Carpentry and Woodworking - newb countersink + screw questions

I'm making a speaker box out of 3/4" mdf. I've read that using drywall screws would be good for this. Could someone tell me the difference between drywall screws and regular wood screws? Also, I've never made countersinks before. What exactly are these and how would I go about doing them?

Thanks a lot

Drwall screws have a coarser thread and the threaded portion is a uniform diameter. Regular wood screws are fatter near the head and taper narower at the point. Drywall screws are not generally as strong as regular screws, so you have to be careful not to break them when you tighten them. Also they're not recommended for anything structuarl that could be dangerous. There are screws available that are similar in shape to drywall screws, but are as strong as regular screws. The ones at home Depot go under the name "Grabber". Countersinking is nothing more than making the holes match the head of the screw so that when it is tightened the head of the screw ends up flush (or below) the surface of the material. To countersink you can either do it in two steps or one. In two steps you would first drill your holes and then switch to a countersink to form the bevel in the hole. For a one-step approach you pick up specialty bits that have a countersink built in so that when you drill the hole the opening gets the bevel cut at the same time. Hopes this helps.

Look at McFeeley's for a wide assortment of screw lengths and type. http://www.mcfeelys.com/
Drywall screws also have a particularlg shaped head ('bugle') to sink into the drywall without tearing the paper, they are not very good as wood fasteners because the bugle head tend to cause splits.

For MDF, predrill and don't use tapered screws at all.
Find a non-tapered screw or the last one you put in will probably split your mdf.

fred

You mean one where the head doesn't taper right?

Thanks for the info

The head can have a taper head if the countersink is made. The countersink will eliminate the outward pressure and splitting.
You don't want a typical wood screw, or any screw, which tapers point to head. mdf is notorious for splitting.

fred

Look at McFeeleys for the pocket hole screws. They are flat head, almost a cheesbox style, and with a very slight counterbore can be sunk below flush. They are designed to clamp MDF, particle, etc, and work very well.