Flooring Tile - rigid insulation between concrete slab and tile?
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mbi
03-10-03, 12:15 PM
I know ceramic tile floor can be installed directly on concrete slab, but I guess it won't feel warm even with baseboard heating on. Can I put some thin rigid insulation between the slab and the tile? Exterior grade plywood could work, but will it last long enough under potential moisture conditions? Any other products? What is the best way of installing tile floor on concrete, which would keep the tile relatively warm and wouldn't take too much headroom? Thanks for your guidance.
ee3
03-10-03, 05:56 PM
no foam would not support the tile , it would crack.There are in floor heating systems that can be installed under the tile, to warm them.
awesomedell
03-10-03, 09:17 PM
Ditto on the no foam under the tile. Big NO-NO!
Doug Aleshire
03-10-03, 09:53 PM
mbi,
Not sure if this a bathroom or what pr where you are considering the tile but the below method is one way to acquire a "warmer" floor but ceramic tile is not going to be warm unless you placed radiant heat of some kind. Installing foam is not recommended in the below applications. The air space does act as barrier from concrete to finished floor and allows ventilation for any condesation to dry out. If this is an older home, this will be minimal and no damage will be incurred.
***IN ALL THAT HAS BEEN WRITTEN AND WHAT YOU DESCRIBED, NO MENTION OF ANY HEIGHT RESTRICTIONS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED. IF THERE ARE DOORS OR OTHER ITEMS THAT RESTRICT THE APPLICATION OF THE BELOW METHOD, OTHER ALTERNATIVES APPLICATIONS TO A FINISH FLOORING SHOULD BE CONSIDERED.***
SLEEPERS - 2 X 4 STOCK - W/T MATERIAL
By installing flat, dry, preservative-treated 2" x 4" sleepers they can also serve as a nailing base for 3/4" plywood/cement board backer. You can use a ramset to apply all the sleepers.
Begin by sweeping the slab clean, applying an asphalt primer and allowing it to dry. Next, embed the sleepers on their flat faces in rivers of hot (poured) or cold (cut-back) asphalt mastic, in rows 12" or 16" on center.
Before installing the 3/4" subfloor, loosely lay an additional vapor barrier of 4 to 6 mil polyethylene film over the sleepers, overlapping the edges on top of the 2 x 4s. Avoid bunching or puncturing the film, especially between sleepers.
Nail the 3/4" subfloor to the sleepers through the film.
Once done with this you can apply your cement backer board as per installation instructions. Then your tile.
Hope this helps!
Not sure if this a bathroom or what pr where you are considering the tile but the below method is one way to acquire a "warmer" floor but ceramic tile is not going to be warm unless you placed radiant heat of some kind. Installing foam is not recommended in the below applications. The air space does act as barrier from concrete to finished floor and allows ventilation for any condesation to dry out. If this is an older home, this will be minimal and no damage will be incurred.
***IN ALL THAT HAS BEEN WRITTEN AND WHAT YOU DESCRIBED, NO MENTION OF ANY HEIGHT RESTRICTIONS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED. IF THERE ARE DOORS OR OTHER ITEMS THAT RESTRICT THE APPLICATION OF THE BELOW METHOD, OTHER ALTERNATIVES APPLICATIONS TO A FINISH FLOORING SHOULD BE CONSIDERED.***
SLEEPERS - 2 X 4 STOCK - W/T MATERIAL
By installing flat, dry, preservative-treated 2" x 4" sleepers they can also serve as a nailing base for 3/4" plywood/cement board backer. You can use a ramset to apply all the sleepers.
Begin by sweeping the slab clean, applying an asphalt primer and allowing it to dry. Next, embed the sleepers on their flat faces in rivers of hot (poured) or cold (cut-back) asphalt mastic, in rows 12" or 16" on center.
Before installing the 3/4" subfloor, loosely lay an additional vapor barrier of 4 to 6 mil polyethylene film over the sleepers, overlapping the edges on top of the 2 x 4s. Avoid bunching or puncturing the film, especially between sleepers.
Nail the 3/4" subfloor to the sleepers through the film.
Once done with this you can apply your cement backer board as per installation instructions. Then your tile.
Hope this helps!
ee3
03-11-03, 08:59 AM
never mind??------
oh i'll say it. if you are going to go though all of the above consider seilf leveling. but for the price of either you could have a heated floor almost.
oh i'll say it. if you are going to go though all of the above consider seilf leveling. but for the price of either you could have a heated floor almost.
WJS_SR51
03-12-03, 04:49 PM
You finally got me-- no reply-- install carpet ????
We don't heat floors in SW Florida, we cool them.
We don't heat floors in SW Florida, we cool them.
canada mike
05-22-03, 12:12 PM
These question are for Doug Aleshire's suggestions.
Why the asphalt primer on the concrete?
Why the poured river of asphalt mastic?
The vapor barrier on top?
Couldn't he put down a vapor barrier first (like in a basement), put the 2"x4" nailed into the concrete slab with rigid insulation between the 2"x4". Then the plywood and cement board.
Just trying to understand the reasons.
Thanks.
Why the asphalt primer on the concrete?
Why the poured river of asphalt mastic?
The vapor barrier on top?
Couldn't he put down a vapor barrier first (like in a basement), put the 2"x4" nailed into the concrete slab with rigid insulation between the 2"x4". Then the plywood and cement board.
Just trying to understand the reasons.
Thanks.