Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Need Help!
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chestnut
12-25-02, 04:17 PM
Merry Christmas! Working hard installing shower during the holidays but am confused by something:
The pan is 42x42 and instructions say to install directly to the studs then sheet rock over the little lip, making them flush. I have two 42x42 panels to install after that. But after the sheetrock is done, the panels will be sticking out farther (on each wall) than the pan. Could that be right? Should the panels be trimmed? This doesn't make sense to me. Thanks!
The pan is 42x42 and instructions say to install directly to the studs then sheet rock over the little lip, making them flush. I have two 42x42 panels to install after that. But after the sheetrock is done, the panels will be sticking out farther (on each wall) than the pan. Could that be right? Should the panels be trimmed? This doesn't make sense to me. Thanks!
Mike Swearingen
12-25-02, 05:04 PM
A. I'm not a pro at this.
B. I would use greenboard or cement board instead of regular sheetrock in this application.
C. How thick is the sheetrock that you're planning on putting behind the panels?
If you use a thinner thickness, it should fit flush down over the pan lip.
Good Luck!
Mike
B. I would use greenboard or cement board instead of regular sheetrock in this application.
C. How thick is the sheetrock that you're planning on putting behind the panels?
If you use a thinner thickness, it should fit flush down over the pan lip.
Good Luck!
Mike
chestnut
12-25-02, 05:56 PM
I don't think I explained myself correctly.
The thickness of the sheetrock is not the issue. It will be flush with the lip of the base. The problem is that the base is 42" including the lip portion. If the sheetrock meets the lip, that is making the base's width shorter. Now the panel is still 42" wide from sheetrock to outer end, making it come out farther then the end of the base.
The thickness of the sheetrock is not the issue. It will be flush with the lip of the base. The problem is that the base is 42" including the lip portion. If the sheetrock meets the lip, that is making the base's width shorter. Now the panel is still 42" wide from sheetrock to outer end, making it come out farther then the end of the base.
Doug Aleshire
12-25-02, 06:18 PM
chestnut,
I guess Old Guy is stuck....so here is the professional answer to your problem.
First it is NOT RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER TO USE GREENBAORD WITHIN A WET AREA - SHOWER OR BATHTUB. Should tha caulking fail at any point, the greenboard will rapidly be destroyed, even faster if vapor barrier is placed behind it. It is best to use Durock (cement board backer). Should a small crack appear within your corner caulking and at the edges you'll not have to tear out everything. ***Routinely check all caulked areas to ensure that it is sound - maybe every 2 months***
When installing a prefab shower base, it is to be connected to the studs with fasteners - preferably screws. The shower base itself regardless of the brand should have mortar or joint compound poured underneath it before setting the base to ensure that the base is solid and that it doesn't give. You do not want any movement between the base and drain pipe/seal.
Once you have done all this and I fear that it has not been done, a vapor barrier can be applied over the studs, punch some nail size holes in it, BETWEEN THE STUDS (new trick that I was told about) This keeps the wood dry in event there might be a problem but allows air movement. Alternative is to staple 15# felt directly to the studs. The cement backer board is applied over all this, applied with screws. YES, it will protrude 1/2" into the shower and YES, the new wall panels will protrude another 1/2" into the shower. Now you ask, what happens to my shower controls - If you didn't plan for all this, they may have to be moved forward to install the face plate and handles.
The new panels that you got should be resting on the shower base, since it is heavy and this will be caulked to enhance the appearance and keep everything dry even though the shower base flange that was used in attaching to the walls acts as water diverter. The Durock should be about 1/4" above the shower base.
The issue of the finishing the top is simple - if you installed 1/2" drywall above the shower stall height, then simple caulking of the cultered paneles can be done with no problem because the Durock is attached directly to the studs.
Only issue is what you had planned for a shower door/curtain. Again, Durorck on the frame and finish as you desire.
Hope this all helps, let me know!
I guess Old Guy is stuck....so here is the professional answer to your problem.
First it is NOT RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER TO USE GREENBAORD WITHIN A WET AREA - SHOWER OR BATHTUB. Should tha caulking fail at any point, the greenboard will rapidly be destroyed, even faster if vapor barrier is placed behind it. It is best to use Durock (cement board backer). Should a small crack appear within your corner caulking and at the edges you'll not have to tear out everything. ***Routinely check all caulked areas to ensure that it is sound - maybe every 2 months***
When installing a prefab shower base, it is to be connected to the studs with fasteners - preferably screws. The shower base itself regardless of the brand should have mortar or joint compound poured underneath it before setting the base to ensure that the base is solid and that it doesn't give. You do not want any movement between the base and drain pipe/seal.
Once you have done all this and I fear that it has not been done, a vapor barrier can be applied over the studs, punch some nail size holes in it, BETWEEN THE STUDS (new trick that I was told about) This keeps the wood dry in event there might be a problem but allows air movement. Alternative is to staple 15# felt directly to the studs. The cement backer board is applied over all this, applied with screws. YES, it will protrude 1/2" into the shower and YES, the new wall panels will protrude another 1/2" into the shower. Now you ask, what happens to my shower controls - If you didn't plan for all this, they may have to be moved forward to install the face plate and handles.
The new panels that you got should be resting on the shower base, since it is heavy and this will be caulked to enhance the appearance and keep everything dry even though the shower base flange that was used in attaching to the walls acts as water diverter. The Durock should be about 1/4" above the shower base.
The issue of the finishing the top is simple - if you installed 1/2" drywall above the shower stall height, then simple caulking of the cultered paneles can be done with no problem because the Durock is attached directly to the studs.
Only issue is what you had planned for a shower door/curtain. Again, Durorck on the frame and finish as you desire.
Hope this all helps, let me know!
chestnut
12-25-02, 07:07 PM
Hey thanks, and don't worry, I had not set the base yet and have already planned on using mortar and screws.
Thanks for the tip on a vapor barrier between the studs, that helps a lot.
I have all my ducks in a row for shower doors, shower head, fixtures, etc.
What I have discovered since the last time I wrote was that there is supposed to be a left panel and a right panel. One is 3/8" shorter to prevent it from not sticking out further than the base (not talking about in the shower). I am talking about the panels being longer than the base, width wise. My contractor did not order the correct things. :(
Thanks for the tip on a vapor barrier between the studs, that helps a lot.
I have all my ducks in a row for shower doors, shower head, fixtures, etc.
What I have discovered since the last time I wrote was that there is supposed to be a left panel and a right panel. One is 3/8" shorter to prevent it from not sticking out further than the base (not talking about in the shower). I am talking about the panels being longer than the base, width wise. My contractor did not order the correct things. :(
chestnut
12-25-02, 07:14 PM
After ready my dilemma, do you know if there is a way to trim cultured marble panels without damaging them?
Doug Aleshire
12-25-02, 07:47 PM
Chestnut,
Panel should be well supported and use a masonry blade on a circular saw. Cut from the back side of the panel. Use masking tape around the cutting area to avoid damage to panel. Cutting Marble/Onyx is similar to cutting hardwood.
You may want to consult your contractor on this if needed. Hope all goes well now. (I did get some sleep!! LOL)
Merry Xmas!!
Panel should be well supported and use a masonry blade on a circular saw. Cut from the back side of the panel. Use masking tape around the cutting area to avoid damage to panel. Cutting Marble/Onyx is similar to cutting hardwood.
You may want to consult your contractor on this if needed. Hope all goes well now. (I did get some sleep!! LOL)
Merry Xmas!!