Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Using concrete pavers as raised deck surface

I'm considering the use of concrete pavers as a replacement for deck boards on a wood frame residential deck.

Other than the weight, what pitfalls or suggestions do you have about this?

Z

You would need 2 joists under each paver to support them. That's a lot of joists, a lot of money, and a lot of work. WHY?

For probably less money and certainly less work, you could use a composite decking.

And see, I didn't mention one word about the pavers probably being too much weight for the deck structure to support.

I don't like the look and feel of the composites.

I was expecting to have to use some sort of underlayment or metal mesh to keep the pavers from rocking. I am also building the deck from scratrch so structure and foundation will be factored into what I'm surfacing with.

I understand I can do it cheaper but given the size of the deck (abt 18X22) the materials cost shouldn't put me in the poor house.

What I don't understand is why the paver manufacturers seem to be ignoring the elevated patio as a residential option.

Oh' well

Thanks for the response. Let's see what happens over the next week or so.

Z

For the cost of pavers, you could likely have a monolith pour stamped with a pattern and have fewer maintenance problems.

Zeuster, I agree with you on composite decking. I wish I could endorse your paver decking option or instruct you on how to build it but I, too, have tried to find an alternative material for raised decks (to no avail). I live in a 30 year old deck house (3 sides of which have cedar (whew, pricey) decking 2' to 3' off the ground. I, like you, want the look of stone or pavers or something I needn't regularly restain or replace . One stone mason I consulted said I would need to drop the surface to ground level and start with a 6" base of concrete or fill a 3' high cement block bunker with gravel and then put a concrete pad on top of that. I know the substructure can be constructed in wood, but how? Please let me know if you solve your problem or find an alternative. Sorry I could'nt be of any help.

We did the 3 rows of block; filled it with gravel, and then poured 4 inches of concrete on top. We stained and stamped the concrete and then put fieldstones on the outside of the block and built up four fieldstone columns to attach a balustrade. You could easily do the pavers instead of the staining and stamping of the concrete. It was not difficult and so far we have done all of it on weekends.

Zeuster:
I don't see why you couldn't use the type pavers that would normally go over a sand base on grade; the only difference is that you probably would not fill the joints with sand. What you will have to deal with, though, is the weight of these pavers; they are going to be REALLY heavy and the deck structure will need to be designed for that weight. I suggest you buy a few hours of a structural engineers time to see what that stucture to support the pavers needs to be.

Bruce

Thanks for your thoughts folks. I have determined that the pavers can be used and the suppporting structure can be built from wood. Pavers look to weight around 21 to 25 lbs per sq.ft. so that's not to bad. However, maintenance of the wood understructure and keeping the pavers level are causing a lean toward a slab over some sort of fill.

Shifting gears to a brickfaced foundation wall filled with gravel topped by a stained concrete slab.

Have not given up on the pavers yet but, it looks like the concrete will be less work.

Thanks again.

Z

How far above grade will this "deck" be?

I understand your desire to get away from the maintenance of a wood deck -- they are a lot of ongoing work!

Putting a wood substructure under some type of concrete deck (whether that is a stamped slab, pavers, even ceramic tiles, etc.) probably isn't the best way to go. Eventually the wood is going to rot, and will have to be replaced.

A concrete block retaining wall, with proper footings under it, then filled with an aggregate base, then possibly a slab that you could install the pavers on would work. Going with a stamped slab (colored if you so desired) would eliminate the cost of the pavvers, but the slab would, of course, cost more than just a plain grey slab of concrete.

You're still in the planning stages -- explore the options and get estimates for each.

And check with your local bldg. dept. -- they can explain the required footing to you, and, depending on the height, explain what may be required as far as a railing.

Guess I didn't clearly state my new direction. It is, a retaining wall on a proper foundation backfilled with gravel or whatever code requires topped by a concrete slab, maybe stained maybe not...

Thanks

Z

That works, but how tall will the retaining wall be? Over 30" and you will probably need both a permit and railing! Check with your local bldg. dept. to be sure.