Flooring Tile - Spaces
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JRRR.
03-04-03, 11:19 AM
Previous owner installed ceramic tile over hardwood floors. They cut tile around doors and case mouldings. Now I changed doors and removed mouldings. I now have a hole down to the original hardwood floor in the spots the shape of the old clamshell case moulding. I will be installing moulding but would first like to fill in these holes. What is the best course of action? The depth is approx 2" or so. If I try to fill with grout-wouldnt it crack? Any ideas? Thanks.
John Nelson
03-04-03, 12:37 PM
If it's going to be covered, I'm not sure why you need to fill it at all. But if you want to, use backer rod and then caulk. It's pretty amazing that somebody cut the tile to fit the moldings rather than just undercutting the moldings.
JRRR.
03-04-03, 01:06 PM
John thanks for the reply. I agree why tile around the mouldings. Its a mystery. I do not think the caulk thing will do it even with a backer rod. The hole is deep approx 2" and in the profile of 2 1/4"
clamshell moulding.Any other ideas?
clamshell moulding.Any other ideas?
John Nelson
03-04-03, 02:36 PM
Fill it with expanding foam. Why are you filling it?
JRRR.
03-04-03, 02:39 PM
I will be filling it because my new casing profile will probably not cover the old hole completely. I would like to grout it but I am afraid that is too large an area "unsupported" to have grout without cracking-maybe grout on top of the foam? I would like to match the grout on the floor. By filling this area even with the surrounding tile it will look better once I put up the new casing moulding. Any area showing after moulding install will look like a grout joint.
ee3
03-04-03, 04:49 PM
How about hydrolic cement.???
JRRR.
03-04-03, 05:13 PM
Hydraulic cement would be an option. But i would like it to "match" my existing grout. Any more ideas?
tile2day
03-04-03, 07:49 PM
JRRR< I'm not sure what style of home you have but I will give you a suggesstion anyway. Envision the casing and door jamb layout of a victorian era home. Usually, at the bottom and top is a square which I think is called a rosette. It sometimes has carving or is flat. I suggest that you plase a small rosette at the bottom at just barely the thickness (profile away from the wall) and squared by the with of the casing (2 1/4 x 2 1/4) [this may involve you removing the baseboard on either side of the door and cutting it back to the new rosette] This may solve your problem and the most you would have to do is match any other doors in the room to make it look all the same. Let us know how it turns out.