Carpentry and Woodworking - build doors for cabinet
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nicb
11-18-03, 09:14 AM
Hi,
In the basement of our house we have a build in cabinet with a few shelves. I want to build some basic doors for the cabinet. I was thinking 2 doors that would open from the center. The open space is H:31.5" x W:28.5". It doesn't look like these are any standard size so, I will need to make them (this is for the basement so functional but no need for fancy).
I bought some oak 3/4" think particle board. My wife thinks the wood is too heavy and will pull off the cabinet. I think once the hinges are installed it should be no problem (I also bought the oak tape that you can apply to cut edges to give the wood a more natural look.)
2 questions:
1) Is the oak particle board a good idea, is there a better material?
2) Can I stain the oak edging tape (sorry, I don't know what is it officially called)?
Any recommendations would be helpful (i.e. tricks on cutting the wood, what to look out for, etc).
I am very much a novice at this but want to get better.
In the basement of our house we have a build in cabinet with a few shelves. I want to build some basic doors for the cabinet. I was thinking 2 doors that would open from the center. The open space is H:31.5" x W:28.5". It doesn't look like these are any standard size so, I will need to make them (this is for the basement so functional but no need for fancy).
I bought some oak 3/4" think particle board. My wife thinks the wood is too heavy and will pull off the cabinet. I think once the hinges are installed it should be no problem (I also bought the oak tape that you can apply to cut edges to give the wood a more natural look.)
2 questions:
1) Is the oak particle board a good idea, is there a better material?
2) Can I stain the oak edging tape (sorry, I don't know what is it officially called)?
Any recommendations would be helpful (i.e. tricks on cutting the wood, what to look out for, etc).
I am very much a novice at this but want to get better.
chfite
11-18-03, 05:08 PM
The particle board will be heavy, but should work fine in that application. Be sure to plan ahead on the fasteners to mount the hinges to the doors. Particle board does not hold fasteners well. Drill pilot holes and use coarse thread screws. Check the load rating of the hinges that you buy, you may need three on a door as large and heavy as that one. These doors will weigh close to twenty-five pounds each. Three-quarter inch particle board weighs about 100 pounds per sheet.
The tape that goes around the edge of the panel is generally called veneer tape. It is a good choice to hide the edge of particle board or plywood. It can be strained or painted. Use mineral spirits as a wipe on this and veneer surface of the before staining to be sure that nothing has gotten on the surface to spoil the stain. Contaminants will show up as splotches or sheen.
Cut the panels with a carbide blade on a skill saw, if that is what you have. Use a straight edge to guide the cut for better results.
Hope this helps.
The tape that goes around the edge of the panel is generally called veneer tape. It is a good choice to hide the edge of particle board or plywood. It can be strained or painted. Use mineral spirits as a wipe on this and veneer surface of the before staining to be sure that nothing has gotten on the surface to spoil the stain. Contaminants will show up as splotches or sheen.
Cut the panels with a carbide blade on a skill saw, if that is what you have. Use a straight edge to guide the cut for better results.
Hope this helps.
Furniture Bldr
11-23-03, 03:55 AM
Wiping mineral spirts on before applying a finish is a BAD IDEA. No offense Chris, but mineral spirts can actually react with the finish. It's one thing to thin out a product with mineral spirits, but we don't know what kind of finish he will be applying. If its' poly, he could probably get away with it, but your best bet is to wipe lacquer thinner on a piece, before you'd wipe mineral spirits. Depending upon what type of finish is used, it can actually cause "Fish Eyes". Fish Eyes= same thing as adding oil and water together.
chfite
11-23-03, 08:09 AM
Why might mineral spirits react with a finish? Which finishes are there that cause this reaction?
When mineral spirits evaporates, it leaves no residue. There should be nothing left to react with a subsequent application.
Mineral spirits is not the fire hazard that lacquer thinner is. Not that lacquer thinner will not reveal surface contamination the same as mineral spirits, folks are more likely to have mineral spirits on hand than to have lacquer thinner.
I know that surface contaminants, such as: silicone, cause fisheyes. That is why having a reliable method to detect contamination such as fingerprints, glues, and unremoved finish is valuable. If there are actually problems with using mineral spirits, I would like to know. I have been using it for many years and would appreciate being able to avoid problems.
When mineral spirits evaporates, it leaves no residue. There should be nothing left to react with a subsequent application.
Mineral spirits is not the fire hazard that lacquer thinner is. Not that lacquer thinner will not reveal surface contamination the same as mineral spirits, folks are more likely to have mineral spirits on hand than to have lacquer thinner.
I know that surface contaminants, such as: silicone, cause fisheyes. That is why having a reliable method to detect contamination such as fingerprints, glues, and unremoved finish is valuable. If there are actually problems with using mineral spirits, I would like to know. I have been using it for many years and would appreciate being able to avoid problems.
Furniture Bldr
11-23-03, 08:19 AM
I would have to look at the can to tell you the exact ingredients which cause problems with finishes. Lacquer is one of them.
Yes, you're right in the aspect of "Once it totally evaporates" Well, to let it evaporate properly, you need to let it sit for several hours. Lacquer thinner will never react with any type of finish.
Sure, not everyone is going to have it "On-hand" but that really isn't an excuse to save themselves from future problems. I don't know what your skill level is, and please heed that I in no way am trying to insult your know-how level. Not to toot my own horn; but coming from someone who has been in this trade for the past 14 years, It's better to do it right the first time, than to re-do it.
I'll be more than happy to find out what the exact names are in Mineral Spirts which can cause problems.
I spray a pre-catalyzed lacquer by ML Campbell. Only Custom Furniture shops are allowed to purchase it because of how toxic and flamable it is.
I'll be more than happy to help you out with any other questions you may have.
Have a great day!
Mike xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Yes, you're right in the aspect of "Once it totally evaporates" Well, to let it evaporate properly, you need to let it sit for several hours. Lacquer thinner will never react with any type of finish.
Sure, not everyone is going to have it "On-hand" but that really isn't an excuse to save themselves from future problems. I don't know what your skill level is, and please heed that I in no way am trying to insult your know-how level. Not to toot my own horn; but coming from someone who has been in this trade for the past 14 years, It's better to do it right the first time, than to re-do it.
I'll be more than happy to find out what the exact names are in Mineral Spirts which can cause problems.
I spray a pre-catalyzed lacquer by ML Campbell. Only Custom Furniture shops are allowed to purchase it because of how toxic and flamable it is.
I'll be more than happy to help you out with any other questions you may have.
Have a great day!
Mike xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
This thread has been edited.
Ads, advertisements, solicitations to buy or sell products, perform services etc of any type are not allowed within the forums.
Advertisement Policy and Disclosure Statements:
This forum topic nor any other forum topic on this web site was not intended to be used as a public bulletin board for the free posting of ads, solicitations and or advertisements of any kind.
Forums and there topics where intended to be used to exchange helpful problem solving methods and solutions to questions. Forums are not intended to be used as a public advertisement bulletin board.
Unsuitable and inappropriate postings not relevant to the intent of the do it yourself web site, threads containing ads, advertisements, solicitations or any such content deemed as such by the web sites host, administrators and or moderators of the forums will be edited and or deleted without prior notice.
Kindly direct your advertisements to our advertisement department using the "receive advertising info" link provided on the bottom of every web page.
To solicit a contractor or company to perform services, please use the: "Get Matched with PreScreened Local Contractors" pictorial link provided on the top right hand side of every web page.
Do not use email communications to send ads, advertisements or solicitations to any member or moderator without prior request of such. Our members email addresses and Personal {PM} Message services are not intended to be used for sending advertisements or solicitations of any type.
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Sincerely
Chris Fite
Moderator
DoItYourself.com