Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - buy a new boiler or central heat/air?

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skuhrt
01-07-03, 08:31 AM
Hello everyone, My 22 year old Columbia gas boiler heats the air (via finned baseboards) and rarely the water. I'm ready for a new one. Is it better to replace the boiler with another one, or splurge for central heat/air. I live in Norfolk, Va. It's about 30 degrees outside. We suffer thru high heat and humidity in the summer. The winters aren't as bad as others but it does get cold here. I'm from CA so I am sort of sensitive to the cold even after 30 years. What do I look for in buying a boiler for my 2-story 80 year old 1500 sq foot home? What about duct work for the central heat and air? What will it cost? I have about $5000 to put into it. Thank-you for all help
SusanK


GregH
01-07-03, 11:47 AM
skuhrt:

Your best bet for a cost estimate would be best delivered by a contractor.

Don't be shy to call many different companies for proposals with a quotation in writing.

Forced air is the way to go in my opinion, if you get a good duct design.

If you provide more info about your situation a more detailed answer could likely be given.

Read the anouncement at the top of this forum for what we need to know.

skuhrt
01-07-03, 12:55 PM
Thanks for the reply. Iwent back and looked at the boiler. Here is everything I found: Columbia model FTG90A InputBtu/hr 160,000. OutputBtu/hr 128,000. SBI net output BTU/hr-water 111,300. Min relief valve cap. lbs/hr 198. Max wp water 30.
Max wp - TS. Steam 15 psi. Water 30 psi. VHS 23. SVC 198lbs. Serial #54338 1980. There is a guage which reads kpa 115, psi 116. The water temperature is set at 160 degrees. In the five and a half years we've lived here, thermocouple was replaced twice because the continous pilot would not remain lit. On Oct 4 02 unit was serviced by a contractor who cleaned and adjusted(?)
(pre-season inspection). I read a previous thread by Katelin Dec 15 2002. Same problem with the hot water. I've been adjusting the tempering valve but I know that is shot because I can feel the hot water pipe entering the valve is very hot. Coming out of the valve and to all faucets the water is barely warm (cold). Our house is of wood construction, built on a crawl space, sided in aluminum.
Walls are of lathe/plaster. I hope this helps to answer any questions. I would really like to replace the system as opposed to repair. Thanks again! susank


hvac01453
01-07-03, 09:27 PM
after the water has run for a few minutes you should have no more that 120F, I keep mine around 112F, Adjust the tempering valve or anti scald valve and measure it with the thermostat you stick in a turkey , but make this final adjustment with the water running in the kitchen sink or bath tub. Remember it takes time for the adjusted water to make it to the outlet tap. It could also be your tankless water heater is insulated with sediment.