Basements, Attics and Crawl Spaces - Steel Studs/Insulation/Sheetrock
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Gabling2
04-02-03, 06:40 AM
Hello! We are currently refinishing our basment up to the point where the drywall is going to be hung in the next few days.
We have all steel studs with R13 Kraft insulation (kraft facing towards finished space). I'd like to 'glue and screw' the drywall to the steel beams.
My question is this - after I put the insulation up, I was going to tape the side tabs to each other over the steel beam. I used true 16" insulation for steel beams so the friction fit is fine with no sagging. If we glue the drywall to the beams, most of the glue will simply be on the Kraft paper tabs, not on the steel.
Do I need to tape the insulation tabs to the steel beams or is the friction fit enough for it to hold over the years?
Thank you all for your expert help!!!
Glen
We have all steel studs with R13 Kraft insulation (kraft facing towards finished space). I'd like to 'glue and screw' the drywall to the steel beams.
My question is this - after I put the insulation up, I was going to tape the side tabs to each other over the steel beam. I used true 16" insulation for steel beams so the friction fit is fine with no sagging. If we glue the drywall to the beams, most of the glue will simply be on the Kraft paper tabs, not on the steel.
Do I need to tape the insulation tabs to the steel beams or is the friction fit enough for it to hold over the years?
Thank you all for your expert help!!!
Glen
Ed Imeduc
04-03-03, 12:27 PM
Over the years on jobs I have gone back on and into the walls I have not seen or had any friction fit fall down. With the glue I would still screw the drywall to the steel studes. Just for kicks if you want put a Z on the back of the drywall and this will dry and help hole up the insulation;) ED
Gabling2
04-03-03, 12:36 PM
Thanks for the reply... I just had the insulation inspector out this morning (passed!). He said that normally I shouldn't even glue the drywall to the steel studs - it's the warping and movement of wood (not steel) that usually leads to the popped screws.
Thanks also for the 'z' advice - I might think about that on a few pieces that are not really snug fitting. Also, for the reassurance that the friction fit pieces won't sag down over time.
Sheet rock this weekend!! :)
Thanks also for the 'z' advice - I might think about that on a few pieces that are not really snug fitting. Also, for the reassurance that the friction fit pieces won't sag down over time.
Sheet rock this weekend!! :)