Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Maximum Floor Height Transition?

I have a recent addition where the new section of the house is about 1/2 lower than the old due to new subflooring we had to put down. What is the max height difference that can be made up with a saddle, lets say I want to use 3/4 inch hardwood in both rooms, would the transition from one to another with 1/2 inch difference be that bad? Only option I have is to use Engineered Mirage flooring which from what I have read is a good product in the room that is higher than the other.

Any thoughts? Suggestions?

Ask first what is the thickness of the sub floor in the new addition. If it's 3/4", why not put down 1/2" over it and get a uniform surface?

Fred,

The addition does indeed have 3/4" plywood already but if we bumped it up another 1/2" plus a 3/4" hardwood on top of that we are going to run into issues with the patio door not opening and stuff. I may just go with the 3/8" Mirage engineered product to make it easier but I was wondering what type of transtion saddles were out there and how much height difference was too much. If I go 3/4" in the one room and 3/8 engineered in the other they should line up almost perfectly.

I understand the elevation problem and the need to door bottoms but you must deal with the 1/2" problem. Sooner or later it must be resolved. Floating floors must be installed on a flat surface, much flatter than now exists. Flatness tolerence is usually 1/8". A half inch difference will cause people to fall. It could be a "deal killer" when you try to sell. There are transition moldings that will accomodate a 1/2" difference, maximum, any more and they probably won't work. Allowing for enough "float" to accomodate flooring expansion will be a problem as well. Is your concern a patio door that is a metal slider?

Fred,

Thanks again for the responses, unfortunately the new patio door is an in swing french door so having the floor too high will not work. I understand the height difference will be too much, that is why I was thinking 3/4" real on one side of the doorway and 3/8" eng on top of the 1/2" subfloor on the other (which would allow the door to open no problem). This would allow me to get pretty close height wise from one room to the other. The only thing that is holding me back is some of the bad reviews that I have read about the engineered products, Mirage seems to be a decent quality but some of the hardwood installers I have talked to say to stay away from the engineered products completely. Obviously before I spend roughly $6.00 a SF to purchase the product I would like to know what I am getting myself into.

It's Your home so it's your call. I can only tell you what I would do in my home. I would trim the door and install a higher threshold if necessary. I would have no problem with hardwood or engineered wood. I have no children or large pets to complicate my choices either. Good luck with your project.

a few thoughts about engineered floors. on some applications the floors might made a slapping noise if you run across it, as it is not attached to the subfloor, except around the perimeter. i am not sure if you could refinish it in ten years because of the thickness. they do look nice though. good luck