Flooring Tile - ceramic over linoleum with thinset
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foster21
11-10-03, 01:12 PM
What needs to be done to the linoleum to use thinset successfully to lay ceramic tile directly over it? I do not want to remove the linoleum, I do not want to put underlayment down if possible. Will scoreing the linoleum work? Whats the easiest way to do that?
ee3
11-10-03, 01:20 PM
Pray!
D Taylor
11-10-03, 02:05 PM
Linoleum has to come up, even if you were to put an underlayment down over top.
There is a certain amount of cushion in linoleum, plus no thinset will stick to the plastic top layer. Cut the linoleum into one foot strips and take the top layer off. You're then left with the paper layer. Once you get to this step, write another post and we'll guide you through it.
Get ready for using a little bit of elbow grease. Time spent now doing it correctly will save you the curses and regrets when your tile starts coming up.
There is a certain amount of cushion in linoleum, plus no thinset will stick to the plastic top layer. Cut the linoleum into one foot strips and take the top layer off. You're then left with the paper layer. Once you get to this step, write another post and we'll guide you through it.
Get ready for using a little bit of elbow grease. Time spent now doing it correctly will save you the curses and regrets when your tile starts coming up.
foster21
11-11-03, 06:54 AM
OK I remove the linoleum to the paper layer. The subfloor is firm, no bumps, and clean. Should I do any further prep of the paper layer i.e. remove it, before applying the thinset? Thanks for your comments!
D Taylor
11-11-03, 07:06 AM
Yes. In a small area, get really hot water and a touch of dish soap (the less the better) and soak the paper for about 15 minutes. You should be able to scrape it easily with a putty knife. If this works, go over the whole floor this way.
If it doesn't work, the glue is sovent-based and you'll have to buy an adhesive remover, such as BIX, Krud-Kutter or others, to work on the floor.
The idea is to get as much paper off as possible and then rinse it well afterwards, with either method. Let the floor dry a day or two before setting any tile on it.
After you have the paper off, you'll want to use screws to anchor the floor, if this hasn't been done already. Few vinyl installers screw their floors down..they use staples or nails, which will eventually work themselves free. Don't put the screws into the joists.
On top of the wood, you can now lay your underlayment (DITRA, etc.) and then your tile.
If you are going directly over the wood, make certain that your support is sufficient and you use a modified thinset. If you can, use DITRA over the plywood. It's thinner than CBU and has more benefits in the long run.
If it doesn't work, the glue is sovent-based and you'll have to buy an adhesive remover, such as BIX, Krud-Kutter or others, to work on the floor.
The idea is to get as much paper off as possible and then rinse it well afterwards, with either method. Let the floor dry a day or two before setting any tile on it.
After you have the paper off, you'll want to use screws to anchor the floor, if this hasn't been done already. Few vinyl installers screw their floors down..they use staples or nails, which will eventually work themselves free. Don't put the screws into the joists.
On top of the wood, you can now lay your underlayment (DITRA, etc.) and then your tile.
If you are going directly over the wood, make certain that your support is sufficient and you use a modified thinset. If you can, use DITRA over the plywood. It's thinner than CBU and has more benefits in the long run.