Carpentry and Woodworking - How to build old-fashioned wood storm windows

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Desperado
07-13-03, 12:56 PM
We own a very old farmhouse. We want to build new wooden storm windows to replace those that are beyond repair. The same goes for a few window sashes too. Some upper, some lower. The cost of installing total replacement windows has become cost-prohibitive, and perhaps aren't the best solution anyway. There are a total of 28 windows on this place. We've done 7 total replacement new type vinyl replacements and probably have 6 others that are decent as is. The rest are in need of some serious repair.

Any pointers on type of joints to make, thickness of wood to use, etc., will be greatly appreciated. Wood available at places like Menard's comes in a 1" thickness but is planed to 3/4. The wood on the original windows is at least an inch. We have experience in woodworking, but it has been many years since we have done a building project like this.


the_tow_guy
07-13-03, 01:14 PM
What you'll need for good joints is a rail and stile router bit set. These will cut the profile to hold the window glass as well as making the proper interlocking patterns to join the rails and stiles.

Check here: www.pricecutter.com

Unless there is some reason to use something as thick as 1", I would be inclined to use 3/4. Lighter and easier to work with. Any good quality species is probably usable, provided it is sufficiently dry and it is properly finished/painted when you're done.

Good luck.

chfite
07-13-03, 03:31 PM
Here is some help on building storm windows. None of it free, however. For structural concerns, I would consider making the storm windows from plexiglass or acrylic sheets as an alternative to glass because of the weight considerations.

"Making & Hand-Fitting Wooden Storms, by William Houze, in the Sept.-Oct. 1989 issue of This Old House Journal.

http://www.taunton.com/store/shoppingcart/online_selection_validation.asp?ID=021112104&TYPE=A

Making windows is not that hard if you have the tools. I have built them by hand, a real challenge for those who need more to do. The cutter sets for making windows require a fair amount of power to run. The normal thickness for windows is 1.75 inches. You might check into that before you buy any power tools for this task.

HTH


Desperado
07-13-03, 06:44 PM
Thanks for your help! We made a prototype for a storm using the 1" planed to 3/4 wood. It appears that this will work well for replacement storms. Since the slot for the glass is not all that deep, about 3/8, we are a little uncertain whether that is enough depth for the glass. Would it be best to use double strength regular glass, or acrylic or plexi? Does one do a better job of preventing heat loss over another? Would an acrylic caulk be superior to regular glazing compound? We figure we will have to use 2 x 4's planed down to about 1 3/4 to do the interior sashes as the originals are considerably thicker than the storms.

PS Another window fell to pieces today. All we tried to do was clean it.

chfite
07-13-03, 07:22 PM
In my mind, the extra layer of glass is the key to a storm window's effectiveness. Whether to use glass or not, well I think of glass being heavier to heft. If you are not going to move them too often, glass may be the thing.

I like siliconized acrylic latex caulk, and think it would be good for the storm windows. Use conventional glazing putty for the windows.

To make windows, skip the 2x4 and get some fir stock from the wood supplier. You can first and seconds rather than the 2x4 stuff. Get it 8/4 and plane and rip it yourself. You don't want to build windows from run of the mill stuff. All the hand work windows and doors I have made were from spanish cedar.

HTH

Desperado
07-14-03, 07:39 AM
Thank you, Chfite and The_Tow_Guy - Your suggestions have been most helpful. We appreciate your expertise.

Desperado

brickeyee
07-17-03, 11:11 AM
Cypress is another excellent window wood and holds paint well. Thicker pieces are available from hardwood lumber dealers. Fir would make lousy windows, but high grade ponderosa pine has been used for a long time. You will need a 1/2 inch router and a router table to shape the pieces. Woodhaven has great router tables, and SY makes decent cope and stick bit sets.
One of the problems with thinner wood for storm windows is warpage. The thicker wood is a little better. Resource Conservation in Baltimore , MD has a ton of seals, gaskets, and other goodies for making windows tighter.

ludlowjack
08-18-09, 01:30 PM
Came across this posting loking for similar advice. How did you ever make out with making those wooden storms? what did you finally decide upon-glass or otherwise?

Gunguy45
08-18-09, 01:36 PM
ludlow...its a 6 y/o post...doubt if you'll ever get an answer.