Doors and Windows - Replacing interior doors....
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bob md
09-16-03, 01:06 PM
When we first bought our house many months ago, I posted a question here about replacing my door frames & doors. Unfortunately the frames are metal and the wood floor was built around them. Many replied suggesting I leave them as is - it would be a difficult task at best. After examing how they are attached (flanges) in a basement door frame, I am now agreeing with that assessment. In addition to the removal problems, the walls are all plaster & after fixing & plastering for painting, I now have a new found respect for plasterers.
So what I'm not thinking is replacing just the door - and painting the frames (for the umpteenth time) to brighten them up. I've never replaced an interior door & it doesn't look too dificult, but I thought I'd ask for tips before beginning this weekend - I've received invaluable assistance here before, I'm sure there are pitfalls I can avoid.
Couple of points:
1. Several of the current doors don't shut properly, they've warped & will be replaced (chewed up so I'd like something better looking. I assume that a metal frame stays pretty true, but is that correct?
2. The frames have built in hinges. This means that I have to use the existing (3 1/2") hinges, at least on the frame side. So I'll have to consider their position before hinging the door side.
Are there particular steps in replacing a door (keeping in mind I have to use existing hinge placment)? What should the clearance be between the frame & door? I've no carpet (hardwood floors), so I can get pretty low. I guess the biggest issue is cutting the door width to trip. I imagine I should check the square of the existing frames, assuming they are reasonably square, it probably should be a straight forward task.
Thanks in advance!
Bob
So what I'm not thinking is replacing just the door - and painting the frames (for the umpteenth time) to brighten them up. I've never replaced an interior door & it doesn't look too dificult, but I thought I'd ask for tips before beginning this weekend - I've received invaluable assistance here before, I'm sure there are pitfalls I can avoid.
Couple of points:
1. Several of the current doors don't shut properly, they've warped & will be replaced (chewed up so I'd like something better looking. I assume that a metal frame stays pretty true, but is that correct?
2. The frames have built in hinges. This means that I have to use the existing (3 1/2") hinges, at least on the frame side. So I'll have to consider their position before hinging the door side.
Are there particular steps in replacing a door (keeping in mind I have to use existing hinge placment)? What should the clearance be between the frame & door? I've no carpet (hardwood floors), so I can get pretty low. I guess the biggest issue is cutting the door width to trip. I imagine I should check the square of the existing frames, assuming they are reasonably square, it probably should be a straight forward task.
Thanks in advance!
Bob
Tn...Andy
09-16-03, 06:24 PM
Couple of points:
1. Several of the current doors don't shut properly, they've warped & will be replaced (chewed up so I'd like something better looking. I assume that a metal frame stays pretty true, but is that correct?
Probably true, but you ought to check with framing square or measure diagonals.
2. The frames have built in hinges. This means that I have to use the existing (3 1/2") hinges, at least on the frame side. So I'll have to consider their position before hinging the door side.
Take the existing door off. Set on edge with the hinge side up and place the new door right beside it and you can transfer the hinge position
Are there particular steps in replacing a door (keeping in mind I have to use existing hinge placment)? What should the clearance be between the frame & door? I've no carpet (hardwood floors), so I can get pretty low. I guess the biggest issue is cutting the door width to trip. I imagine I should check the square of the existing frames, assuming they are reasonably square, it probably should be a straight forward task.
When I hang a new door, I use 1/8" to 3/16" clearance on top and knob side.....the hinges control that side.
If you have a forced air system, don't get the bottom "too" tight or you'll decrease the efficiency of your system if the air can't get back to the return when the doors are closed.
They make fancy jig setups for drilling the lockset, but I've always just used a 2 1/8" hole saw for the main lockset and a 7/8" spade bit for the striker bolt. The foldout drill patterns that come with locksets sometimes aren't that great, so I just measure with a ruler for the backset to drill.
1. Several of the current doors don't shut properly, they've warped & will be replaced (chewed up so I'd like something better looking. I assume that a metal frame stays pretty true, but is that correct?
Probably true, but you ought to check with framing square or measure diagonals.
2. The frames have built in hinges. This means that I have to use the existing (3 1/2") hinges, at least on the frame side. So I'll have to consider their position before hinging the door side.
Take the existing door off. Set on edge with the hinge side up and place the new door right beside it and you can transfer the hinge position
Are there particular steps in replacing a door (keeping in mind I have to use existing hinge placment)? What should the clearance be between the frame & door? I've no carpet (hardwood floors), so I can get pretty low. I guess the biggest issue is cutting the door width to trip. I imagine I should check the square of the existing frames, assuming they are reasonably square, it probably should be a straight forward task.
When I hang a new door, I use 1/8" to 3/16" clearance on top and knob side.....the hinges control that side.
If you have a forced air system, don't get the bottom "too" tight or you'll decrease the efficiency of your system if the air can't get back to the return when the doors are closed.
They make fancy jig setups for drilling the lockset, but I've always just used a 2 1/8" hole saw for the main lockset and a 7/8" spade bit for the striker bolt. The foldout drill patterns that come with locksets sometimes aren't that great, so I just measure with a ruler for the backset to drill.
Woodbutcher
09-16-03, 06:42 PM
On your new door decide what is the top of the door. Example on a six panel door the small panels go to the top. On a slab door the top may be marked if it isn’t then it will make no difference.
I have hung about 100 doors as a repair not construction. I will try to help you as best as I can.
With your old door in place check the fit. Most fits are OK. Fit is the reveal on the top bottom and sides of the door. With the old door still in place mark it top and back. The back is the side with the hinge pins. Mark the new door top and back this is for your reference it is very easy to get turned around doing this. Pull the pins on the old door and remove all the hardware including the hinge leafs. Do not remove hinge leafs on the door jamb. Measure the old door and cut the new one at the bottom to that length be careful not to splinter the new door, score the door or clamp a piece of scrap wood on the side where the saw blade leaves the wood.
Set the old door on the side with the hinge mortise up. Line up the new door at the top of the old one. The back of one should be against the front of the other. With a combo square scribe the mortise of the old door to the new door. Now take one of the hinge leafs and trace the hinge between the mortise lines you just drew remember the pins on the hinge go to the back of the door. The hinge leaf is probably marked on the back side from paint or varnish, use this line to guide you when tracing the hinge. An interior door is 1 3/8”The hinge will set about 1 1/4” across the door. Use a router to cut out the mortise if you use a chisel be careful cut only across the grain of the door style or you will split it.
Install the leafs on the new door with only one screw on each leaf make sure to drill a pilot hole for the screw or you WILL SPLIT the door. If the door has 3 hinges , leave the middle one off until you fit the door.
Place the new door in the jamb put the top pin in first then the bottom pin, you may have to adjust the bottom leaf a little tap it up or down to make it fit. That’s why I use only one screw at first. With both pins installed, drill your pilot holes and put in the rest of screws in the top and bottom hinges.
Put a screw on the front of the door where the knob will go, you need the screw to pull the door closed so you can mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the strike plate off the door jamb. With a pencil mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the door and plane down to the line, take your time. You may have to mark the door 2 or 3 times to get the fit.
With a pencil, mark on the back side door casing, the center of the hole located on the door jamb used for the door lock Close the door and transfer the mark to the door. With a combo square use that mark to scribe a line on both sides of door about 3” long and across the style.
Now find the back set of the lock you are using. A new lock will tell you, if you use the old lock, measure the old door from the edge to the center of the hole. 2 3/8” and 2 3/4 are common sizes. Measure also the size of the hole you will need 2 1/8’’is common.
If the back set is 2 3/8. On the line you drew on the door make a mark 2 3/8 on each side of the door. If the hole is 2 1/8, use a 2 1/8 hole saw, cut half way through the door and finish the cut from the other side do not plunge straight through you will splinter the door. Mark the center of style and drill a hole to fit the door latch use a small as possible hole to fit the latch you don’t have much room to spare. Some latches need to be mortised to fit if this is the case put the latch in the hole and trace the face of it then remove the needed amount of wood and install it. Remember to drill pilot holes. Install the lockset and the third hinge if needed. Now wasn’t that easy?
Good Luck, Woodbutcher
I have hung about 100 doors as a repair not construction. I will try to help you as best as I can.
With your old door in place check the fit. Most fits are OK. Fit is the reveal on the top bottom and sides of the door. With the old door still in place mark it top and back. The back is the side with the hinge pins. Mark the new door top and back this is for your reference it is very easy to get turned around doing this. Pull the pins on the old door and remove all the hardware including the hinge leafs. Do not remove hinge leafs on the door jamb. Measure the old door and cut the new one at the bottom to that length be careful not to splinter the new door, score the door or clamp a piece of scrap wood on the side where the saw blade leaves the wood.
Set the old door on the side with the hinge mortise up. Line up the new door at the top of the old one. The back of one should be against the front of the other. With a combo square scribe the mortise of the old door to the new door. Now take one of the hinge leafs and trace the hinge between the mortise lines you just drew remember the pins on the hinge go to the back of the door. The hinge leaf is probably marked on the back side from paint or varnish, use this line to guide you when tracing the hinge. An interior door is 1 3/8”The hinge will set about 1 1/4” across the door. Use a router to cut out the mortise if you use a chisel be careful cut only across the grain of the door style or you will split it.
Install the leafs on the new door with only one screw on each leaf make sure to drill a pilot hole for the screw or you WILL SPLIT the door. If the door has 3 hinges , leave the middle one off until you fit the door.
Place the new door in the jamb put the top pin in first then the bottom pin, you may have to adjust the bottom leaf a little tap it up or down to make it fit. That’s why I use only one screw at first. With both pins installed, drill your pilot holes and put in the rest of screws in the top and bottom hinges.
Put a screw on the front of the door where the knob will go, you need the screw to pull the door closed so you can mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the strike plate off the door jamb. With a pencil mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the door and plane down to the line, take your time. You may have to mark the door 2 or 3 times to get the fit.
With a pencil, mark on the back side door casing, the center of the hole located on the door jamb used for the door lock Close the door and transfer the mark to the door. With a combo square use that mark to scribe a line on both sides of door about 3” long and across the style.
Now find the back set of the lock you are using. A new lock will tell you, if you use the old lock, measure the old door from the edge to the center of the hole. 2 3/8” and 2 3/4 are common sizes. Measure also the size of the hole you will need 2 1/8’’is common.
If the back set is 2 3/8. On the line you drew on the door make a mark 2 3/8 on each side of the door. If the hole is 2 1/8, use a 2 1/8 hole saw, cut half way through the door and finish the cut from the other side do not plunge straight through you will splinter the door. Mark the center of style and drill a hole to fit the door latch use a small as possible hole to fit the latch you don’t have much room to spare. Some latches need to be mortised to fit if this is the case put the latch in the hole and trace the face of it then remove the needed amount of wood and install it. Remember to drill pilot holes. Install the lockset and the third hinge if needed. Now wasn’t that easy?
Good Luck, Woodbutcher
bob md
09-17-03, 07:52 AM
Hey Gents - Great info, this forum is the best! I'll be doing at least 7 doors, so I may buy a template, we'll see. Thanks again!
Bob
Bob
lefty
09-18-03, 11:11 PM
7 doors??
Invest the $10 in a VA hinge jig and $20 in a carbide router bit and guide set. The key is to get the hinges to match the existing EXACTLY!!! You have some play at the top and bottom of the door. The most critical measurement is BETWEEN the hinges (tolerances like 1/128" or 1/64"), then use a chisel or razor knife to "adjust" them.
Invest the $10 in a VA hinge jig and $20 in a carbide router bit and guide set. The key is to get the hinges to match the existing EXACTLY!!! You have some play at the top and bottom of the door. The most critical measurement is BETWEEN the hinges (tolerances like 1/128" or 1/64"), then use a chisel or razor knife to "adjust" them.