Doors and Windows - Installing pre-hung doors
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bullwinkle
12-15-02, 11:13 AM
I am new at home repairs and would appreciate some advice and assistance. I bought 3 pre-hung doors to install. Now, what do I do? I will finish the trim before I install. Then, is the trim removed before installation? Or does the door fit with the trim in place? Do I need to plane the bottom, by measuring the length, before installation? A step by step guide from someone would be helpful? Thank you!
Tn...Andy
12-15-02, 04:50 PM
Interior or exterior doors ?
Chrisjfox
12-15-02, 09:36 PM
If the doors come with the casing already attached to one side and the casing mitered and assembled loose for the other side, you will save some time. Leave the casing (trim) on the one side.
1. Check the door for height and width to the opening. If the door is too tall for the opening it can usually be cut down about 1/2" and the jamb cut also with out any problem - if it needs to be cut more than 1/2", the door may have to be reblocked at the bottom. To cut the door and jamb, take the door apart from the jamb and cut as needed. Then cut the jamb, remembering to leave the jamb longer than the door so as to allow for flooring under the door. (Maintain the same difference that was on the jamb before cutting).
2. Check the opening to see that it is plumb (especially the side on which hinges rest on, see step #4 - also you must deteremine if the floor is level directly under both sides of the frame. If one side is higher or lower, the bottom of the jamb will have to be cut as to difference in the floor. Also check that the frame is even at the bottom, see step #9 for what will happen if it is not in line).
3. Determine what type of flooring will go under the door and if you have the room you can raise the jamb in order for the flooring to go under the jamb. (Remember that if the flooing changes, say from one color carpeting to another or carpet to tile, from one room to the other the transition is usually made under the door in the closed position. This may dertermine the heigth).
4. Use shims to plumb the hinge side of the frame as needed but do not over shim so as to make the opening to small for the door. Place the shims so that they will be directly behind the hinges when the door is in place.
5. Place the door in the opening with the hinge side of the jamb plumb and tight to the frame you can use case hardened trim nails 2 1/2" in length to nail the jamb in to the frame (use one nail 1/2" above each of the hinges - checking to make sure the side of the jamb without the casing on is flush with the finished wall).
6. With the door shut and standing on the side of the door where the hinges are not visable check that the top of the door has an equal gap all along the top. Then using case hardened trim nails, 1 1/2", put a tack nail through the casing on the knob side at the top. (if the casing is attached to the other side you may need someone to nail while you make sure the gap is mantained).
7. You can then move down the casing on the knob side, tack nailing about every 16" and maintaining a gap approxamately equal to the gap on top.
8. The door should now open and close smoothly. If the door is a solid core door you can remove a screw in the top jamb hinge (preferably, a screw closest to the center of the jamb) and replace it with a long screw that will go through the jamb and solidly in to the frame behind. This will help hold the weight of the door.
9. At this point if you notice that the door is not closing tightly against the door stop you may have to adjust the stop in or out slightly to get an even fit. *(Anything more than 1/4" means the frame was not in line at the bottom)
10. To finish, shim and nail the knob side of the jamb so that it will not move should the door slam shut. Finish nailing the casing on the top and hinge side and then attach the loose casing, first to the jamb, using a small case hardened nail approx. 1" or as needed for the thickness of the casing and then to the wall approx. every 16" as in step #7
1. Check the door for height and width to the opening. If the door is too tall for the opening it can usually be cut down about 1/2" and the jamb cut also with out any problem - if it needs to be cut more than 1/2", the door may have to be reblocked at the bottom. To cut the door and jamb, take the door apart from the jamb and cut as needed. Then cut the jamb, remembering to leave the jamb longer than the door so as to allow for flooring under the door. (Maintain the same difference that was on the jamb before cutting).
2. Check the opening to see that it is plumb (especially the side on which hinges rest on, see step #4 - also you must deteremine if the floor is level directly under both sides of the frame. If one side is higher or lower, the bottom of the jamb will have to be cut as to difference in the floor. Also check that the frame is even at the bottom, see step #9 for what will happen if it is not in line).
3. Determine what type of flooring will go under the door and if you have the room you can raise the jamb in order for the flooring to go under the jamb. (Remember that if the flooing changes, say from one color carpeting to another or carpet to tile, from one room to the other the transition is usually made under the door in the closed position. This may dertermine the heigth).
4. Use shims to plumb the hinge side of the frame as needed but do not over shim so as to make the opening to small for the door. Place the shims so that they will be directly behind the hinges when the door is in place.
5. Place the door in the opening with the hinge side of the jamb plumb and tight to the frame you can use case hardened trim nails 2 1/2" in length to nail the jamb in to the frame (use one nail 1/2" above each of the hinges - checking to make sure the side of the jamb without the casing on is flush with the finished wall).
6. With the door shut and standing on the side of the door where the hinges are not visable check that the top of the door has an equal gap all along the top. Then using case hardened trim nails, 1 1/2", put a tack nail through the casing on the knob side at the top. (if the casing is attached to the other side you may need someone to nail while you make sure the gap is mantained).
7. You can then move down the casing on the knob side, tack nailing about every 16" and maintaining a gap approxamately equal to the gap on top.
8. The door should now open and close smoothly. If the door is a solid core door you can remove a screw in the top jamb hinge (preferably, a screw closest to the center of the jamb) and replace it with a long screw that will go through the jamb and solidly in to the frame behind. This will help hold the weight of the door.
9. At this point if you notice that the door is not closing tightly against the door stop you may have to adjust the stop in or out slightly to get an even fit. *(Anything more than 1/4" means the frame was not in line at the bottom)
10. To finish, shim and nail the knob side of the jamb so that it will not move should the door slam shut. Finish nailing the casing on the top and hinge side and then attach the loose casing, first to the jamb, using a small case hardened nail approx. 1" or as needed for the thickness of the casing and then to the wall approx. every 16" as in step #7