Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Bathroom/Durock
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09-21-00, 05:14 PM
I have removed everything from my master bathroom due to an error in
> the contractor plan 17 years ago. They put a 3'11" x 3'9" window in a
> bathtub area that caused extensive damage to the exterior wall as well as
> the 2 x 4 supports.
> I have removed every thing including all of the drywall. I am now at
> the point of cutting the damaged areas from the exterior wall. Which
> consists of T-111 and coquina. I am going to do away with the window
> altogether and blank off the wall with T-111.
> I have heard mixed information about using Durock? We were told that
> you are not supposed to use Durock top to bottom, instead only use 36" high
> off the floor. What do you recommend? And why? Because, this contractor
> though reliable did not have a substantial reason for this stadard of use,
> only that it was the norm in the industry.
> the contractor plan 17 years ago. They put a 3'11" x 3'9" window in a
> bathtub area that caused extensive damage to the exterior wall as well as
> the 2 x 4 supports.
> I have removed every thing including all of the drywall. I am now at
> the point of cutting the damaged areas from the exterior wall. Which
> consists of T-111 and coquina. I am going to do away with the window
> altogether and blank off the wall with T-111.
> I have heard mixed information about using Durock? We were told that
> you are not supposed to use Durock top to bottom, instead only use 36" high
> off the floor. What do you recommend? And why? Because, this contractor
> though reliable did not have a substantial reason for this stadard of use,
> only that it was the norm in the industry.
09-21-00, 08:12 PM
Paul:
I've got 21 bathrooms with cement backer board behind the tiles, and in every one of them I ran the Durock, Wonderboard, Duracrete or whatever it was being called that month right from the tub to the ceiling joists. Anyone who tells you only to use it 36 inches above the tub is telling you that you only really NEED it for the first few feet above the tub. I wouldn't hesitate to run it right up to the ceiling.
Also, if you want to do a Cadillac job, cut a fir 1X4 into pieces short enough to fit between your wall studs, and where you have horizontal joints between panels of cement backer board, attach a piece of wood across the back of the joint with drywall screws. Otherwise, if you happen to have a grout joint over top of this joint, then there's not much support there, and if you happen to fall against the wall during a drinking binge, it's likely that grout line would crack.
There's a very water resistant non-cement tile backer board available called Dens-Shield. Home Depot sells it. I didn't think much of it when I bought some to redo around the windows in one suite, but that stuff stands up to water pretty good. It's not as waterproof as a cement backer board, but I'd rate it a close 2nd. The Dens-Shield is significantly lighter and easier to work with than cement backer board, and 3 feet above the tub or higher you really don't have as much wetness, or problems associated with moisture. However, running cement backer board right to the ceiling would still be the most waterproof wall to put tiles over.
I've got 21 bathrooms with cement backer board behind the tiles, and in every one of them I ran the Durock, Wonderboard, Duracrete or whatever it was being called that month right from the tub to the ceiling joists. Anyone who tells you only to use it 36 inches above the tub is telling you that you only really NEED it for the first few feet above the tub. I wouldn't hesitate to run it right up to the ceiling.
Also, if you want to do a Cadillac job, cut a fir 1X4 into pieces short enough to fit between your wall studs, and where you have horizontal joints between panels of cement backer board, attach a piece of wood across the back of the joint with drywall screws. Otherwise, if you happen to have a grout joint over top of this joint, then there's not much support there, and if you happen to fall against the wall during a drinking binge, it's likely that grout line would crack.
There's a very water resistant non-cement tile backer board available called Dens-Shield. Home Depot sells it. I didn't think much of it when I bought some to redo around the windows in one suite, but that stuff stands up to water pretty good. It's not as waterproof as a cement backer board, but I'd rate it a close 2nd. The Dens-Shield is significantly lighter and easier to work with than cement backer board, and 3 feet above the tub or higher you really don't have as much wetness, or problems associated with moisture. However, running cement backer board right to the ceiling would still be the most waterproof wall to put tiles over.
09-22-00, 08:59 PM
Thank you for your assistance in this matter Mr. Kelebay. I am quite happy that I have received an answer so quickly. I am also happy that I don't have as many bath rooms to deal with as you do. Good luck in future endevors. Thanks again.