Flooring Tile - first time table tiler

I recently bought a 2nd hand table with fabulous black leather benches and I thought the table top would be just as fabulous if I tiled it black and white.

I have never done anything like this before (just some light furniture refinishing) so I searched all over this forum for the steps to make my dream come true.

Can someone help me?!?! Since I'm so new to this I need step-by-step instructions on what I need and how to tile a laminated drop leaf table.

sounds like a fun project. I'm doing some guessing here so bear with me while I ramble.
The tile is going to add some weight to the drop leaves.
The layout will have to put grout joints where the leaves drop which of course won't be grouted.
The adhesive cannot contain water which would react with the vennier.--- Consider using a urethane based caulk/adhesive or a urethane adhesive used to install wood flooring over concrete.
Possibly silicone adhesive?????

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don't use regular grout------- there are special silicone caulks that are used in the tile industry for "grouting" , not the regular stuff you buy at the hardware store.
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This is a starting point, I'm looking forward to reading other ideas for this project.
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I just re-read your post--- you said "laminated" didn't you-- do you mean like formica ???-----same suggestions still apply.

Thanks so much for the quick reply and early suggestions. As to the question do I mean formica...I think so.
The table top doesn't match the other wood pieces in the set it looks like plastic faux wood most likely covering plywood, I assume.

Go to the archives and search "ceramic tile countertop" and you'll find a number of posts with useful info.

Thank you so much Tow Guy I read almost everything there was in the past posts and learned alot.
Maybe someone has an answer to this tricky question before I get started. Is there a specific tile, epoxy, or grout that I should use to minimize the weight of my project? The drop leaves are a major reason I bought the table and I need them to continue to function. Is tiling not a good idea on this specific piece, or are there ways to make it light-weight?

You may find some tile that is a LITTLE lighter than others, but overall it will be a heavy project as WJS noted. The adhesive and grout used will not be a major factor in the weight. The weight on the drop-leaf sections would be the major concern (other than the leg strength to support the entire table); so you will have to make a judgement call on that and it will depend on the type of support the leaf has and if it is sufficient for the additional weight.

Weight/////////////////////////////

Standard wall tile is about 3 lbs / sq ft

Most floor tiles are about 3 1/2 lbs / sq ft

Quarry tile 1/2" thick about 5 lbs / sq ft

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I'd avoid portland cement based thinset and grout for this project.
Movement is the primary reason but the added weight is another.

There are epoxys used in conventional tile work that would perform excellently for this project BUT cost is also a consideration . You are only doing maybe 20 sq ft and most regular tile epoxys are designed for big jobs.
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We have been playing at work making tile displays and have found urethane construction adhesive in a caulking tube for less than $ 3.00. Today we used one tube to bond 8 sq ft of 16 x 16
marble tiles to MDF board and it bonds great--- just don't get it on your hands-- you will stick to yourself.
In the past we used: liquid nails, tile mastic,latex modified thinset,
on plywood and were never happy with the results because we were making movable displays that get twisted a little causing an adhesive failure.
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I'll still recomend silicone tile caulking for the joints.