Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Uneven Plywood subfloor + Oak Flexibility?

ANYONE out there know HOW MUCH of a BEND red oak floor strips (2 1/4") can tolerate over approximately a 3 foot length?

I've got a butting of plywood subflooring where one plywood sheet is at a decline of approx 2-5 degrees from level (the builder left it that way).

I've removed linoleum to discover a non-level floor and I can't afford to raise it with filler to make it level, since I need to match the level of adjacent rooms' floors. I'm currently sanding the uneven "peak" butting edges of the plywood subfloor, but sanding it to 100% level doesn't look reasonable to aim for.

I want to know when I can stop sanding and start laying planks... completely level (more difficult) or somewhat level (easier + faster)?

Hello & welcome aboard.

Is this like in a transition area or what? Ideally you'd like a flat level subfloor to start out with.

Is this like 5/8" thick and real red oak flooring we're talkin about?

The flooring is 3/4" (or so it says) prefinished Bruce red oak.

The room is a kitchen with two passageways to other rooms that already have finished-in-house hardwood floors done at construction 5 yrs ago. I want to match the passageways because they will butt the new wood.

I just don't want squeaks, loose boards, or uneven doorways for tripping. I know it would have been better to have done the flooring all at one time, but this is how it was sold to us.

3/4" red oak is going to have little to no flexibility, best option IMO would be to bring the subfloor of this area up to a level 3/4" below the finished surface of the existing floor so the two will match up when the new flooring is installed.

Other option would be to install what I call a spine, (transition piece) where the two floors meet. HTH Good luck. ;)

If you can't afford to make the floor flat, can you afford to redo it later?

The way I see it, you need to pull the subfloor up, and find out what is causing the crown in the floor. Then fix it, so you don't gain height at the existing hardwood.

THANK YOU for your suggestions- they were helpful in working out a solution. Although I chose not to pull up the lower subfloor, I did rent a floor sander and sand down the "peak" in the lower subfloor sufficiently to make it relatively flat

There was a tolerance for flexibility included inside the hardwood cartons that stated the boards could be nailed down over uneven areas to a maximum of about 1/8th inch per yard.

Between the limited flex of the wood and the sanding of the subfloor, the hardwood was successfully installed, and the owner is happy.

Happy Holidays to all!

You made it sound worse then it was then!

Glad you got it licked.

Before solving a problem never faced before, we never know if it will be easy or ugly. One piece of information (based in experience I didn't have) was the key.
I took the easier way out, even though it was clearly not the best path. This time it appears to have worked, but whether it lasts long enough to call it a success... only time will tell- or maybe the owner after the next.
Happy 2004!