Kitchen Gas Appliances - Oven Door Problem
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Trinityv
12-25-02, 06:54 PM
Merry Christmas !
We have a Tappan Stove/Oven M#30-2239-23-02.
Ser#80065216.
I think I have a door hing assembly problem.
The door won't shut tightly (about 1" gap at top). Their seems to a grinding sound around the metal hing and there is no feeling of spring to force the door shut.
I have on idea how to repove the door or door hing assembly on this Tappan to see if any damage is present to the hing or spring.
Any info you offer would be appreciated.
Thanks
Always in God's time,
David M
We have a Tappan Stove/Oven M#30-2239-23-02.
Ser#80065216.
I think I have a door hing assembly problem.
The door won't shut tightly (about 1" gap at top). Their seems to a grinding sound around the metal hing and there is no feeling of spring to force the door shut.
I have on idea how to repove the door or door hing assembly on this Tappan to see if any damage is present to the hing or spring.
Any info you offer would be appreciated.
Thanks
Always in God's time,
David M
Sharp Advice
12-25-02, 10:02 PM
Hello David M. and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances forum.
Take off the oven doors by opening them partially and lifting them straight upwards. Doing so will remove them from the lever arms.
Some oven doors have tiny levers on the door which must be raised first, before the door can be raised up and lifted off.
The problem is the springs and or the brackets may be broken. The springs and brackets are behind the panels in the lower broiler compartment. There should be access panels which must be removed to gain access to the brackets and springs.
To further complicate matters, some stoves with ovens, often called freestanding ranges/stoves, the compartment access panels are difficult to remove. Or the range has several panels beneath the door which must be accessed and removed.
Another possible and potential problem could be installing a close but not exact duplicate of parts. Try to obtain exact duplicates.
Door gaskets most likely will also need to be replaced.
Your local appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for this appliance. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
Oven door help web site:
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven-hinges.html
Regards & Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
Gas Appliances Forum Moderator
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Take off the oven doors by opening them partially and lifting them straight upwards. Doing so will remove them from the lever arms.
Some oven doors have tiny levers on the door which must be raised first, before the door can be raised up and lifted off.
The problem is the springs and or the brackets may be broken. The springs and brackets are behind the panels in the lower broiler compartment. There should be access panels which must be removed to gain access to the brackets and springs.
To further complicate matters, some stoves with ovens, often called freestanding ranges/stoves, the compartment access panels are difficult to remove. Or the range has several panels beneath the door which must be accessed and removed.
Another possible and potential problem could be installing a close but not exact duplicate of parts. Try to obtain exact duplicates.
Door gaskets most likely will also need to be replaced.
Your local appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for this appliance. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
Oven door help web site:
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven-hinges.html
Regards & Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
Gas Appliances Forum Moderator
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Trinityv
12-26-02, 07:16 AM
Merry Christmas, Tom
Thanks for the info, however I did read other oven door problems like mine . . .
I have tried pulling straight up and this is not working. Could something stop this from happening?
Are all oven doors made the same ?
One of the reasons I included the M# & Ser# was maybe this unit was made different and you would know ?
I would love to tackle this problem myself and not call a repair person.
Any more info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Always in God's time
David M
Thanks for the info, however I did read other oven door problems like mine . . .
I have tried pulling straight up and this is not working. Could something stop this from happening?
Are all oven doors made the same ?
One of the reasons I included the M# & Ser# was maybe this unit was made different and you would know ?
I would love to tackle this problem myself and not call a repair person.
Any more info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Always in God's time
David M
Sharp Advice
12-26-02, 09:33 PM
Hello David
Re read the second paragraph of my first reply. Some doors have small locking levers which must be raised before the oven door can be removed.
Straight up off the hindges with the door partially opened.
Visit the oven door help web site. Copy and paste the web address into your computers address bar. Doing so should provide you with the information needed.
Regards & Good Luck
Tom_B
Re read the second paragraph of my first reply. Some doors have small locking levers which must be raised before the oven door can be removed.
Straight up off the hindges with the door partially opened.
Visit the oven door help web site. Copy and paste the web address into your computers address bar. Doing so should provide you with the information needed.
Regards & Good Luck
Tom_B
Slumlord
01-17-03, 12:08 PM
Hello David,
I have a Tappan 30-3647-23 02 stove and had the exact same problem you are/were having. It was actually funny that I saw this post because the problem then became a world issue and I had to solve it :D
Assuming our stoves are constructed the same way. Open the door and you should see a screw head on both sides of the door right above the hinges. Take out those screws, open the door a little and pull the door away from the hinges. Do it when the door is as vertical as possible so your hinges don't have far to travel when they quickly go vertical when the door is removed. Then inspect the hinges. Pull each arm down towards the floor to simulate door movement. You should feel resistance. If you don't, your spring is busted and you need to replace the hinge mechanism. (I think you'll find your springs are fine) If you do feel resistance, then bring it back up slowly and the hinge should stop just short of being COMPLETELY vertical. Then tap on the hinge a couple of times keeping your fingers out of the area between the hinge arm and the stove. The arm should snap into a position COMPLETELY vertical. Then do the other side. It turns out that there is a stopper in the guide that the hinge runs into during normal operation. This prevents the door from slamming when closing the oven door. The problem with my stove was the guide of the hinge on one side was completely gone so the piece of metal just jammed into the stopper and wasn't allowed to go completely vertical. To see what I'm talking about, get one of those small mirrors on a stick and a flashlight, open up the side of the stove by removing the sheetmetal screws enough to get a hand in there and look around.
Now here's the fun part, once you find which hinge mechanism is bad, you'll have to get a new one at the local parts store. It will cost you about $40 with tax, comes as a complete unit with spring and all, and the store I went to had it in stock.
Installation is incredibly easy. The hinge is held on with 3 screws. One in the middle and one at each end. Unscrew the three, the hinge comes right out through the back. Slide the new one in, tighten all three screws. Put the side of the stove back on. Put the door back on and you should be good to go.
My only regret is I didn't do it sooner.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Slumlord -
:)
I have a Tappan 30-3647-23 02 stove and had the exact same problem you are/were having. It was actually funny that I saw this post because the problem then became a world issue and I had to solve it :D
Assuming our stoves are constructed the same way. Open the door and you should see a screw head on both sides of the door right above the hinges. Take out those screws, open the door a little and pull the door away from the hinges. Do it when the door is as vertical as possible so your hinges don't have far to travel when they quickly go vertical when the door is removed. Then inspect the hinges. Pull each arm down towards the floor to simulate door movement. You should feel resistance. If you don't, your spring is busted and you need to replace the hinge mechanism. (I think you'll find your springs are fine) If you do feel resistance, then bring it back up slowly and the hinge should stop just short of being COMPLETELY vertical. Then tap on the hinge a couple of times keeping your fingers out of the area between the hinge arm and the stove. The arm should snap into a position COMPLETELY vertical. Then do the other side. It turns out that there is a stopper in the guide that the hinge runs into during normal operation. This prevents the door from slamming when closing the oven door. The problem with my stove was the guide of the hinge on one side was completely gone so the piece of metal just jammed into the stopper and wasn't allowed to go completely vertical. To see what I'm talking about, get one of those small mirrors on a stick and a flashlight, open up the side of the stove by removing the sheetmetal screws enough to get a hand in there and look around.
Now here's the fun part, once you find which hinge mechanism is bad, you'll have to get a new one at the local parts store. It will cost you about $40 with tax, comes as a complete unit with spring and all, and the store I went to had it in stock.
Installation is incredibly easy. The hinge is held on with 3 screws. One in the middle and one at each end. Unscrew the three, the hinge comes right out through the back. Slide the new one in, tighten all three screws. Put the side of the stove back on. Put the door back on and you should be good to go.
My only regret is I didn't do it sooner.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Slumlord -
:)
Trinityv
01-17-03, 05:37 PM
Thanks for all your help.
Slumlord you are correct.
I did have to pay about $38 for the part.
And thanks to all who helped the part was replaced with no problems.
DM
Slumlord you are correct.
I did have to pay about $38 for the part.
And thanks to all who helped the part was replaced with no problems.
DM