Doors and Windows - basement vinyl replacement
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kappy
09-17-03, 04:52 AM
hi
Is there any site with detailed instructions on how to install
new basement windows, they are wood with steel frames cemented in.. do I chisel them out,, use a grinder, I am not sure
also when putting the new ones in,, do I calk them or cement them in again,, any help would be appreciated,, also what is a good brand window, side al, american craftsmen, anderson
thanks for any input
Is there any site with detailed instructions on how to install
new basement windows, they are wood with steel frames cemented in.. do I chisel them out,, use a grinder, I am not sure
also when putting the new ones in,, do I calk them or cement them in again,, any help would be appreciated,, also what is a good brand window, side al, american craftsmen, anderson
thanks for any input
lefty
09-17-03, 06:47 PM
Start with the brand. You mentioned Andersen, Alside and Amer. Craftsmen. Andersen is an excellent choice, Alside is a good choice, and (at least in my opinion) Amer. Craftsmen would be your last choice. There are hundreds of other mfgrs out there that might be worth a look as well.
Take the wood out (Sawzall), and leave the steel in. Order the new windows to fit that opening, with the outside trim attached the the frame.Measure the opening of the steel frame, deduct 1/2" side-to-side and 1/4" top to bottom. (New window will sit fully on the sill.) Predrill holes through the jambs of the vinyl windows into the steel and use screws to secure your new windows to the steel frame. Use a sealant (like Sikaflex or Vulkem 116) to seal the outside window trim to the steel frame, the 100% silicon to dress up the joint at the edge of the trim.
Take the wood out (Sawzall), and leave the steel in. Order the new windows to fit that opening, with the outside trim attached the the frame.Measure the opening of the steel frame, deduct 1/2" side-to-side and 1/4" top to bottom. (New window will sit fully on the sill.) Predrill holes through the jambs of the vinyl windows into the steel and use screws to secure your new windows to the steel frame. Use a sealant (like Sikaflex or Vulkem 116) to seal the outside window trim to the steel frame, the 100% silicon to dress up the joint at the edge of the trim.
Tn...Andy
09-18-03, 03:53 PM
Are these the small, like 32 wide and about 16-18 tall, windows you typically see up high in the basement wall ??
kappy
09-19-03, 04:27 AM
yes they are andy, thanks for the reply
Tn...Andy
09-19-03, 04:48 AM
Then I do it a little different than Lefty does.....I pull the whole frame all the way back to the cinderblock or concrete wall.
They have a fairly small flange on the frame that just sticks in the wall and aren't TOO bad to get out. Take the sash out first, then cut the frame at some point and start prying with a big crowbar.
You basically just "wreck" the frame out but it will come. Then I install a new vinyl replacement that I've previously measured back tight to the wall. I use a couple of Tappcon concrete screws in the lower holes and run a couple of regular screws that come with the new window UP into the wood mud sill that is usually over the top of the old window. By measuring tight to the opening, I can usually get by with just a caulk joint inside and out where the window meets the wall.
Caution.......measure EACH opening, because I find they will vary 1/2" or more on them a lot of times.....You may have a slightly different size for each hole, which is WHY I use a vinyl replacement they will build custom.
They have a fairly small flange on the frame that just sticks in the wall and aren't TOO bad to get out. Take the sash out first, then cut the frame at some point and start prying with a big crowbar.
You basically just "wreck" the frame out but it will come. Then I install a new vinyl replacement that I've previously measured back tight to the wall. I use a couple of Tappcon concrete screws in the lower holes and run a couple of regular screws that come with the new window UP into the wood mud sill that is usually over the top of the old window. By measuring tight to the opening, I can usually get by with just a caulk joint inside and out where the window meets the wall.
Caution.......measure EACH opening, because I find they will vary 1/2" or more on them a lot of times.....You may have a slightly different size for each hole, which is WHY I use a vinyl replacement they will build custom.
brickeyee
09-19-03, 02:20 PM
The flanges embedded in the brick are usually only on the sides of the window. Cut the steel frame at the middle of the top and pry it down. The sides will pivot at the bottom and the flanges will come out.
I prefer polyurethane caulk for windows monted in masonry openings.
I prefer polyurethane caulk for windows monted in masonry openings.
kappy
09-19-03, 03:55 PM
all good replys thanks again
one more question when i measure for the new windows
should that be right to the cement meaning outside the steel frame.in other words the whole opening that was cut thru the blocks many years ago
one more question when i measure for the new windows
should that be right to the cement meaning outside the steel frame.in other words the whole opening that was cut thru the blocks many years ago
Tn...Andy
09-19-03, 04:18 PM
yep....the whole opening......from block to block on the sides and block to wood on the top......less maybe 1/8" so you don't have to "cram" it in...then caulk that gap.
lefty
09-19-03, 07:36 PM
Yes, Andy and I, at times, DO tend to do things a bit differently.
My reasoning for leaving the steel frames in place is that they are going to be flat, giving you a flat surface to seal the new windows to. Like brickeye said, use a SEALANT (not just 100% silicon) -- you need something that is going to stick to both masonary and vinyl. (The Vulkem, Sikaflex, etc. that I mentioned)
Be aware that masonary is NOT waterproof -- moisture will leak through it!!
If you opt to pull the steel frames, order your new windows with the exterior trim molded to the window. Measure the masonary opening, deduct 1/4" from the height and 1/2" from the width. The new window will slip into the hole, you will use the sealant between the exterior trim and the masonary wall, THEN use 100% silicon around the edge of the trim to finish that edge.
My reasoning for leaving the steel frames in place is that they are going to be flat, giving you a flat surface to seal the new windows to. Like brickeye said, use a SEALANT (not just 100% silicon) -- you need something that is going to stick to both masonary and vinyl. (The Vulkem, Sikaflex, etc. that I mentioned)
Be aware that masonary is NOT waterproof -- moisture will leak through it!!
If you opt to pull the steel frames, order your new windows with the exterior trim molded to the window. Measure the masonary opening, deduct 1/4" from the height and 1/2" from the width. The new window will slip into the hole, you will use the sealant between the exterior trim and the masonary wall, THEN use 100% silicon around the edge of the trim to finish that edge.
kappy
09-20-03, 05:16 PM
well people
The steel frames ended up being all wood frames
which was good i guess,, i measured the opening to 32 x 14.5 inches.. I bought some american standard windows actual 31.75 x14.75 i toor all the wood old wood out.. and took some masonary with it.. these are a vinyl windows 60.00 at home depot.
instructions said to build a wood frame around the window,, that would have made it way to big.. talked to a friend and I ended up putting the window in as is no screws or anything I had to build the cement up around the window,, because alot broke off. and then I siliconed the rest whewwwww took me about 3 hours for one window,, tell yah what I can't complain. it is in tight and looks good. thansk for all the help,,one more ? why would they sell the windows at 32 x 15 and then you have to put wood around it, you would think those dimensions should be with the wood al ready there. thanks for all the help,, all these good tips got me threw it.. great site.. now if they had a spell check,, i could cut my typing in half LOL thanks again all..
I think I done good
The steel frames ended up being all wood frames
which was good i guess,, i measured the opening to 32 x 14.5 inches.. I bought some american standard windows actual 31.75 x14.75 i toor all the wood old wood out.. and took some masonary with it.. these are a vinyl windows 60.00 at home depot.
instructions said to build a wood frame around the window,, that would have made it way to big.. talked to a friend and I ended up putting the window in as is no screws or anything I had to build the cement up around the window,, because alot broke off. and then I siliconed the rest whewwwww took me about 3 hours for one window,, tell yah what I can't complain. it is in tight and looks good. thansk for all the help,,one more ? why would they sell the windows at 32 x 15 and then you have to put wood around it, you would think those dimensions should be with the wood al ready there. thanks for all the help,, all these good tips got me threw it.. great site.. now if they had a spell check,, i could cut my typing in half LOL thanks again all..
I think I done good