Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Storeing gasoline engines
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JimSummer
08-15-03, 06:09 AM
What is the best procedure for storing gasoline engines over the winter on devices such as lawnmowers, weed cutters, garden tillers, blowers, etc. I have read its best to run all the gasoline in the tank before putting away, and I have also read to fill the tank before putting away for the several months in which they will not be used. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
Joe_F
08-15-03, 09:50 AM
I store mine dry. Leaving fuel in there untreated can turn to varnish and cause problems in the spring.
Tecumseh makes a great stabilizer. Any small engine shop should have it. Works well.
Tecumseh makes a great stabilizer. Any small engine shop should have it. Works well.
JimSummer
08-15-03, 11:00 AM
Thanks for your help, Joe. I think the dry storage makes the more logical way to go.
Sharp Advice
08-15-03, 09:46 PM
Hello: Jim
Storing engines dry of fuel is one method. But there is also another based on conventional wisdom, usage, temperatures, conditions and storage locations, etc.
Allowing fuel to remain in the tank for extended periods of time, it is best the top off the tank to avoid moisture from forming in the tank. Temperature changes, even slightly, can cause moisture to buildup on the walls of a tank and drain into the fuel.
Therefore, maintaining a full tank helps to avoid that. Helps but does not insure. Adding a fuel stabilizer also helps.
Best bet is to run the engine as often as is possible. Once fuel is drained out of a two cycle engines carb, the diaphragm is likely to dry out.
Once this happens, it may not and or is very likely to not become serviceable again. A carb rebuild to replace the part and clean out any fuel left in the passages. Running an engine until it stalls and dies does not insure fuel will not be left in the jets, passages and on the diaphragm.
Regards & Good Luck.
Small Engine Forum Moderator. "Accurate Power Equipment." Small Engine Diagnostics Services & Repair.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Proficient Services....:D
Storing engines dry of fuel is one method. But there is also another based on conventional wisdom, usage, temperatures, conditions and storage locations, etc.
Allowing fuel to remain in the tank for extended periods of time, it is best the top off the tank to avoid moisture from forming in the tank. Temperature changes, even slightly, can cause moisture to buildup on the walls of a tank and drain into the fuel.
Therefore, maintaining a full tank helps to avoid that. Helps but does not insure. Adding a fuel stabilizer also helps.
Best bet is to run the engine as often as is possible. Once fuel is drained out of a two cycle engines carb, the diaphragm is likely to dry out.
Once this happens, it may not and or is very likely to not become serviceable again. A carb rebuild to replace the part and clean out any fuel left in the passages. Running an engine until it stalls and dies does not insure fuel will not be left in the jets, passages and on the diaphragm.
Regards & Good Luck.
Small Engine Forum Moderator. "Accurate Power Equipment." Small Engine Diagnostics Services & Repair.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Proficient Services....:D
cheese
08-16-03, 01:09 AM
Hello Jim!
I agree with the above postings. I also want to add that running one dry will usually suck the last pieces of trash in the tank into the carb. If there is enough trash, or large enough pieces, you will have carb trouble in the spring when you try to start it again.
There is no safe bet, or sure fire way to prevent problems, but taking the time to crank everything up and run it for a few minutes every 3 or 4 weeks seems to work best in most cases. This keeps the battery charged on electric start equipment, keeps the throttle cable from sticking, carb from sticking, and the moving parts from sticking. Store the equipment out of direct sunlight and in a dry place. If freezing temps are expected, remove the battery and store it in a place where temps will be above freezing. Make sure to drain all water from pumps and pressure washers before storing.
Hope this helps.
I agree with the above postings. I also want to add that running one dry will usually suck the last pieces of trash in the tank into the carb. If there is enough trash, or large enough pieces, you will have carb trouble in the spring when you try to start it again.
There is no safe bet, or sure fire way to prevent problems, but taking the time to crank everything up and run it for a few minutes every 3 or 4 weeks seems to work best in most cases. This keeps the battery charged on electric start equipment, keeps the throttle cable from sticking, carb from sticking, and the moving parts from sticking. Store the equipment out of direct sunlight and in a dry place. If freezing temps are expected, remove the battery and store it in a place where temps will be above freezing. Make sure to drain all water from pumps and pressure washers before storing.
Hope this helps.