Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Stain Prep
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Cicco
02-19-03, 07:50 PM
My deck is showing signs of agging. Its turning grey in some areas. I used a clear stain on top of cedar. The stain has been weathered away over the winter adn is now turning grey in some areas. Will I need to sand these spots before applying a new coat of stain this spring.
lefty
02-22-03, 04:40 AM
Power wash and reseal the deck this spring. As far as sanding -- if you are thinking about sanding out the gray areas, probably best to forget it. The power washing should eliminate most of it, but some of it is going to be too deep into the wood to get out.
What do you use for a sealer??
What do you use for a sealer??
fewalt
02-22-03, 07:48 AM
Most stains and/or water repellant sealers will have to be stripped while pressure washing to ensure a good adhesion of the next stain. You will most likely need a sodium hydroxide type deck stripper. These strippers require pracautions like safety glasses and skin protection. Nearby plants also need to be covered.
As info, clear stains offer little uv protection - this is why your deck greyed.
fred
As info, clear stains offer little uv protection - this is why your deck greyed.
fred
Cicco
02-24-03, 09:00 AM
I used Behr natural seal plus NWF waterproofing to seal my deck. Its a clear sealer and finish. I knew going into using this product that I would have to re-seal the often. The manufacuturer says every 1.5 years for decks. I've had to reseal the deck twice a year (spring - fall).
I was advised by a professional painter who looked at my deck as he was preparing a quote to paint my house that I should use Sikens to finsh my deck. Both Behr and Sitkens offer the clear stain which is what we want. I know that with the clear stains there isn't the pigment to protect against UV but Sitkens claims to be good unto for 4-5 years. Its a 2 step process where you apply the first coat and in 6-12 months later apply the second coat. The second coat is a sperate Sitkens product. Then your good for 4-5 years even on flat deck surfaces.
I want to strip off the Behr product and use Sitkens. I think the Behr product is slightly better than Thompsons Watersealer which we all know is cr-p. I believe I will need to use a chemical stripper to remove the Behr product. What are some reliable strippers to use in this case. Do you think I could get away with just sanding.
I was advised by a professional painter who looked at my deck as he was preparing a quote to paint my house that I should use Sikens to finsh my deck. Both Behr and Sitkens offer the clear stain which is what we want. I know that with the clear stains there isn't the pigment to protect against UV but Sitkens claims to be good unto for 4-5 years. Its a 2 step process where you apply the first coat and in 6-12 months later apply the second coat. The second coat is a sperate Sitkens product. Then your good for 4-5 years even on flat deck surfaces.
I want to strip off the Behr product and use Sitkens. I think the Behr product is slightly better than Thompsons Watersealer which we all know is cr-p. I believe I will need to use a chemical stripper to remove the Behr product. What are some reliable strippers to use in this case. Do you think I could get away with just sanding.
fewalt
02-24-03, 09:46 AM
Advice:
Most all contractors will not use Thompsons water seal. The next worse on the list is Behr.
Get a good penetrating oil finish with water repellancy. And as mentioned, clears offer little or no uv protection. Semi-trans are best. Don't sand - that's a last resort. You'll remove the galv finish off your nails/screws. A sodium hydroxide type stripper should remove the Behr. Rinse thoroughly or neutralize the s/h with a mild acidic wash.
Fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing.
Most all contractors will not use Thompsons water seal. The next worse on the list is Behr.
Get a good penetrating oil finish with water repellancy. And as mentioned, clears offer little or no uv protection. Semi-trans are best. Don't sand - that's a last resort. You'll remove the galv finish off your nails/screws. A sodium hydroxide type stripper should remove the Behr. Rinse thoroughly or neutralize the s/h with a mild acidic wash.
Fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing.
Cicco
02-24-03, 10:07 AM
Fortunately I've screwed in my deck boards from underneath using a braket system from Deckster. So I've got no decks screws on top. With that in mind, will sanding the product off work? I'm hesitant to use chemicals if I could use a litlte elbo grease. I can imagine having to go through a few sheets of sand paper.
Have you ever used or heard of Sikens? It claims to have soloved the issue of UV protection by using slighly pigmented stains that allows the natural wood to show and will give "some' UV protections. Like i said 4-5 years. I don't what to go through all the trouble of removing the Behr only to replace it with another product that wont do the trick. I dont mind restaining every other year. Heck, I wouldn't mind restaining even every year. Its a small deck so it wakes me a few hours.
Have you ever used or heard of Sikens? It claims to have soloved the issue of UV protection by using slighly pigmented stains that allows the natural wood to show and will give "some' UV protections. Like i said 4-5 years. I don't what to go through all the trouble of removing the Behr only to replace it with another product that wont do the trick. I dont mind restaining every other year. Heck, I wouldn't mind restaining even every year. Its a small deck so it wakes me a few hours.
fewalt
02-27-03, 06:28 AM
Cicco,
I re-read your first post. Just realized your deck is cedar.
That changes things a bit.
You can certainly sand (80grit), but the rails and ballusters will be tedious work. But since it's cedar, here's the best cleaning method: use an Oxalic acid wash - spray on, let sit awhile, and either hand scrub or pressure wash off (light pressure since cedar is soft). Oxalic acid is an organic cleaner but will still require some safety precations - eye and skin protection. And just cover any delicate plantings around the deck. The oxalic will make your cedar look like new wood for sure.
Sikkens, Cabot, and Wolman F&P were the top three(toned stains) as rated by Consumer Reports a couple years ago.
Nobody has really solved the UV problem yet, and they won't.
But you should get two or possibly three years service.
good luck,
fred
I re-read your first post. Just realized your deck is cedar.
That changes things a bit.
You can certainly sand (80grit), but the rails and ballusters will be tedious work. But since it's cedar, here's the best cleaning method: use an Oxalic acid wash - spray on, let sit awhile, and either hand scrub or pressure wash off (light pressure since cedar is soft). Oxalic acid is an organic cleaner but will still require some safety precations - eye and skin protection. And just cover any delicate plantings around the deck. The oxalic will make your cedar look like new wood for sure.
Sikkens, Cabot, and Wolman F&P were the top three(toned stains) as rated by Consumer Reports a couple years ago.
Nobody has really solved the UV problem yet, and they won't.
But you should get two or possibly three years service.
good luck,
fred