Doors and Windows - Remove Aluminum Window

This is my first post but have been reading the site for a while, great info and look forward to lending my suggestions based on all the projects I have been doing over the past year to my first home.

I have a window 24" wide by 36" long in a bathroom that I am currently redoing. The house was built in '67 and the window is orginal aluminum single pane. The exterior is brick venner and I have taken all the drywall out from the inside window (part of a bigger project I am doing). I want to remove the window and either replace it with glass block or new double pane window. My question is how to get this window out without having to remove the brick on the outside. It seems the aluminum extends under the brick and is attached to a plywood sheet which is attahced to the wall studs.

Any suggestions how to get this window out? I am assuming the aluminum extending from the window is a nail fin.

Thanks in advance.

Ok.....here's my ditty on aluminum windows.

( AND ALSO MY 1000th POST :) )

Ignore the part about sheetrock since you've already removed it......I assume you're gonna tile up to the window since it's a bath?

If you have more questions after reading this, post back.

How to measure & replace aluminum windows




Generally, the frame of aluminum windows are not as “deep” as replacement vinyl windows, vinyl replacements being 3 ¼” deep and aluminum windows in the 2 ½” range.
Also, most often, sheetrock has been used as a “wrap” to go around the corners of the window opening from the wall inside. Builders like to do this to save the wood mouldings that are normally found around wood windows……a nickel here, a nickel there, and he has a vacation this winter in the Islands ! The replacement windows doesn’t need to go out any further than the old window did, so that means the extra depth of the frame must come to the inside, and I measure mine to sit ON TOP of the sheetrock. So measure the sheetrock opening at several places ( because they WILL vary….especially from window to window), then order the window EXACT ( AND that is important wording or the company you order from will automatically cut the size you furnish them) size that I measured for each opening. Then all you will need to do on install is a small bead of caulk between the frame and sheetrock. Often, the lower edges of the sheetrock are “soft” and crumbling where the aluminum windows have sweated over the years, and by placing the window back in over the sheetrock, you can often hide this damage and not have to repair it.

This same method applies even if you have a wood extension jamb and wood mouldings instead of sheetrock. The replacement window will sit on top the wood extension jambs inside due to the deeper frame of the vinyl window.


To Install:

Brick is the easiest to deal with. Aluminum window 99% of the time will have a nailing flange where the window was installed on the building sheathing, then brick or siding applied after that.

First, remove any moving sashes….there are various methods for that depending on the window and without seeing yours, I can’t tell you specifically HOW they come out, and SOMETIMES they aren’t meant to, so do whatever you have to including destroying part of the frame if need be to get them out. Then remove any fixed glass if you have that….generally held in with some type of vinyl, or metal bead, and usually some UnGodly sticky caulk….but get ALL the glass out for the next step.

Next, you “wreck” the frame out. If, by chance, you have some exterior mouldings that can be removed to access the nailing flange, thank your lucky stars, remove the moulding and the nails in the flange, and you can easily remove the frame. BUT most of the time, the brick or siding is butted right to the edge of the aluminum frame, and with out removing that brick/siding, you can’t access the flange. So take a small bar/screwdriver and start prying up the frame at some point….then stick a LARGE crowbar in and REALLY pry up…..use a hunk of scrap plywood to “pad” your bar and keep from damaging the sheetrock or brick you are prying against. Once you have the frame pried up enough, take a hacksaw or sawsall with metal cutting blade and saw thru the frame. Keep on working your way around the hole until you wreck the frame completely out.
Brick is easier because you have something solid to pry on……siding, you have to work from the inside, so be careful not to screw up your sheetrock or wood returns.

Once you have the hole opened, set your replacement in the opening. IF you measured right, the new window will sit right on top the sheetrock return. You can position the window anywhere in the opening ( from inside to outside ) that you want. I generally set mine out to the point of the old caulk line of the aluminum window……that SHOULD give you about an 1” or so of coverage on the sheetrock, and allow you to hide any damage on the edges where it used to meet the old window. The replacements come with screws, although most are 2”, and you may need to buy 3” for this type replacement. Use galvanized deck type screws if you buy them. There are 4 holed in the sides……2 on the up near the top of the inside sash track, and 2 down near the bottom of the outside one….some manufacturers use a cover/sash stop that you have to pop off to see the holes. Run your screws in these holes and just SNUG them….don’t tighten to much or you will pull the frame out of square.

The outer, low set of screws MAY not hit any wood, depending on where you set the window in the hole……that hole may line up with the gap between the brick and the sheathing. Sometimes you can angel the screw back enough to catch the studs, sometimes you have to get “creative” ……I run a screw down thru the sill in the corner on the inside track if I have to ….DO NOT run it in the side…….as the sash comes down, the “shoe” ( where the window pivot to flip out ) will hit the screw head and STOP DEAD…..and if you run it in enough to clear, you’ll warp the frame…….run the screw down in the sill, run it down flush or even sink it into the next layer of the multi layer vinyl and put a dab of silicone over the head.

Run a bead of caulk around the inside, IF you measured right and you’re done inside.

Outside:

The replacement will be slightly smaller than the old window……stuff ( but don’t PACK TIGHT ) fiberglass insulation around the vinyl frame. Then you will have to make up some moulding to take up the difference. Personally, I make a cover out of aluminum coil stock in the color to match the windows, but you have to have a sheet metal brake ( and the knowhow) to do this……this, BTW, is what separates the pros from the amateurs…the install itself is fairly straightforward, but the finish work is not something I can teach over the internet….sorry…..Maybe I’ll sell a video one day J

Andy, I DIDN'T read all that stuff, but congrats on # 1.000!!!!

charlestown --

WHAT ANDY SAID!!

If he didn't steer you wrong, I WILL!!

Thanks for the input.

Makes me a little nervous having to "wreck" the frame out of the wall. I am worried if I start the wrecking process and cant get it out then I am stuck with a wrecked window and having to hire someone to get the dang thing out. I guess in the back of my mind I was hoping for a more "for sure" method....

Does anyone have an opinion on what to put in that space; glass blocks or a vinyl window with a frost since it is a bathroom?

If you've removed the sheetrock, you have NOTHING to hurt. You can use the 2x4 or the brick to pry against.....the dang little thing ain't that strong !

I say "wreck" it out because it is nailed to the plywood sheathing on the outisde of the wood wall but under the brick.....You simply take a crowbar and pry it into the hole......I say "wreck" because when you get done, the frame is bent and useless except as scrap metal. You can't hardly get one out without a crowbar since you can't access the nails.....

A 2/0 - 3/0 window, probably a single hung. Like Andy said, the only way you are going to get it out is with a crowbar and collapse the frame in. Take the sash out, remove the stationary pane of glass, then, from the inside, use the crowbar to collapse the top down. That will start pulling the sides in. Once you have those three "wrecked", use the bar to lift the bottom up and out.

You are not going to get the window out in a usable condition -- it will be just the glass (which is trash), and scrap aluminum.

You DON'T want to get into trying to remove the brick veneer! That would probably lead to having to rebrick the entire side of the house, maybe more.

I just did the same thing yesterday. It worked fine.

First, I removed the window panes (double hung). To wreck out the aluminum frame I used a pry bar and a hack saw. Pry the middle of one side inwards toward the center of the window. Then, use the hack saw to cut through the frame. At this point, you can rip it out by hand.

The job can probably be done without a hack saw. However, using one seemed to minimize damage to the interior (plaster) and exterior (brick) of my house. Its a cleaner way to wreck out the window. Good Luck!

-Marcus

Yep....I generally use a sawsall with a metal cutting blade and do the same thing.....pry up or out one edge, saw it and that makes the rest of the frame easier to get out.

Charlestown, how did it go? I would be very interested in finding out how your project is going as I have similar projects of my own once I get past some foundation issues. And we're practically neighbors. I've already done a couple of window replacements here but they were in conjuction with a rework of a garage conversion so it was practically new construction for me.

Thanks,

Jester

I am changig my windows out to my 1980 home. Alum frames were nailed in with big nails. Kee in mindthat the top should not be nailed so it will be the easiest. I found I could put a lot of mussle on the bottom one and then the rest were easier. My frames broke at the corners so no hacksaw was needed. I have also used vice qrips and a come-a-long. It worked great on the two patio doors I replaced. Think you need to try all of these great ideas out until you find what works. Most of the time I order the same size window that I am replacing and replace the wood work around the inside. My 80' home will have new vinyl windows wood wraped sills and frames. I have replaced all the trim with white painted trim, so my windows will match. Only upscale homes are built like this in this area. My home is not upscale but it feels like it.

Window Replacemtent is DONE!!!

The window was a standard 2x3 so I went to HD and picked up a low e vinyl window new construction. I got my ever so useful crow bar and a hack saw and went to it. 30 mins later the window was out. The windows in my house are so cheaply put together it has really got me motivated to change out all my windows....1 down 12 more to go! Each piece of glass is held into place with a small plastic qtr rd. Pry the qtr rd off and the window just falls out. Really scary to think about the security problem.

Each side of the frame was nailed with 2p nails but the top and bottom was attached to the sides with a metal tab so I just pryed each side out individually. I cut the first side in half with the hacksaw which was very easy with the aliminum.

I bought the new construction window with the fins b/c the guy at HD told me the fins are easy to cut down. I got my tin spiners and just cut the top and sides down. The bottom fin I left in place and it went right into the previous fin spot. The little bit of side and top fins gave me some backing and additional insulation to apply the foam insulation. There were 2 screw holes already made and I drilled a couple more close to the bottom. Really very simple.

Window looks great. I am close to a highway and the sound is really reduced which is another great motivator for me to do the rest of the windows. I got a quote a while back on new windows and guy wanted $11K. I am thinking I can get them done myself for $3K....thats what DIY is all about...

Thanks for everyones input. This site is invaluable for a person doing things on his/her own without much experience. I find it is not so hard doing the work it is just knowing what NOT to do that is extremly helpful. Listening to other people with same skill level is perfect.

Great job charlestowm. they will make a greay difference in your home. I think most of the window companys say to not use the expanding foam. It can expand and deform the window. I buy lots of 40 year chaulk and the round formed foam rubber stuff for big gaps.:)

CT:

You're fortunate that the glass wasn't caulked in as well as the vinyl quarter round that held it. I've seen a lot of them that are caulked and they use some DANG sticky stuff that is really hard to release the glass.

To confirm what Michael said, be careful about foams in a can. The "Great Stuff" type is polyeurathane foam and expands WAY too much to use around doors/windows....plus it sets up rock hard.

I have used the latex type that is made for this purpose.....it stays soft and doesn't expand too much.

Glad the first one worked out for you.....

andy

Andy,

You just be careful with that Sawzall. You were lucky last time that it was only FINGERS!!

The rest of you -- Expanding foam will void the window mfgrs' warranty -- at least it will with every window mfgr. that I'm aware of.

Fiberglass, or non-expanding foam -- you are OK.

Thanks,

Once again this proves my point, it is not how to do the project it is what not to do that makes a quality job. This is the smallest window in my house so I will remember not to use the expandable foam.

I just got pricese from HD on the rest of the windows, does anyone recomend another window place/manuf. that I can purchase windows and install them myself?

charlestown,

Windows are sold "nationally" (names like Marvin, Certainteed, Alside, Simington, Anderson, etc., etc., etc.,) and there are brands that are only distributed regionally.

A store like HD or Lowes will carry 'national' brands -- they want a supplier who can fill all of their stores in all 50 states. Check with a local glass shop and you will get the line on some very good 'regional' brands as well.

COMPARE WARRANTIES! Also, compare warranty service. I don't care who they are, at some point EVERY window mfgr. is going to have a failure in a few of their windows. (Happens to the best of them.) Some companies will say "Shucks, one of our IG units failed -- let's get it fixed right now and we will have a happy customer". Another company is going to fight tooth and nail to keep from having to spend a few dollars to replace the IG unit.

Which company would you rather have to deal with??