Flooring Tile - tile on asbestos

I will be installing ceramic tile in basment. The previous owner layed asbestos tiles on the floor. I dont want to mess with them, and they are pretty well secured to the floor. Would I have any problems in the future if I tile over them? And what kind of adhesive would be best?
Thanks alot

Remove the tile.

Your new job will be only as good as the adhesive used on the previous job if you don't. A very costly mistake I'd say!!!:)

OR,
cover the old tyle completely with 1/2 inch concrete backer board using a good construction adhesive.

fred

Removing intact asbestos tile is not very hazerdous. Most states allow homeowners to do it. The friable rule is with your hands. If you cannot crush it up with your hands, it is not considered friable. Do a search on asbestos tile.

That said, I would bury it under cement board fastened down with a power fastener and thinset.

I have never heard of cement backer board being approved to go over a concrete slab, covered in asbestos tile or not. Lets all ask the manufacturer of the CBU you like to use, if they approve or recommend it. Ditra can be used over concrete but, not sure about the tile. I'd try it if it were my own house. It being in rolls and not panels. Also an anti fracture sheet membrane too.

I'm with Bud on this. I have seen too many vinyl tiles pop loose in my time that looked like they where down good. A 6" putty knife slid under most old VAT tile is all it takes. Not add that this is a basement. Basements are notorious for moisture vapor emissions. The vapors have a place to escape at the tile seams. What is going to happen when you encapsulate them?

Perry,
I'll ask my two tile installer experts(friends) about the concrete backer board on a slab.

moisture vapor emissions>>>>>
what about a 6 mil vapor barrier for engineered wood in a basement, or what about sheet vinyl flooring. Isn't this encapsulating??

fred

Any moisture passing through the VAT seams would travel through the thinset and the CBU.
Remedial work in older homes in many cases must make use of materials in ways the manufacturer may not have thought of, or bothered testing for, since the market is viewed as to small. The only thing you loose is the warranty. Durabond is not tested for use repairing 2 and 3 coat plaster walls. Works great. Looks great. I know how to use lime plaster for the repairs, but it just takes to long.

"The home remodelling market " is viewed as too small???

By whom?

Does Home Depot, Lowe's, Menard's and Builders Warehouse know of this small market?:)

I know of no practical means of installing cement board on concrete. I've seen this argued back and forth on these Internet sites for years but trust me...it ain't that easy and it certainly ain't practical. :) A-n-n-n-d......installing cement board with a product such as liquid nails is the first step in defeating the purpose of the product to begin with. To say nothing of the moisture issues that arise seasonally in a basement.:D

When CBU manufacturers spout waterproof, and have proved it many times, I don't see your logic in saying the vapor emissions are going to come through it. You mean a chimney effect at the CBU seams? What happens under the center of each CBU panel?

That's like saying, I didn't have a problem until you covered it. Who's back pocket is going to feel it? Lawyers calling me daily doesn't sound like good business.

Your logic that it voids warranties, so what, scares me. Do you pray on unsuspecting, unknowledgeable homeowners? It is legal to hang people here in Texas for doing that crap.

Hey Perry,

I admittedly haven't looked at any CBU specs in a long time but I wasn't aware that any CBU manufacturers claimed their boards were "waterproof", only water resistant. None of them I know of are waterproof, hell they all wick water to some degree.

It is not the home remodeling market that is to small. It is the market to deal with things that arise like, how to lay ceramic tile over asbestos tile. The manufacturer has to run a bunch of tests to assure, at least, himself he will not have warrenty claims. He is not going to cover every possible thing under his CBU that you could find in an old house. How about a CBU on asbestos board?
If you glue the CBU down with thinset, you will have created a joint that is stronger than the CBU. My tile book says to laminate CBU with thinset for counters, floors, and if required, walls. The tile joints could still fail, but I would do it not not worry anything would move. I would never use a construction adhesive for this type of work and I did not suggest that.
CBUs are water RESISTANT, not proof.

To laminate CBUs on concrete, buy a plasteic water storage tank, a bladder. They look like a blow up toy. The one I have is 4' x 4' x 1' and holds 100 gallons. Spread thinset over the floor with a small notched trowel. Lay the bladder on the CBU and fill with water from the garden hose. Wait 24 hours. Repeat as required. I used six bladders the last time I had to do this.
I am an engineer. I solve problems like this all the time. I talk to the vendors engineers to see what they think. Often I get suggestions with a "You did not hear it here" to avoid liability. I test it myself if I have to. Where do you think the new products and methods of work come from?

:)

I stand corrected.

When the Hardie backer 500 with G2 first came out, they had waterproof in there advertizing.
I see that has changed, to resists moisture.

Thanks for making me get updated info for my records.

I think the confusion came in many years ago when USG claimed waterproof. they retracted by saying there are 2 types of waterproof
#1 water will not pass through an object
#2 Water will pass through but the material will not break down due to the presence of moisture.
So in fact if you go by #2 everyones right , it is waterproof and it isnt :)