Doors and Windows - Ive Listed instructions to replace old wood double hung windows I have some questions

I know this post is long but I copied and pasted it from msword also I am sure there are other people out there who could use this information.

I have a house that has 22 pre 50's double hung wood windows. I will begin replacing the windows in the spring, I like to prepare myself thoroughly before doing any project. The instructions listed below is the procedure I will be following to replace my windows with a vinyl window that is sized to retrofit perfectly. I have done research to obtain the information I needed to complete the project. I am very comfortable with doing the job however since this is my first window replacement project I have a few detailed questions that I would like answers to. Since this post is long I will post my questions in a new post below this one.

1. Remove the inside moldings (stops) with a broad chisel and save them for later use, being careful not to break them.
2. Any cords and weights, or spring balances can then be removed so that the old bottom wood sash can be easily removed as shown. Remove the pulleys. If the screws can't be backed out because of corrosion, stick the flathead screwdriver into the pulley and pry it out.
3. Pry out the top parting stop. Pliers can easily remove most stops.
4. Pry out the side stops - left and right. For stops that are heavily painted or stuck, you can use the broad chisel to shear off the part of the stop that protrudes into the jamb.
5. Once the parting stops are out, the upper sash can be easily removed from the outer track.
6. If the old window has preformed aluminum tracks, there will be no wood parting stops on the sides, but there will be one on top. Remove the top parting stop Then remove the staples holding the preformed track. There is also a small aluminum block on the top and bottom of the aluminum track. It too, must be removed.
7. Once the staples are removed, both the upper and lower sash-and the tracks can be removed as a single unit.
Prepare the Opening

8. Clean the opening of any debris. Cover any holes made by the weight pulleys, etc. Remove any old screen hook eyes or other protruding screws or fasteners. If there are holes left by the old weights and cords, fill the holes with batt insulation and cover with a thin metal plate or aluminum tape.
9. Install the supplied Starter Strip - Sill Angle on the outer sill, 1/8" behind the blindstop. Caulk the inside edge of the stool and outside along sill angle.
10. Install the supplied head expander on top of the window. If desired, place fiber glass batte insulation between the expander and the window. Try the window to see if the expander rests too high.The legs of the expander may need to be trimmed with a razor knife to accommodate height variations.
11. Caulk the inside edge of the blindstop along the top and down both sides. Make the caulk bead about 1/8". The bead should not lay against the window frame - just the blindstop. Place a bead of caulk on the top of the expander.
Install the New Window

12. Place the window in the caulked opening by placing the inside lower edge on the outside sill tightly against the stool. Tilt the window into the opening taking care to have the outer edge rest securely on the sill angle.
13. Check for plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). It is important that the window remain square in the opening even if the opening itself isn't square. Use flat shims to keep the window square.
14. Place the shims behind the mounting screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side at the top and bottom. Tighten the screws "finger tight." Use flat shims or non-tapered shims. Tapered shims can contort the frame which may impede smooth operation of the sash.
Note: Some windows may have a "butterfly" clip with an adjustment screw in the center of each side. This adjuster eliminates the need for shims in the center of the window. Adjust the clips "finger tight". Once the frame is anchored "finger-tight" check plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal), and square (90 degree corners) and tighten all the screws. Do not over-tighten. Secure is sufficient. If you over-tighten, the frame will deform and the window may not operate correctly or efficiently.
15. Push the head expander up tight against the upper part of the opening. Replace the upper inside molding tight against the expander. Secure the expander, if necessary, with the two small screws provided.
16. Replace the side inside moldings tight against the window. Caulk against the inside moldings and window to seal any gap. If you desire, you can replace the inside moldings.
17. Caulk outside where the sill angle meets the sill. Take care to seal any gap.
18. Caulk outside where the window meets the blindstop.
Finish the Job Inside and Outside. To complete the installation and carefully seal against the weather, it is helpful to repair any damage to the outside of the house. Fill any old storm window holes or screen holes with putty. Use a paintable caulk so you'll be able to re-finish the outside and seal it to the new window. Choose your Caulk Carefully. The caulk you choose is important. For interior use, especially if you are not going to paint, it should be a silicone-based sealant that closely matches the color of the vinyl replacement window. Exterior caulk should be a silicone based sealant if you're not. :o

I have been told to subtract 1/4" from my window measurements my blind and interior stops mate with the stiles by 1/2" is this an industry standard for sizing windows?

Line 8 mentions the area where the wights and pulleys are located for my windows ther is a large open area that the weights travel in, is it customary to fill this area with insulation or can I just seal the holes and joints?

Line 9 mentions the starter strip which i assume is the sill angle mentioned how does this mount to the sill angle is it usually screwed in or does it get permanently fastened when the window is installed?

Also when line 9 mentions installing the sill angle 1/8" behind the blind stop, (behind is a relative definition) does this mean 1/8" past the blind stop towards the outside or towards the inside of the blind stop?

What is the function of the expander in line 10? (to seal against the top of the old window frame? )

For the caulk applied to the blind stop at line 11 should I let the caulk set-up before installing the window or can it be fresh? If it is fresh don't I have to prevent the window from smearing the caulk when I install it?

Also my sashes are 1 3/4" thick each for a total of 3.5", the standard vinyl replacement windows are 3 1/4" thick this leaves a 1/4" difference, is it customary to use caulk "only" to seal the 1/4" gap (I assume this gap will be between the blind stop and the replacement window since I am instructed to butt the new window snugly against stool?

Interior Air/Moisture Seal: It is recommended that an air and moisture seal be provided on the interior side of the rough opening gap using sealant, or er Tape. To prevent drafts. heat and further reduce the potential for the formation of condensation between the wall and the new window, it is essential that the rough opening gap doesn't allow air and moisture to pass between the new window and the existing wall into the opening cavity. Could someone describe ER tape for me and possible give a suggestion what the best brand is?

I really appreciate all and any feedback that I receive regarding this thread.

How does the sill angle normally mounted to the sill?

I've clipped and pasted your questions with my answers underneath:

----How does the sill angle normally mounted to the sill?

Most I've seen doesn't attach to the sill.....they either give you some small screws to attach it to the bottom of the vinyl window or the sill "angle" is an extention pc that clips on the window bottom, then a bead of caulk at the wood sill. I generally throw this away and wrap the window with trim coil and don't need it.

-----I have been told to subtract 1/4" from my window measurements my blind and interior stops mate with the stiles by 1/2" is this an industry standard for sizing windows?

I cut an 1/8" off the width ( total ) and about 1/2" off the height from the highest point of the sill slope at the bottom of the window. ( any less and you won't be able to "swing" the arc as you set the window in the hole ) Then make SURE you order "exact size" or they will cut them 3/4" or so each way more. The only reason to make the window smaller is if you have out of square openings.

--Line 8 mentions the area where the wights and pulleys are located for my windows ther is a large open area that the weights travel in, is it customary to fill this area with insulation or can I just seal the holes and joints?

Not customary, but a dang good idea if you're doing your own. Means you have to pull the inside or outside casing to get acess to the hole, but I'd do it on MY house.

--Line 9 mentions the starter strip which i assume is the sill angle mentioned how does this mount to the sill angle is it usually screwed in or does it get permanently fastened when the window is installed?

See above

Also when line 9 mentions installing the sill angle 1/8" behind the blind stop, (behind is a relative definition) does this mean 1/8" past the blind stop towards the outside or towards the inside of the blind stop?

--What is the function of the expander in line 10? (to seal against the top of the old window frame? )

It's for idiots that can't measure :)......really, the only time I use it is in the case of a real out of square opening...and even then, you have to run screws up thru the header of the vinyl window to get the fool thing to stay up there tight....nope...throw it away....I pick the new window up tight to the top and leave any excess space at the bottom, then stuff that with fiberglass insulation.


--For the caulk applied to the blind stop at line 11 should I let the caulk set-up before installing the window or can it be fresh? If it is fresh don't I have to prevent the window from smearing the caulk when I install it?


This is idiot advice given by someone that probably never installed one....and you've already picked up on the problem....put the dang window in, secure it, THEN caulk the inside where it meets the jamb, and outside where it meets the storm stop. WHERE DO they come up with this stuff :)


---Also my sashes are 1 3/4" thick each for a total of 3.5", the standard vinyl replacement windows are 3 1/4" thick this leaves a 1/4" difference, is it customary to use caulk "only" to seal the 1/4" gap (I assume this gap will be between the blind stop and the replacement window since I am instructed to butt the new window snugly against stool?

I'd double check that, as it would be VERY unusual.....I've put in 20,000 or so replacements and never seen that....have seen thinner, but not thicker....But if that's the case, I'd be tempted to either have a pc of 1/4" by 1/2" lumber ready to tack either to the inside of the sill ( IF you can move your inside stops forward that 1/4" when you reinstall them ) or line the inside of the storm stop with that shim material to take up the difference.

--Interior Air/Moisture Seal: It is recommended that an air and moisture seal be provided on the interior side of the rough opening gap using sealant, or er Tape. To prevent drafts. heat and further reduce the potential for the formation of condensation between the wall and the new window, it is essential that the rough opening gap doesn't allow air and moisture to pass between the new window and the existing wall into the opening cavity. Could someone describe ER tape for me and possible give a suggestion what the best brand is?

Never heard of this in a replacement situation....you don't have a "rough opening" as such like a new window in new construction.....where the heck are they proposing you place this tape ??? Sounds like more ivory tower baloney....


One other thing.....the side expander "butterfly" clips or whatever method the window maker uses are generally a joke......windows under 40" high generally don't need anything, taller ones, I run another 2-3" screw in the side jamb to hold the jamb exactly where I want it to stay....just be sure to mount the screw where it doesn't interfere with the shoe travel on the sash.

Thank you very much for the pointers this is invaluable advice, I really appreciate it. ;)