Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - Circular Saws
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Circular Saws
mb576
05-22-03, 07:46 PM
I have been using a Black and Decker circular saw for a year now. Latley it has been cutting on a angle and I am going through blades with burning wood. I have tryed "0" the angle adjustment but it apears that this is not the problem. When I started burning wood after buying a new blade I decided to buy another Black and Decker. Better one I thought? Now after only months it is doing the same thing. The wood burns after a couple of cuts, and in most cases the cut is angled. Is it something I'm doing? I tryied letting the blade do the work without much pushing but no use. I'm buying a Skil saw. Think this will sovle the problem? Please help, this has frustrated me for months now. I'm ready to save for a good saw if this is the problem?
chfite
05-22-03, 08:37 PM
I always use the cheapest circular saw I can find and add a carbide blade. I don't think brand or newness will matter for most of us. The high speed steel blades that come with these saws don't last very long.
The cut is angled? Do you mean as if the blade were tilted relative to the sole plate? Use a square to set the blade to 90 degrees. But this being off would not make the wood burn, just be cut at an angle.
Are you setting the blade deeper than tooth depth past the bottom of the work to be cut? This can leave more blade than needed dragging behind, and can cause burning if you are cutting freehand when the backside of the blade binds against the wood.
Hope this helps.
The cut is angled? Do you mean as if the blade were tilted relative to the sole plate? Use a square to set the blade to 90 degrees. But this being off would not make the wood burn, just be cut at an angle.
Are you setting the blade deeper than tooth depth past the bottom of the work to be cut? This can leave more blade than needed dragging behind, and can cause burning if you are cutting freehand when the backside of the blade binds against the wood.
Hope this helps.
mb576
05-24-03, 08:21 PM
I have tryed adjusting the blade but it will not go past "0". The blade seems also to be loose but theres no way to tighten any further? I can actually move it with my fingers but can't tighten. And I normally just put the teeth slightly protruding from the wood product. Is that wrong? Can I have the blade on backwards? You normally put it on with the print on the front or in the direction of the rotating blade as perscribed on the blade. Thanks for your help.
chfite
05-24-03, 09:37 PM
The blade absolutely should not be loose. Check to make sure that your arbor matches the blade, the mounting nut is not reversed, and there are no parts missing from the arbor. The teeth should point up forward from the bottom.
Sharp Advice
05-25-03, 05:00 PM
My Two Cents....:)
Hello: mb576
Remove the blade and check for free play of the drive shaft. If you can wiggle the motor shaft with the blade installed correctly, the free play may be caused by worn out motor end bearings.
If this is the case, the local electric motor repair shop can install new motor and or drive shaft end bearings for little costs. Electric motor repair shops can be located in any local phone book.
Hello: mb576
Remove the blade and check for free play of the drive shaft. If you can wiggle the motor shaft with the blade installed correctly, the free play may be caused by worn out motor end bearings.
If this is the case, the local electric motor repair shop can install new motor and or drive shaft end bearings for little costs. Electric motor repair shops can be located in any local phone book.