pushbutton you're asking about is on the control unit PCB or the remote. Please let me know...

Kooter

PS - I turned the black power switch to "Off" and plugged the transformer in but when I turned the power switch back "On" again it sounded the alarm so I guess it's set up to remain in the previous state of alarm.


Originally posted by MrRonFL
Z-1100s and their relabled clones do have a basic back door. There is a hitch, though. You have to determine which base version you have. Sentrol was the last owner of Moose before the line was discontinued.

The Z-1100, z-1100 system II, and z-1100e, all have a different memory map and programming procedure. They all used the same keypad, so there's no way to tell which one is which without comparing the layout of switches and terminals inside the cabinet.

Unless it was set up to power up in the previous state, (which few installers did), applying power again should be ok. It does have an on off switch (the black slide switch in the lower left hand corner of the control). If I recall, the procedure to enter program mode without a code will bypass the alarm state.

Question 1: Is there a small black pushbutton on the left side of the PCB, or is there a small wire loop switch (it looks like a tiny safety pin)?

The switch in question will be on the left side of the control between the terminal strip on the left and the metal housing that covers the center of the PCB. It's about halfway up the panel.

It sounds like yours is most likely a rebranded z-1100, so it will have the metal loop switch. It will be to the right of terminal #10.

Yes, beside of terminal #10 there is a "switch" that has two wire loops with a blue base. Beside this switch the PCB says "Program Switch".

Now that I have found this switch, what does that tell us...and what should I do?

Kooter

PS - I'm a little bit confused about calling the "security system" a Z1100. Why wouldn't the system be referred to as a SX-3100 (SX-3136 is what is shown on my control unit) and the remote keypads it uses referred to as a Z1100? It seems the "system" is referred to as a Z1100, which confuses me.

The Nutech sx-3100 units were slightly altered duplicates of the Moose Z-1100 series. For the most part, the hardware and programming are identical, or nearly so.

The good news, it that if you get the installer and programming manuals for this system, if you power it up with the program switch closed, it will jump directly into programming mode, allowing you to change the go to program and user codes.

You do need the Nutech version of the manuals, because there are very slight differences in the memory map (the default to power up in last state, being one such).

I don't know if Brandon has those particular manuals in his stash, but you really do _need_ them. Moose panels (and all of their clones) can be a little frustrating to a novice. And it is very easy to really goober the puppy up.

Nope, I don't have those particular versions of the manual - the only ones I have are the Moose versions (from the GE/ITI site, who of course owns Sentrol and Moose now.) However, being a GE/ITI dealer, that does mean I may be able to call TS and get the manuals for you - but that's no guarantee.

I actually had no idea NuTech had a version of the Moose panels out - never seen one; but, then again, I haven't really worked in service (regularly) for about 2 years now.

Let me know if you'd like me to see if I can get my hands on the NuTech versions of the manuals.

Thanks for helping out Ron - I would have been in the dark on this panel.

I have acquired the "User's Manual" for a NuTech Model SX-3136 (For use with Model SX-3100LCD NuTech Alarm System). I assume this is the user's manual for my particular model because my control unit says "SX-3100", but I'm not absolutely sure it's the correct manual since I understand these types of units have had different versions and modifications. Please let me know if you agree that I have the correct user's manual, or the appropriate information, to accomplish re-programming the "Master Programming Code"...keeping in mind that I do not have the current master code.

If you feel that I do have the appropriate manual to accomplish re-programming the "Master Programming Code" should I proceed in powering-up the system with the program switch closed? (I assume to close the Program Switch I push the two wire loops inward toward the PCB as I turn the On-Off switch "On". (I'm not familiar with how to use that type of switch.) Also, the User's Manual does not mention or address the Program Switch...whereas I assume the "Installer Manual" most likely does.

Whatcha think?

Thanks alot for both you guys help!

Kooter


Originally posted by MrRonFL
The Nutech sx-3100 units were slightly altered duplicates of the Moose Z-1100 series. For the most part, the hardware and programming are identical, or nearly so.

The good news, it that if you get the installer and programming manuals for this system, if you power it up with the program switch closed, it will jump directly into programming mode, allowing you to change the go to program and user codes.

You do need the Nutech version of the manuals, because there are very slight differences in the memory map (the default to power up in last state, being one such).

I don't know if Brandon has those particular manuals in his stash, but you really do _need_ them. Moose panels (and all of their clones) can be a little frustrating to a novice. And it is very easy to really goober the puppy up.

<font color="red"><b>PLEASE NOTE:</b> Before you try this, I would make sure MrRon confirms that it will work - I'm only telling you what I have read and <i>think</i> will work.</font>

I found a Z1100 manual that was written by a tech at a big monitoring company - one of my many service manual CD's. Here's an excerpt from that manual:
To enter programming
1. Enter 9 9 8 7 6 5 (keypad should beep)
2. Flip open keypad cover, at bottom is two slots where cover latches, right slot
has small program switch, press down while entering next step
3. Press 0 (keypad should beep and you're in programming)
4. Press 022 to move to first program step
If programming code does not work turn off power, hold down program switch
while powering up system, keypad will power up and have no lights showing,
press 0 to enter programming
To exit programming press *
And here's what it says about the User Authorization Codes:
<table><tr><td>000
001
002
003
004
005
006
007
008
</td>
<td>
FAST LOOP response time. 40 milliseconds to
SLOW LOOP response time. 10.2 seconds
USER 1 AUTHORIZATION CODE
*Stored in condensed (packed) format*
* Program from USER LEVEL ONLY!! *
TWO DIGIT ARMING. (000=Enables 255=Disables)
USER 2 AUTHORIZATION CODE
*Stored in condensed (packed) format*
* Program from USER LEVER ONLY!! *
</td>
<td>
002
008
018
069
000
255
255
255
255
</td></tr></table>

This is the part I'm not real sure about - the programming fields may be different on your version of the system (the User Manual should tell you the programming fields for your system.) And, on top of that, there is a note that specifically says "Program from USER LEVEL ONLY!!" on each of these - I'm not sure if that means you <i>cannot</i> program from installer programming, or if there are adverse reactions if programmed from installer programming? Maybe MrRon will know?

But, my thoughts are that you can go into programming (using the method in the first quote - latch the programming switch and power up - then, instead of going to 022 (installer programming fields) go to 002 (User 1 Code) and change your code, then exit using *? Will that work, Ron?

The numbers on the left are the programming fields (000 - 008), then the description of the field, then the factory default is on the right. What doesn't make sense to me is the 018 and 069 for the User 1 Code (unless it has something to do with this "condensed (packed) format"? Again, MrRon - any ideas?

Maybe that will at least help a little bit though :confused:

Good luck!

Thanks Brandon! As you suggested, let's wait to see what Ron thinks.

Kooter

The info you have will put the system into installer program mode. Not what you want, at least initially.

First, you may want to temporarly move one of the keypads to the location of the control panel, as running back and forth can be annoying when you are trying to fool with this thing.

Turn the power switch off

Close the program switch on the main system board.

When you power back up, the system will be in user program mode. (should beep several times, 4, I think)

To change the go to program code:

Enter the following:
5 (should beep 3 times)
9+98765
(should beep 3 times and exit to normal mode)

power down and open the program switch.

This should change the program code back to the factory default of 98765.
From there, the info in the user manual should allow you to change the access codes to whatever you need.

I have the PDFs of the installer and program manual, and would be glad to send them to you.

I will warn you, moose clones are a right pain in the neck. A split second hesitation at the wrong point of the programming sequence will have you starting over (which is why having the keypad right there is handy).

Get used to the user level of programming before you tackle the installer level. To say that it's not intuitive is an understatement.

Thanks for all the help!

I happen to have one of my two keypads just three strides from where the control panel is located so hopefully that be close enough.

When you say "open the program swith", how do you do that? Is it by pushing down on the left-hand (moveable) wire loop on the Progarm Switch?

Also, do I disregard Brandon's instructions entirely, including Item #2 that says "Flip open keypad cover, at bottom is two slots where cover latches, right slot has small program switch, press down while entering next step"?

Ron, I would love to have the PDFs of the installer and program manual. Should I sent you a "Private Message" with my email address so you can send them?

Kooter




Originally posted by MrRonFL
First, you may want to temporarly move one of the keypads to the location of the control panel, as running back and forth can be annoying when you are trying to fool with this thing.

Close the program switch on the main system board.

Brandon's instructions are one of the installer setup program messages. You simply cannot change the access codes from the installer level. It will overwrite whatever's in the system with useless junk code.

You close the program switch by hooking the longer wire under the hook on the shorter piece, you leave it that way during the program sequence.

When you turn it back off, then you unhook the wire so that they are no longer in contact.

Once you have the program code changed, you shouldn't need to put it into the hardware program mode again (assuming that the basic wiring hasn't been changed on your contacts and zones).

Send me a message off forum, and I'll send you the PDF's.

Our company used to be a major Moose dealer, so I inherited a pretty extensive archive of old system parts and manuals.

Ron, I sent you a "private message" with my email address.

Kooter

I do not understand what you mean when you said "You close the program switch by hooking the longer wire under the hook on the shorter piece. Would you please explain.

Kooter

It works just like a safety pin. It's just awkwardly placed and small. I usually use a small pair of needle nose pliers to maneuver the thing (gently if you break it off, its nearly impossible to fix.

It's just a very primative form of electric switch.

Ron, I looked at that switch again and it sure appears to be only a momentary switch, which cannot be latched as you suggest. (The contact post [on the program switch] that sticks out vertically is just a post with no loop or hook.) I'll just jumper the switch so it is "made" or shorted (closed).

I sent you a PM (private message) that I see you haven't read yet. I gave you my email address so you can email me the PDFs.

I would like to read through the information before attempting the main program code change.

Please email me the PDFs. Thanks!

Happy Holidays!

Kooter

It's very likely that the hook got broken off of the switch in the past (not uncommon, the darned things are a bit of a pain to hook and release, it's entirely possible that hooking the little belly in the longer wire under the protrusion on the blue plastic part will hold it in contact. They made a lot of minor variations on these boards.

Ron, I sent you an email to your email address. If I understand your last post, you needed my email address to send me the PDFs.

You might be unaware that this website has a "private message" (PM) system. Look at the bottom of the forum main page and click on "Private Messages" to receive (or send) messages from other members privately. You will have a "private message" from me...with my email address for the return of the PDFs.

Thanks!

Kooter

Hi Ron,

I got the PDFs. Thanks a lot! Now I have a lot of reading to do...

Best regards,
Kooter

Ron & Brandon,

Bingo! I was able to re-set the Main Programming Code back to the default code and change the Personal Access Code to one of my choice.

Many thanks to both of you fine gentlemen for helping me, especially Ron for taking the time to send me the PDF files for both the installer manual and programming manual. Without the help from both of you I would have had a security system that was completely worthless. Now I have a security system that works and one that I can finally access and control as I wish!

I had almost given up on ever being able to energize my security system again…and making it so I could actually use it, whether I use a security monitoring service or not.

Once again, THANK YOU very much…

Best regards,
Kooter

I built my home in 1988 and had a Z1100 alarm system put in but have not used it in years. It now starts beeping at 4am every morning until I get up and press at * button. This morning at 3am the system went off and I didn't know what to do but push a bunch of numbers it finally shut off after about 30 minutes. This is very frustrating. I need help on getting this fixed. Any suggestions? I guess for one I need to figure out what the code is or create a new?
Any help is much appreciated
Felix

If you want to try to use the system, you can reset your user code. If you just want the thing to shut up, turn off the power switch on the lower left side of the PC board in the main cabinet.

The odds are that you have a dead/dying backup battery (If the power light is flashing, that's the problem).