Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - hardwood floor edge expansion
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dougmint
04-15-03, 01:38 PM
I am installing 3/4" 2-1/4" hardwood floor in my house. I watched Don Bollinger's video, and it states to leave a 3/4" expansion joint around the edge. I am hoping to leave the existing baseboard moldings in place, and hide the gap with a shoe molding. However, the shoe moldings are only 1/2" thick and 3/4" tall. This is not enough to cover the 3/4" gap. What am I doing wrong?
DIMMike
04-15-03, 08:05 PM
Anyone trying to install hardwood should link to this site ASAP.
Doug if you look at the third picture, the assumption is you install beneath the base and the quarter round. That makes a bit over an inch to work with, which leaves you a 1/4 inch for the wood to shrink. It's not symetric because shrinking is less damaging than swelling.
http://www.nofma.org/installation2.htm
One way to achieve this is by removing the molding and re-installing it on top of the floor. Slow and messy but it works. Get scrap of wood to make sure you are not putting pressure in concentrated form on the wall(I used a flat giveaway sample of a 3/8th material). A pry bar will work, but you want one with a flat blade, I just bought one at a hardware store for $12. Remember length is leverage.
The way without removing is to undercut the base. A hardware store may rent fairly cheap a tool. Other things work, but this is the right tool.
The site of one of the moderators of this forum,
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/prenail.htm
2nd picture shows what it looks like, and it can be used on casing too.
Doug if you look at the third picture, the assumption is you install beneath the base and the quarter round. That makes a bit over an inch to work with, which leaves you a 1/4 inch for the wood to shrink. It's not symetric because shrinking is less damaging than swelling.
http://www.nofma.org/installation2.htm
One way to achieve this is by removing the molding and re-installing it on top of the floor. Slow and messy but it works. Get scrap of wood to make sure you are not putting pressure in concentrated form on the wall(I used a flat giveaway sample of a 3/8th material). A pry bar will work, but you want one with a flat blade, I just bought one at a hardware store for $12. Remember length is leverage.
The way without removing is to undercut the base. A hardware store may rent fairly cheap a tool. Other things work, but this is the right tool.
The site of one of the moderators of this forum,
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/prenail.htm
2nd picture shows what it looks like, and it can be used on casing too.
dougmint
04-16-03, 06:56 AM
Thanks for the feedback. I was trying to see if I could not mess with my existing base moldings, but it sounds like I will have to move them or replace them.
How do you handle the expansion gap at a kitchen cabinet? Again, the 3/4" gap will not be hidden by the shoe molding alone.
How do you handle the expansion gap at a kitchen cabinet? Again, the 3/4" gap will not be hidden by the shoe molding alone.