Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - replacing boiler with hot air
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fstedy
09-26-03, 10:44 PM
Hi All
I need your expertise in this heating matter. My heating system is a boiler and tube radiators. I want to replace it with a high efficency hot air system that will incorporate central air into it.
I live in Southern New Jersey, in an older two story home 2400sq. ft. My neighbor whose house is similar but about 400 sq. ft. smaller installed a 100,000 btu furnace with central air in the basement and another 50,000 btu system in his atic. My heat bills for natural gas ran about $2200 last year (this doesn't include hot water and cooking uses). I have a setback therometer and the house is kept on the cool side. Any suggestions.
I need your expertise in this heating matter. My heating system is a boiler and tube radiators. I want to replace it with a high efficency hot air system that will incorporate central air into it.
I live in Southern New Jersey, in an older two story home 2400sq. ft. My neighbor whose house is similar but about 400 sq. ft. smaller installed a 100,000 btu furnace with central air in the basement and another 50,000 btu system in his atic. My heat bills for natural gas ran about $2200 last year (this doesn't include hot water and cooking uses). I have a setback therometer and the house is kept on the cool side. Any suggestions.
designer
09-27-03, 10:34 AM
Keep the radiators, they're great for comfort, and install a Weil McLain "Ultra" boiler which will really condense with radiators and give you 98% efficiency.
Install a Unico System hi-velocity AC system in the attic. The supply branches are only 3-1/2" OD and can be snaked and hidden in a closet, dead space, between studs, ect.
Make sure you have the house sized for heat loss/gain. When the boiler is sized, make sure the boiler is sized to the house and not to the existing radiator sizes.
Install a Unico System hi-velocity AC system in the attic. The supply branches are only 3-1/2" OD and can be snaked and hidden in a closet, dead space, between studs, ect.
Make sure you have the house sized for heat loss/gain. When the boiler is sized, make sure the boiler is sized to the house and not to the existing radiator sizes.
Ed Imeduc
09-27-03, 10:39 AM
Id say you have a lot of IF'S to look at here and think about.
For up there north Id say the hot water is best for you. How about a new boiler with a higher AFUE than what you have now. The moneys left over from it could go for more insulation and better windows in the home.
That other home you say 2000sq ft, and they put in 150k btu for heat. Sounds like he needs more insulation in the home there.
Or you can go to hot air with AC if need be On the AC a SEER about 12 for it is ok. but the furnace. Trane has one now that has a AFUE of 93. on it.
What was the neighbor's fuel cost???????????????
Id get 3 bids both ways and think about it.;) ED
For up there north Id say the hot water is best for you. How about a new boiler with a higher AFUE than what you have now. The moneys left over from it could go for more insulation and better windows in the home.
That other home you say 2000sq ft, and they put in 150k btu for heat. Sounds like he needs more insulation in the home there.
Or you can go to hot air with AC if need be On the AC a SEER about 12 for it is ok. but the furnace. Trane has one now that has a AFUE of 93. on it.
What was the neighbor's fuel cost???????????????
Id get 3 bids both ways and think about it.;) ED
KField
09-27-03, 03:38 PM
If you have room in the attic for the system, you can get a pretty good heat/cool job from above. It will eat up the best part of the attic but thats the breaks. Be sure to get low returns for heating season. That is the first thing contractors leave out to save money and problems. You probably only need a 40,000 btu system in the attic with 2 tons of cooling. BALLPARK. Then you will need a 40 or 50,000 btu system in the first floor with another 2 tons of cooling. The good part is that you will have good zone control for summer and winter. The bad part is that you are having 2 of everything installed. If it was my house, I'd keep the hot water heat and replace the boiler with something efficient. And then I'd put the 2 a/c systems in. But I don't usually charge myself for labor. That makes the difference in your consideration. I agree with Ed that you should get 3 or more estimates and at least as many ideas from contractors. Run them by us and we will give you our thoughts on the best and the worst.
Ken
Ken
nikokai2
10-06-03, 12:18 PM
LOW RETURNS what does this mean???
KField
10-06-03, 12:38 PM
Low returns means that in the winter when the unit runs for heat, the air returning to the furnace is drawn from LOW in the room. Near the floor, where cold air lays. If you draw return air from the top of the room, the cold air just lays on the floor and your feet freeze. It is more difficult to get the returns low, but if you don't do it you will not be comfortable in the winter.
Air conditioning can be accomplished from the ceiling because in summer cold air is a benefit and it can lay on the floor and it feels good. The hot air hugs the ceiling and goes right up into a HIGH return and gets cooled again.
I hope this makes sense to you.
Ken
Air conditioning can be accomplished from the ceiling because in summer cold air is a benefit and it can lay on the floor and it feels good. The hot air hugs the ceiling and goes right up into a HIGH return and gets cooled again.
I hope this makes sense to you.
Ken