Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - bathroom remodeling questions

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leinsteinh
03-13-03, 12:20 PM
I will be remodeling by bathroom this summer. Everything will come out down to the studs, including the ceiling. It would be of great help if I could get a few questions answered before I start.

1. Should the bat insulation be faced or unfaced?
2. Do I need a vapor barrier over the insulation?
3. I think greenboard is used on the walls. Should greenboard also be used on the
ceiling?
4. Should cement board be used in the tub/shower area? Is it also used on the
ceiling in the tub/shower area?
5. What thickness drywall should be used in the bathroom?
6. Does the drywall get painted, after the tape and mud job get done, with a special
paint?
7. I'm thinking about putting beadboard on the walls for the covering. Would this be
ok in a bathroom?
8. Is the ceiling ok with just a paint job on the drywall or do I need something else?

Thank you for your help.


Brewbeer
03-13-03, 01:09 PM
1. Faced (if no plastic vapor barrier) on outside wall(s). Place the facing toward the heated side of the wall.
2. You can use poly on the heated side of unfaced insulation.
3. Greenboard can be used on ceiling, but in a ceiling application greenboard needs nailing that is 12 inches on center. Regular drywall can be used on the ceiling with normal 16 inch on center framing.
4. Use cement board for the walls inside the tub/shower enclosure. Not necessary for ceiling.
5. 1/2 inch drywall is the norm. 5/8 is a little more sound resistant.
6. I like to use a semi-gloss paint in a bathroom. Easier to clean than flatter paints.
7. prolly ok.
8. Paint is all you need on the ceiling.

Good luck!

agalkin
03-14-03, 10:56 PM
Sorry for the trivial question. Could you tell me please what is "faced and unfaced insulation"?


Doug Aleshire
03-15-03, 12:12 AM
agalkin,

Kraft Faced - has paper on one side which can be stapled to your studs. No vapor barrier required when used.

Unfaced - friction fit - no paper - requires a vapor barrier

Hope this helps!