Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - 5 hp tecumseh won't stay started
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : 5 hp tecumseh won't stay started
Illbreakit
12-12-03, 01:25 PM
I have 5 hp tecumseh engine on a craftsman snowblower. The engine will not stay started. I have poured a small amount of gas directly into the spark plug hole. Forgive my lack of engine vocabulary. The engine will start for a second, telling me the gas has burned away and I'm getting spark. I think I'm not getting any gas to the engine, yes there is NEW gas in the tank. After tinkering, I've found that after I prime the engine for more than 10 or 20 pumps the engine will fire for less than a second. Maybe that's a clue. Please help me, anyone's helpful remarks would be appreciated.
cheese
12-13-03, 01:11 AM
Hello Illbreakit!
You described the problem well, and diagnosed it correctly! The carburetor is clogged. At the bottom of the carb you will see a bolt head. Remove it and pull the bowl off. Clean out the bowl and look at the screw/bolt that holds it on. There are tiny holes in it. May be as many as 4. Usually 2 oppose each other near the head of the screw, one is near the end and is very tiny, and one going down the center. Make sure all of these are open and free of debris and fuel varnish. This should get you running again.
Let us know how it goes!
You described the problem well, and diagnosed it correctly! The carburetor is clogged. At the bottom of the carb you will see a bolt head. Remove it and pull the bowl off. Clean out the bowl and look at the screw/bolt that holds it on. There are tiny holes in it. May be as many as 4. Usually 2 oppose each other near the head of the screw, one is near the end and is very tiny, and one going down the center. Make sure all of these are open and free of debris and fuel varnish. This should get you running again.
Let us know how it goes!
FJMike
12-16-03, 02:24 PM
I have the same problem, same engine, so I thought I would jump into this thread. A neighbour brought me his snowblower, no start, pour some gas into plug hole and runs about 2 seconds. The bottom of he carb has a little spring loaded button, which I drained a little gas from. The gas smelt very old (varnish), so I removed the carb, float bowl, and used compressed air to clean out the small bolt and any ports I found. Re installed with fresh gas, but problem remains. When I pump the primer button, I hear air moving in the carb, possibly leaking out of a tiny little hole about an inch above where the primer hose hooks on to the carb. Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
-Mike
-Mike
cheese
12-16-03, 10:28 PM
Hello Mike!
The carburetor is still restricted. Sometimes the holes in the bolt you removed will be clogged to the point that you can't even see them. Usually the one that gives this trouble is the very small hole near the end of the threaded end of the bolt. Recheck...you might have to soak the carb in chemdip or similar carb cleaner.
The carburetor is still restricted. Sometimes the holes in the bolt you removed will be clogged to the point that you can't even see them. Usually the one that gives this trouble is the very small hole near the end of the threaded end of the bolt. Recheck...you might have to soak the carb in chemdip or similar carb cleaner.
Illbreakit
12-16-03, 10:56 PM
Mr. Cheese,
Your advice seemed to have done it. I was suprised of the results, being that at first inspection of the bolt that anchors the bowl it didn't appear to be overly clogged or clogged at all. I still proceded to clean in thoroughly and when replaced the engine started immediately. It seems that the fuel system is very sensitive. Upon starting, which brought a smile to my face, the front auger didn't want to turn. The metal wheel that shoots the snow up and out spins fine. I'd assume the front "differential" that turns the auger has a problem. If anyone has some idea on that let me know. Otherwise, thanks again cheese for that advice.
Thanks,
Illbreakit (not on purpose!)
Your advice seemed to have done it. I was suprised of the results, being that at first inspection of the bolt that anchors the bowl it didn't appear to be overly clogged or clogged at all. I still proceded to clean in thoroughly and when replaced the engine started immediately. It seems that the fuel system is very sensitive. Upon starting, which brought a smile to my face, the front auger didn't want to turn. The metal wheel that shoots the snow up and out spins fine. I'd assume the front "differential" that turns the auger has a problem. If anyone has some idea on that let me know. Otherwise, thanks again cheese for that advice.
Thanks,
Illbreakit (not on purpose!)
cheese
12-16-03, 11:13 PM
Glad you got it running! Is it belt driven? Check belts, but other than that, I probably can't give much advice. I wish we had a snowblower expert on here...I live too far south to know anything about them.
FJMike
12-17-03, 09:35 AM
You were absolutely correct, Cheese ! I removed the bolt on the float bowl, and recleaned gently with a fine piece of wire, and it started first pull ! I am very grateful for your help. Thank you very much.
I may be able to assist Illbreakit. If you are sure the impeller is turning, there is a shaft that connects the impeller to the auger gear reduction box. On that shaft there is a bolt that runs through the shaft, I believe it is called a sheer bolt, that is supposed to break if you hit something solid (such as a rock), or if the auger has seized up (I hope not). You may find that bolt has snapped off. If this is the case it should be replaced with the same type of bolt for safety reasons. Please be sure you remove the spark plug wire while checking !
-Mike
I may be able to assist Illbreakit. If you are sure the impeller is turning, there is a shaft that connects the impeller to the auger gear reduction box. On that shaft there is a bolt that runs through the shaft, I believe it is called a sheer bolt, that is supposed to break if you hit something solid (such as a rock), or if the auger has seized up (I hope not). You may find that bolt has snapped off. If this is the case it should be replaced with the same type of bolt for safety reasons. Please be sure you remove the spark plug wire while checking !
-Mike
jlm
12-17-03, 02:10 PM
Also check that the gear in the auger gear box is not stripped. If you can turn the auger by pushing on it with your foot and the second stage impeller balde doesn't turn the gear box is shot.
Be sure to disconnect the spark plug wire while messing with the front end of the blower.
I hope the shear pin is your problem and not the gear box.
Be sure to disconnect the spark plug wire while messing with the front end of the blower.
I hope the shear pin is your problem and not the gear box.
cheese
12-17-03, 08:18 PM
Good job Mike! Glad you got it going!
Illbreakit...let us know if you get the auger turning!
Illbreakit...let us know if you get the auger turning!
Illbreakit
12-26-03, 09:44 PM
My original notion or hope was the shear pin, but no such luck. After disassembling the auger's gear box the problem was clear. The central gear or "worm gear", according to the sears parts department, was shreaded. I'm not sure what material the gear was originally, cheese? I had barely used the snow blower, two or three seasons tops. I'm not so sure about craftsman power equipment. Anyway, thank you all for the words of advice, the part is on it's way as we speak.
thanks,
Illbreakit
thanks,
Illbreakit
cheese
12-27-03, 12:47 AM
lol...maybe it WAS made of cheese. Probably just cast soft metal. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes!
concrete art
12-30-03, 07:22 PM
I have a 5 hp Tecumseh engine on a Toro snow blower. I had the same problem; the engine would start hard and would not stay running. Thanks Cheese, your fix worked for me.
cheese
12-31-03, 12:20 AM
Hello Concrete art!
Great! Glad that you were able to get help from this forum!
Great! Glad that you were able to get help from this forum!
Illbreakit
01-25-04, 02:57 PM
Sorry for the late update. I've got the snowblower back together and all seems to be working well. Thanks again for the advice, I've been really impressed with this forum.
Thanks,
illbreakit
Thanks,
illbreakit
sberry27
01-25-04, 10:56 PM
I have ran across the same problem a couple of times too.
cheese
01-26-04, 12:06 AM
Thanks for the update! Now you can put that thing to work, lol...(is that a good thing??).
BLU
02-02-04, 06:12 AM
Cheese....you're the man! I had the same problem with my
Murray Snowthrower (Tecumseh 2 stroke, 4.5 hp). It would run
when primed past carb but not otherwise. Thanks for helping
so many of us with your know-how!
Murray Snowthrower (Tecumseh 2 stroke, 4.5 hp). It would run
when primed past carb but not otherwise. Thanks for helping
so many of us with your know-how!
cheese
02-03-04, 10:00 PM
Awesome! This has turned out to be a productive thread :D
Glad we were able to help!
Glad we were able to help!
polluter
05-26-04, 07:38 AM
I have a 5 hp Techumseh on a troybuilt roto tiller. It is prob 20 years old, but only gets used three or four hours a year, so I don't think it is worn out.
It starts and runs very well, but after about 10 mins hard work will burp and belch blue smoke, then clear off, then do it again in five mins. The dealer said the air filter was plugged, so I gave him my hard earned for a new one, but have the same prob.
I have taken off the little crankcase ventolator do-hickie and it looks OK, the spring valve is in place etc.
Any ideas?
Rod
It starts and runs very well, but after about 10 mins hard work will burp and belch blue smoke, then clear off, then do it again in five mins. The dealer said the air filter was plugged, so I gave him my hard earned for a new one, but have the same prob.
I have taken off the little crankcase ventolator do-hickie and it looks OK, the spring valve is in place etc.
Any ideas?
Rod
cheese
05-27-04, 01:58 AM
Hello Rod!
I saw the other thread you started about this before I saw this one. My reply, and other people's replies, are there.
I saw the other thread you started about this before I saw this one. My reply, and other people's replies, are there.
50021_poster
02-24-07, 11:58 AM
I had the same problem with my snowblower, start, run, die. I wish I would have looked here first. Took about 10 minutes to unclog the brass bolt fitting that holds the carb bowl on.
I used a very small sewing needle to clean out the small holes. The small hole in the threaded area is almost undetectable.
Thanks to other posters for saving me a $50 spot for sure.
I used a very small sewing needle to clean out the small holes. The small hole in the threaded area is almost undetectable.
Thanks to other posters for saving me a $50 spot for sure.