Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - laminate where there was ceramic

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cncgeek
07-15-03, 03:57 PM
I'm replacing a 7 year-old ceramic floor with a laminate tile floor (which I'm told is just like engineered wood flooring except there's a 'picture' of a tile). I'm doing this because it's fairly obvious that the existing subfloor isn't rigid enough for ceramic (many cracked tiles), but will it be good enough for laminate? Also, how clean will the old floor need to be after I remove the tile (and some mastic)? Also, I haven't selected a flooring product yet. Is the glueless tile as good as the glued? Can anyone recommend (or unrecommend) a product?
I should add that the floor is engineered trusses, 19" on center with 3/4" plywood - nothing else. This is in a kitchen-entry-bathroom area.


Carpets Done Wright
07-15-03, 06:17 PM
Every laminate has different specifications.

Read, fully understand, and follow the specifications to the letter. You'll be just fine as long as you don't cut corners to save on costs.

I can tell you the subfloor needs to be very flat!
And I don't mean eyeballing it.:D

cncgeek
09-22-03, 11:06 AM
Just a follow-up.
I used a 1" chisel and hammer to take up the old ceramic and thinset (not mastic, as I assumed). 187sf took about 3 hours. I used a belt sander and coarse grit belt to take down some of the remaining high spots of mortar. It works great but adds to the mess (and REALLY gets the wife agitated).
I used a Quickstep product - Uniclic laminate tile. It's easily cut with a wood saw (HDF), seems very durable, and goes together tight without glue. I had some difficulties keeping the joints lined up as I added tiles. Tapping each tile in place causes the others to move, so I eventually anchored the outside row of tiles (temporarily). It took me about 18 hours to lay 120 tiles, and, of the 120, I cut and fit 85 or more.
I checked the flatness before laying down the padding. It was good, but I can see how even a mildly uneven subfloor could make for an ugly result. Thanks CDW.