Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Drain not under shower

The base of our basement shower has cracked. We remodeled this bathroom just a few years ago. We put the base up on some supports because the drain is not directly under the base. Then we ran a pipe over to the drain. This worked until the base cracked. Do we have the right idea, but didn't support it well enough, or is there a better way to handle the remote drain?

dandb,

Lack of support and in some cases leaks at drain pipe fittings and worst of all cracks in the finish material or cracks through the finish material, as you found out.

Not knowing how far up this is from the floor, you may have to really reconsider the application and possibly consider the proper installation like relocating the drain and doing it right. Raised platforms can be a nightware if there are going to be tile and not secured properly. Movement will cause cracks to other areas. I realize that this can be costly if you cannot do it yourself but it is better in the long term.

Whatever brand you will purchase, you need proper support. Most manufacturers recommend or suggest installing a mortar base support under the tub bottom before setting the tub in place. You can use either a bag of Quikcrete or a 5 gallon pail of pre-mix joint compound. ( usually I use the pre-mix 5 gallon...lazy and it's less mess)

When this sets up, usually with 24-48 hours, your shower base will be rock solid supported. No flexing which I assume it is flexing alot to the point it broke!. This does 2 things, prevents any possibility of potential cracking within the fiberglass/acrylic and eliminates any movement at the tub drain assembly or potential leaks that could happen.

When this is all done, you will have no more problems!

Hope this helps!

Thank you for the reply. We have the shower elevated probably 5" or so. Just enough that we can run the pipe over to the drain (probably 3' from the center of the base) and it is downhill enough that it will drain. Our thought at the time we did this (setting it up on the false floor)was it should be no different than sitting the shower on the normal floor. We apparently didn't have it secured good or leveled right or something. I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about with the mortar. Do you basically fill all the empty area under the base with the mortar? How do you go about doing this? Thanks again.

dandb,

I use joint compound, 5 gallon general purpose pre-mix and dump this under the shower base or tub. This is done prior to installation and attaching to the studs via the nailing flanges. Not all manufactures require this but most recommend or suggest it. It just makes sense to have a solid base regardless of how it is made. There is nothing fancy about doing this.

***THIS DOES REQUIRE A DRY FIT FIRST TO ALSO INCLUDE YOUR ROUGH IN PLUMBING LINES/FAUCET***

First, have your rough opening set where you want it. Have your drain line at the correct level to hook up when this has cured to a dry state. When you have dumped this down, KEEP ALL PRODUCT AWAY FROM DRAIN HOLES or BASE WEBBING/FOOT PADS, have your level handy and ensure that it is totally level preferably with the finished edge skirt/shower front lip touching the substrate. In most cases this can be done. Make sure you level things up front to back and side to side. Attache your fasteners through the flange into the studs. Double check level. Leave this alone for 24- 48 hours before complting the installation.

Note the 2nd paragraph on a Lasco unit.

http://www.lascobath.com/installation/1900.pdf

Hope this helps!