Wallpaper and Wallcoverings - do I really have to remove the glue?
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bj2jazz
12-10-03, 12:32 AM
Are there any situations that the glue does not have to be completely removed before repapering? Also, the best way to treat a small area of mold on the wall board.
The paper peeled off easily and completely so now all we need to do is prime and repaper. So we thought. Someone says that we can't/shouldn't prime over the glue. It should come off. Does it really need to come off? I steamed and some of it came off while other parts seem determined to stay on the wall then part of the wallboard is soaked. So no more steam. The fabric softener sounds like fun, the home store wants to sell me some adhesive remover and Christmas company is coming!! Someone else suggested mudding the entire wall, priming and then papering. The pressure's on.
The paper peeled off easily and completely so now all we need to do is prime and repaper. So we thought. Someone says that we can't/shouldn't prime over the glue. It should come off. Does it really need to come off? I steamed and some of it came off while other parts seem determined to stay on the wall then part of the wallboard is soaked. So no more steam. The fabric softener sounds like fun, the home store wants to sell me some adhesive remover and Christmas company is coming!! Someone else suggested mudding the entire wall, priming and then papering. The pressure's on.
prowallguy
12-10-03, 08:41 AM
If you are repapering, you can paper over the remaining glue residue. No reason to prime if the glue isn't removed. If the 1st paper came down easily, I assume it was primed good for the first hang. I would just hang over this substrate you have now.
As for the mold:
Is this your home, or are you doing a job for a client? If its the latter, remember that anything over 10sq. ft. of mold, and there is a problem down the road, (health issues, litigation, etc.), you could be held responsible. If it more than 10 sq. ft. I would recommend to the client that they need to find a mold specialist or talk to an industrial hygienist, or call their local health department as to what steps to take.
If its the former, and its your home, proceed with the mold removal at your own risk. If its less than 10 sq. ft., make sure the drywall is sound, not mushy. Find out how the mold got there. Check for water leaks, etc. The source must be fixed or the mold will return. You can wash the moldy areas with a bleach/water mix, then prime that area with a water/stain blocking primer.
Hope this helps
As for the mold:
Is this your home, or are you doing a job for a client? If its the latter, remember that anything over 10sq. ft. of mold, and there is a problem down the road, (health issues, litigation, etc.), you could be held responsible. If it more than 10 sq. ft. I would recommend to the client that they need to find a mold specialist or talk to an industrial hygienist, or call their local health department as to what steps to take.
If its the former, and its your home, proceed with the mold removal at your own risk. If its less than 10 sq. ft., make sure the drywall is sound, not mushy. Find out how the mold got there. Check for water leaks, etc. The source must be fixed or the mold will return. You can wash the moldy areas with a bleach/water mix, then prime that area with a water/stain blocking primer.
Hope this helps