Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - hot water radiator heat
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : hot water radiator heat
09-26-00, 06:30 PM
I recently installed baseboard in an addition. I have radiators through-out the house. What do I have to do to make the baseboard heat effective?
09-26-00, 07:20 PM
Hi dj:
The hydronic system experts are at www.heatinghelp.com (http://www.heatinghelp.com) They have a message board and also a bookshop. Thanks. John.
The hydronic system experts are at www.heatinghelp.com (http://www.heatinghelp.com) They have a message board and also a bookshop. Thanks. John.
09-27-00, 11:36 AM
DJAnderson:
Because the thermostat in your house will not give a very good indication of how hot or cold it is in the addition, I would install a second 120/24 volt transformer somewhere near your boiler and install a 24 volt thermostat and 24 volt zone valve in series with that transformer. The thermostat should be centrally located in the addition away from drafts or direct sunlight, and the zone valve should be in the most easy to get to space on the radiator train going to the addition.
You should have provided for a way of bleeding the air out of the radiators installed in that new addition.
Also, because there's no impediment to flow through your houses original radiators, the path through your house's original radiator lines would probably be shorter and offer less resistance than the path through the addition. You should install a gate valve somewhere on your house's original radiator train. The purpose of this gate valve will be to impede flow through the house's original radiators in order to induce more flow through the radiators in the addition.
Because the thermostat in your house will not give a very good indication of how hot or cold it is in the addition, I would install a second 120/24 volt transformer somewhere near your boiler and install a 24 volt thermostat and 24 volt zone valve in series with that transformer. The thermostat should be centrally located in the addition away from drafts or direct sunlight, and the zone valve should be in the most easy to get to space on the radiator train going to the addition.
You should have provided for a way of bleeding the air out of the radiators installed in that new addition.
Also, because there's no impediment to flow through your houses original radiators, the path through your house's original radiator lines would probably be shorter and offer less resistance than the path through the addition. You should install a gate valve somewhere on your house's original radiator train. The purpose of this gate valve will be to impede flow through the house's original radiators in order to induce more flow through the radiators in the addition.
09-27-00, 11:50 AM
djanderson:
Actually, the best way of doing it now would be to install an indoor/outdoor reset control to control the boiler water temperature depending on the outdoor temperature, and leave the circulating pump on continuously in the winter. Then instead of a gate valve in your main radiator train, install another 24 volt zone valve and connect your existing thermostat to this zone valve. For this system to work, there would have to be a "wild loop" where the water could flow if both zone valves were closed.
That way, the system raises and lowers the water temperature over the course of the winter, and there is always hot water flowing through that wild loop. This heat escapes into the house to assist in heating. When either thermostat calls for heat, it's respective zone valve opens, diverting some of the flow through the house or the addition until the thermostat is satisfied and opens again.
This is typical of the kind of system used in an apartment block so that each tenant can control the heat in his suite, and the wild loop would typically be through the radiators in the central hallways. Study your house's radiator train piping to see if it's possible to install a zone valve in the original house's radiator train in one spot where if that valve closes the water could still go through a more tortuous route to return to the pump. If not, you can simply install a wild loop with a gate valve on it in the boiler room. The purpose of the gate valve would be to pinch off flow through the wild loop so that water would preferably flow through the radiators.
Actually, the best way of doing it now would be to install an indoor/outdoor reset control to control the boiler water temperature depending on the outdoor temperature, and leave the circulating pump on continuously in the winter. Then instead of a gate valve in your main radiator train, install another 24 volt zone valve and connect your existing thermostat to this zone valve. For this system to work, there would have to be a "wild loop" where the water could flow if both zone valves were closed.
That way, the system raises and lowers the water temperature over the course of the winter, and there is always hot water flowing through that wild loop. This heat escapes into the house to assist in heating. When either thermostat calls for heat, it's respective zone valve opens, diverting some of the flow through the house or the addition until the thermostat is satisfied and opens again.
This is typical of the kind of system used in an apartment block so that each tenant can control the heat in his suite, and the wild loop would typically be through the radiators in the central hallways. Study your house's radiator train piping to see if it's possible to install a zone valve in the original house's radiator train in one spot where if that valve closes the water could still go through a more tortuous route to return to the pump. If not, you can simply install a wild loop with a gate valve on it in the boiler room. The purpose of the gate valve would be to pinch off flow through the wild loop so that water would preferably flow through the radiators.
11-21-01, 04:31 AM
Can anyone please explain to me how i can disconnect the factory security system on my 1992 acura legend. There is a problem with it, I need to take to the dealer, but I can't live a week with it going off every 1/2 hour.