Doors and Windows - Patio door
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slab44
08-31-03, 11:22 AM
I think it's easier to buy a car than to select a door. I'm looking for input from anyone with experience using these products or suggestions on how to decide on type of patio door to install.
2 local dealers are backed by all professional desingations, such as NARI, BBB, MBA, energy star, etc. They each say their product is the best. 1 door being pushed is by Magna. The sales pitch & product seem good but I've never heard of this name. Should I be concerned if the company offering it has a good reputation? Another company is promoting one by Energy Wall. Again a name I never hear in advertisments. This one seems equally as nice but for twice the cost of the Magna.
2 others promoted by other dealers include Comfort Line and Great Lakes Windows. A home supply place I checked out offers both Anderson & Marvin. Getting estimates only confused me more on what type I should get. I live in the Midwest. The door will replace a kitchen window on the north. What's best, all vinyl, fiberglass reinforced, vinyl and wood clad, or all wood? I'm not looking for the most expensive just something very dependable worth the money I spend on it.
2 local dealers are backed by all professional desingations, such as NARI, BBB, MBA, energy star, etc. They each say their product is the best. 1 door being pushed is by Magna. The sales pitch & product seem good but I've never heard of this name. Should I be concerned if the company offering it has a good reputation? Another company is promoting one by Energy Wall. Again a name I never hear in advertisments. This one seems equally as nice but for twice the cost of the Magna.
2 others promoted by other dealers include Comfort Line and Great Lakes Windows. A home supply place I checked out offers both Anderson & Marvin. Getting estimates only confused me more on what type I should get. I live in the Midwest. The door will replace a kitchen window on the north. What's best, all vinyl, fiberglass reinforced, vinyl and wood clad, or all wood? I'm not looking for the most expensive just something very dependable worth the money I spend on it.
Tn...Andy
09-01-03, 04:55 AM
"I think it's easier to buy a car than to select a door"
I dunno...I'd rather take a beating with a stick as to deal with a bunch of car salesmen :)
Anyhow, what's "best" is what works in your situation. The material ( vinyl, wood, etc) from the standpoint of what look you want, with the exception that I would NOT get a wood outside door if it will be exposed to the weather much.....in other words, you don't have an extension porch cover or such to protect it.....get vinyl or aluminum clad wood otherwise.....
Basically, you can break 'em down in the price range as far as I'm concerned. This would be door only.....labor to install any of them should be the same.....and that labor ought to run in the $200-300 range if you already have a door of the same size there.
The "cheapie" doors run in the $350-$450 range.....for this you get a basic vinyl slider. If going vinyl, I'd get on that the frame is already assembled and welded.....the kind that screw together on vinyl doors are the lower end IMHO.
For $600-800, you get the "mid range" doors. This will be your better vinyl, ( better hardware, LowE glass, etc), your wood clad with vinyl ( Andersen's slider), or aluminum clad wood sliders.
When you get in the $1200+ range, you get things like Andersen's French wood door, much more inside wood, higher grade hardware, but probably not worth the money ( I put one in my house and can say this :) ........but it glides like a dream )
I dunno...I'd rather take a beating with a stick as to deal with a bunch of car salesmen :)
Anyhow, what's "best" is what works in your situation. The material ( vinyl, wood, etc) from the standpoint of what look you want, with the exception that I would NOT get a wood outside door if it will be exposed to the weather much.....in other words, you don't have an extension porch cover or such to protect it.....get vinyl or aluminum clad wood otherwise.....
Basically, you can break 'em down in the price range as far as I'm concerned. This would be door only.....labor to install any of them should be the same.....and that labor ought to run in the $200-300 range if you already have a door of the same size there.
The "cheapie" doors run in the $350-$450 range.....for this you get a basic vinyl slider. If going vinyl, I'd get on that the frame is already assembled and welded.....the kind that screw together on vinyl doors are the lower end IMHO.
For $600-800, you get the "mid range" doors. This will be your better vinyl, ( better hardware, LowE glass, etc), your wood clad with vinyl ( Andersen's slider), or aluminum clad wood sliders.
When you get in the $1200+ range, you get things like Andersen's French wood door, much more inside wood, higher grade hardware, but probably not worth the money ( I put one in my house and can say this :) ........but it glides like a dream )
slab44
09-01-03, 09:09 AM
Based on your estimates, I think I should rule out the door estimate that was $4,567. Either I'm being taken advantage of or this door won't recoup its value for a very long time. This included so called sales & posting a sign discount, the door & installation. The other 2 are in the $2,100 to $2,330. range. Which is closer to your thoughts and the home supply place even closer. I have yet to have an installer quote me a price on that one.
Your right, I don't want to go with wood on the outside.
Your right, I don't want to go with wood on the outside.
Tn...Andy
09-01-03, 05:29 PM
Do you have a sliding door of the same size in your house now that your are replacing ??
And the "sign" discount is one of many clear signals that you should send the "tinman" packing.......fake discounts are just one of many tricks.
And the "sign" discount is one of many clear signals that you should send the "tinman" packing.......fake discounts are just one of many tricks.
slab44
09-02-03, 01:01 AM
I currently have a window where the door will go. The window is the same width as the door will be. I'll be opening up the lower wall to disconnect the electrical outlet when I'm closer to installation time. From all accounts and the size of my window, I should have a good header in place.