Painting - Prepping corners for painting
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aylthc
04-30-03, 11:04 AM
I am prepping the corner between a cabinet (not to be painted) and drywall for painting. I've removed the old caulk and sanded/feathered the paint edge as best I can, but the edge is still prominent and loose in some areas, and is far enough away from the cabinet that a caulk bead won't cover it. Also, there is fuzzy drywall paper or gypsum exposed in some areas from removing old caulk and sanding. My questions are:
1. How can I fix the paint edge so that it won't show up with the new topcoat?
2. Do I use primer on the exposed drywall paper and gysum? Do I do that before or after I caulk?
Thanks for your advice.
1. How can I fix the paint edge so that it won't show up with the new topcoat?
2. Do I use primer on the exposed drywall paper and gysum? Do I do that before or after I caulk?
Thanks for your advice.
chfite
04-30-03, 04:54 PM
You can scrape or sand the edge flush. Prime the wallboard, then caulk.
insainity
05-01-03, 10:26 PM
Your best bet is the skim(=thin) coat the fuzzy dry wall areas and any area described,with jiont compound,for dry wall.Just build it up and sand it flush,sround the edges.The fuzzy areas may need two coats.( it sounds like the paint sorta chiped away as you sanded,to flush it up.)This is normaly what happens,when you sand hard enough to cut threw the paint.Nothing to worry about.Just patch it up,with the jiont compound.
As for the crack,it may be easier to put a trim piece over it,like a piece of shoe mold or qaurter round.If you cabnets are stained make sure you get a piece of stain grade trim if you wish to stain it to match,or you might paint it to match your wall or trim.
You can caulk cracks up to 1/4 of an inch,rather easy.But it might take a few coats to cover it.Just run a small pass ,aginst the wall,let it dry for a day then connect it with a pass aginst the cabnet.Then put a finail pass over it on the third day.Each day will alow for drying and some shrinkage.It will shrink a little bit further,for up to a month or so.You also might cut the caulk tub far enough back to make a 1/4 wide pass.Buy the kind that fits the gun.Not the sqweeze tubes.Also make sure it is paintable they make some such as tub and tile and clear that is not paintable.Just make sure its dry and firm feeling when you paint it or it will crack the paint as it shrinks.Try to find some brand name caulk other than Dap.It tends not to bind as well as others and also cracks back open rather easy.
Hope this helps,good luck!
As for the crack,it may be easier to put a trim piece over it,like a piece of shoe mold or qaurter round.If you cabnets are stained make sure you get a piece of stain grade trim if you wish to stain it to match,or you might paint it to match your wall or trim.
You can caulk cracks up to 1/4 of an inch,rather easy.But it might take a few coats to cover it.Just run a small pass ,aginst the wall,let it dry for a day then connect it with a pass aginst the cabnet.Then put a finail pass over it on the third day.Each day will alow for drying and some shrinkage.It will shrink a little bit further,for up to a month or so.You also might cut the caulk tub far enough back to make a 1/4 wide pass.Buy the kind that fits the gun.Not the sqweeze tubes.Also make sure it is paintable they make some such as tub and tile and clear that is not paintable.Just make sure its dry and firm feeling when you paint it or it will crack the paint as it shrinks.Try to find some brand name caulk other than Dap.It tends not to bind as well as others and also cracks back open rather easy.
Hope this helps,good luck!