Kitchen Gas Appliances - Dryer No Heat
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johnt08057
05-24-03, 01:47 PM
Here's the problem:
GE gas dryer less than one year old, is unable to sustain heat. I've checked the vent for obstructions and put the flame sensor to an ohm meter. What else could it be? The solenoids aren't bad because I get an initial flame (for a few minutes). Is it likely that the thermostat is bad? Thanks , John
GE gas dryer less than one year old, is unable to sustain heat. I've checked the vent for obstructions and put the flame sensor to an ohm meter. What else could it be? The solenoids aren't bad because I get an initial flame (for a few minutes). Is it likely that the thermostat is bad? Thanks , John
Sharp Advice
05-24-03, 10:09 PM
Hello: John
Once it can be established the venting system is not the problem, the next most likely place and parts are those on top of the gas valve. They are the solenoids.
When one of the solenoids gets heated too much from normal usage, the coils of wire within them expand and break the internal electrical connection. Solenoid replacement is the only correctional option.
Replacing the solenoids, which are sold in pairs only, should resolve the problem. Be sure to unplug the dryer first and turn off the gas supply to it before attempting any repairs.
Remove the entire gas valve assembly. Then remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate. Replace both solenoids and reassemble the parts as you originally found them
Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.
Another possibility could be a defective gas valve. Remove entire gas valve unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found to be defective.
Flame Sensor is yet another possibility:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it may cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.
A weak glow coil may also be all or part of the problem. Replacing it may resolve the problem but not positively.
For additional information, repair instructions etc. read the other questions within this forum pertaining to dryer topics. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.
These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain all the required information needed pertaining to the many possible problems with the dryers unit like your describing.
Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model & serial numbers.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for additional problem solving information and original replacement parts. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book.
If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button once again to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered.
Regards & Good Luck, Forum Host & Multiple Topic Moderator.
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises. Energy Conservation Consultant & Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
If you have additional questions on this appliance, after checking the possible causes mentioned above, use the reply button in the first question to post back any updates, etc.
Once it can be established the venting system is not the problem, the next most likely place and parts are those on top of the gas valve. They are the solenoids.
When one of the solenoids gets heated too much from normal usage, the coils of wire within them expand and break the internal electrical connection. Solenoid replacement is the only correctional option.
Replacing the solenoids, which are sold in pairs only, should resolve the problem. Be sure to unplug the dryer first and turn off the gas supply to it before attempting any repairs.
Remove the entire gas valve assembly. Then remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate. Replace both solenoids and reassemble the parts as you originally found them
Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.
Another possibility could be a defective gas valve. Remove entire gas valve unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found to be defective.
Flame Sensor is yet another possibility:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it may cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.
A weak glow coil may also be all or part of the problem. Replacing it may resolve the problem but not positively.
For additional information, repair instructions etc. read the other questions within this forum pertaining to dryer topics. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.
These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain all the required information needed pertaining to the many possible problems with the dryers unit like your describing.
Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model & serial numbers.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for additional problem solving information and original replacement parts. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book.
If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button once again to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered.
Regards & Good Luck, Forum Host & Multiple Topic Moderator.
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises. Energy Conservation Consultant & Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
If you have additional questions on this appliance, after checking the possible causes mentioned above, use the reply button in the first question to post back any updates, etc.
johnt08057
06-01-03, 05:42 AM
Well, I replaced the solenoids and now have a working dryer! But I've got a couple of things bugging me. First, the solenoids I replaced tested fine on my ohm meter...any possible reason, user error??
Second, GE sells their solenoids for about sixty bucks a pair(according to one appliance part distributor), while another distributor sold me a pair of solenoids( maytag) for twenty-one eighty three... telling me that they're universal!
everything is working so i am happy, and i saved forty dollars which i invested directly into beer to help celebrate my victory over the appliance demon. Thanks for your help!
Second, GE sells their solenoids for about sixty bucks a pair(according to one appliance part distributor), while another distributor sold me a pair of solenoids( maytag) for twenty-one eighty three... telling me that they're universal!
everything is working so i am happy, and i saved forty dollars which i invested directly into beer to help celebrate my victory over the appliance demon. Thanks for your help!
Sharp Advice
06-01-03, 06:53 AM
Hello: John
You asked why the solenoids tested fine. Excellent question!
Solenoids heat up as the current passes throught them. They are what is commonly known as "Electro Magnets." The current causes them to heat up and it is also the heat that causes them to expand slightly.
Expanding and heating up slightly, as all wire does, causes the electrical grounds, shorts, disconnects at any internal location within the the coil of wire.
The coils do not always reveal the above when cool or cold. That is why I suggested there replacement even though you claimed they where fine when ohm tested. Most coils do when cool.
Another example is appliance fuses. Usually used on stoves and ovens. When removed from it's holder and or not passing current, under a visual inspection only, the internal filament looks fine.
A continuity test may reveal an open circuit in a fuse that other wise looks visually fine. Such may not be the case while in use and heated under usage.
In all cases above and in others, the parts or componets look and appear okay but are actually defective in some manner. Testing may not reveal the problem unless the apart is being tested when it is in normal working conditions, not always possible.
You asked why the solenoids tested fine. Excellent question!
Solenoids heat up as the current passes throught them. They are what is commonly known as "Electro Magnets." The current causes them to heat up and it is also the heat that causes them to expand slightly.
Expanding and heating up slightly, as all wire does, causes the electrical grounds, shorts, disconnects at any internal location within the the coil of wire.
The coils do not always reveal the above when cool or cold. That is why I suggested there replacement even though you claimed they where fine when ohm tested. Most coils do when cool.
Another example is appliance fuses. Usually used on stoves and ovens. When removed from it's holder and or not passing current, under a visual inspection only, the internal filament looks fine.
A continuity test may reveal an open circuit in a fuse that other wise looks visually fine. Such may not be the case while in use and heated under usage.
In all cases above and in others, the parts or componets look and appear okay but are actually defective in some manner. Testing may not reveal the problem unless the apart is being tested when it is in normal working conditions, not always possible.