Glass and Mirrors - Pittsburgh-Corning EZ Track System
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turbojimmy
04-01-03, 06:29 AM
Has anyone used the Pittsburgh-Corning "EZ Track" system for installing glass block? I'd like to install 3 non-load bearing glass block panels in my basement and don't want to get into the mess associated with traditional mortar. The instructions look easy - it's plastic track around and in between the blocks. You fill the gaps with silicone (which could get messy and ugly) once the track is installed.
If anyone could relate their experience it would be appreciated.....
Jim
If anyone could relate their experience it would be appreciated.....
Jim
twelvepole
04-09-03, 01:18 AM
Based on forum posts, glass block manufacturers and retailers are full info about installation instructions. Talk with your retailer of glass blocks. Please post back here to share your info. This question pops up from time to time and we would love to know what you learn.
turbojimmy
04-09-03, 03:23 AM
Thanks for the reply.
I watched the Pittsburgh-Corning video and it did come with pretty explicit instructions. I had hoped someone had used the EZ Track system and had some impressions of it. Often "EZ" means "cheesy", so I was wondering if it was worth the extra time and effort to go the mortar route.
In any event, I ordered the 3 1/2" Thinline block and got the EZ Track installation kits. Should arrive in a couple of weeks. I've roughed out 2 "windows" - one 5' x 2' and the other 2' x 3'. They are interior windows to get natural light from parts of the basement that I didn't necessarily want to see into (like a workshop/storage area).
I have pics on my website - I'll keep them updated as I progress.
Jim
I watched the Pittsburgh-Corning video and it did come with pretty explicit instructions. I had hoped someone had used the EZ Track system and had some impressions of it. Often "EZ" means "cheesy", so I was wondering if it was worth the extra time and effort to go the mortar route.
In any event, I ordered the 3 1/2" Thinline block and got the EZ Track installation kits. Should arrive in a couple of weeks. I've roughed out 2 "windows" - one 5' x 2' and the other 2' x 3'. They are interior windows to get natural light from parts of the basement that I didn't necessarily want to see into (like a workshop/storage area).
I have pics on my website - I'll keep them updated as I progress.
Jim
turbojimmy
05-12-03, 08:42 AM
I haven't forgotten about this.
I have all the block (heavy stuff!), installation kits, and track. I've watched the installation video and I'm just about ready to go. I need to square the rough frames out with some 3/4" pine that I bought and then I'm off to the races.
I'm going to start with the "kitchen" window (5' x 2') first - the Icescapes pattern. The building inspector is still thinking about whether or not he's okay with the block "window" on my stairway landing. From the basement side, it's about 3-4 feet up. On the landing, however, it's ankle high. He's not sure if it'll pass code (doesn't want any "kids falling through it"). Worst case is I'll have to put a railing in front of it.
I'll start on it this week and log my progress.
Jim
I have all the block (heavy stuff!), installation kits, and track. I've watched the installation video and I'm just about ready to go. I need to square the rough frames out with some 3/4" pine that I bought and then I'm off to the races.
I'm going to start with the "kitchen" window (5' x 2') first - the Icescapes pattern. The building inspector is still thinking about whether or not he's okay with the block "window" on my stairway landing. From the basement side, it's about 3-4 feet up. On the landing, however, it's ankle high. He's not sure if it'll pass code (doesn't want any "kids falling through it"). Worst case is I'll have to put a railing in front of it.
I'll start on it this week and log my progress.
Jim
turbojimmy
06-01-03, 02:22 PM
Okay it's done. Pics are here:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/basement.html
The EZ Track system really was very easy. I have not done the caulking yet, but their directions were really good and it all went together nicely. The block windows are very solid - even without the caulk. You'd have to try pretty hard to break through it, unlike a regular window. The reason I mention this is that I put a 2' high by 3' wide "window" on my landing on my stairs. It's only a few inches off the floor (but when you're in the basement it's actually 4' off the floor). The building inspector wasn't sure if it would pass code, but it's as solid as the wall is. He's coming back to check it this week.
Just a couple of observations:
1) Make sure your opening is plumb and square. You could wind up with a mess when you get to the last row of block.
2) Make sure your measurements are EXACT. There's very little room for error on the chart they give you. 1/4" can mean the difference between nice, tight blocks and loose ones. Conversely, 1/4" the other way can mean you won't be able to get the last piece of channel in at the top.
3) The kits, specifically the vertical spacers, are designed for 8" block. I don't think they make spacers designed for 6" or 4" block since the instructions say to simply cut the 8" spacers if you're using 6" or 4" block. The problem with this is that each end of the spacer has a nice, concave curve to meet the horizontal spacer when using 8" block. Unless you want to take the time to precisely measure and duplicate this radius, you wind up with gaps where the vertical spacer meets the horizontal spacer. I used 6" block, so I had to cut every one. At first I was kind of sloppy about it because I didn't think you'd be able to see them. But you can see them. It's not really too noticable and will probably be even less noticable once I seal the block. The sealer is clear, though, so you may be able to see through it enough to matter.
HTH,
Jim
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/basement.html
The EZ Track system really was very easy. I have not done the caulking yet, but their directions were really good and it all went together nicely. The block windows are very solid - even without the caulk. You'd have to try pretty hard to break through it, unlike a regular window. The reason I mention this is that I put a 2' high by 3' wide "window" on my landing on my stairs. It's only a few inches off the floor (but when you're in the basement it's actually 4' off the floor). The building inspector wasn't sure if it would pass code, but it's as solid as the wall is. He's coming back to check it this week.
Just a couple of observations:
1) Make sure your opening is plumb and square. You could wind up with a mess when you get to the last row of block.
2) Make sure your measurements are EXACT. There's very little room for error on the chart they give you. 1/4" can mean the difference between nice, tight blocks and loose ones. Conversely, 1/4" the other way can mean you won't be able to get the last piece of channel in at the top.
3) The kits, specifically the vertical spacers, are designed for 8" block. I don't think they make spacers designed for 6" or 4" block since the instructions say to simply cut the 8" spacers if you're using 6" or 4" block. The problem with this is that each end of the spacer has a nice, concave curve to meet the horizontal spacer when using 8" block. Unless you want to take the time to precisely measure and duplicate this radius, you wind up with gaps where the vertical spacer meets the horizontal spacer. I used 6" block, so I had to cut every one. At first I was kind of sloppy about it because I didn't think you'd be able to see them. But you can see them. It's not really too noticable and will probably be even less noticable once I seal the block. The sealer is clear, though, so you may be able to see through it enough to matter.
HTH,
Jim