Carpentry and Woodworking - Use of MDF in cabinet building
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joeperi
12-11-02, 06:57 AM
I am interested in using MDF board for a bookcase that I am building. I plan to paint it so MDF is a good choice. I am unsure, however, as to when to use it versus a hardwood for strength. I plan to make several 24x11 doors and certainly will make the raised panels out of MDF. Can I also make the rails and stiles out of MDF or should I use a hardwood? What about book case sides or shelves? Is there a "rule of thumb" for using or not using MDF?
chfite
12-11-02, 07:26 AM
Rules of thumb.....
MDF does poorly on a span unless supported all the way around or reinforced. Book shelves would have to be somewhat small to not sag unless the MDF was quite thick.
MDF is dense and consequently quite heavy compared to plywoods. Completed items can be a challenge to move.
Working MDF makes more fine dust than you can imagine. State of the art dust collection is in order.
MDF does poorly with water. I would recommend priming with Zinser or shellac or someother alkyd primer before finishing with latex paint. This would avoid having do deal with the MDF absorbing the water from the latex product applied to the raw MDF.
MDF is nice to work. The edges are sharp and clean because of the composition of fine particles bound together. This will also destroy your high speed steel tools. Without carbide tips, tools won't last very long.
MDF will not take fasteners as readily and as well as wood. Drilling pilot holes and gluing joints will aid in success.
Making cabinet doors of MDF will be OK, just remember to take care in mounting the hinges. The screws may tear out, otherwise.
The cases will be OK in MDF. I would not make the shelves from MDF, unless I was sure about the span and width for the load intended.
Last rule of thumb...avoid using MDF. I just dislike having to wrestle this heavy product.
MDF does poorly on a span unless supported all the way around or reinforced. Book shelves would have to be somewhat small to not sag unless the MDF was quite thick.
MDF is dense and consequently quite heavy compared to plywoods. Completed items can be a challenge to move.
Working MDF makes more fine dust than you can imagine. State of the art dust collection is in order.
MDF does poorly with water. I would recommend priming with Zinser or shellac or someother alkyd primer before finishing with latex paint. This would avoid having do deal with the MDF absorbing the water from the latex product applied to the raw MDF.
MDF is nice to work. The edges are sharp and clean because of the composition of fine particles bound together. This will also destroy your high speed steel tools. Without carbide tips, tools won't last very long.
MDF will not take fasteners as readily and as well as wood. Drilling pilot holes and gluing joints will aid in success.
Making cabinet doors of MDF will be OK, just remember to take care in mounting the hinges. The screws may tear out, otherwise.
The cases will be OK in MDF. I would not make the shelves from MDF, unless I was sure about the span and width for the load intended.
Last rule of thumb...avoid using MDF. I just dislike having to wrestle this heavy product.
Pendragon
12-12-02, 10:11 PM
MDF is good for making speaker boxes (because it is SO dense), but not much else. Do yourself a favor and avoid using particulated material for cabinets, bookshelves or anything that will visible and used.
And as already mentioned, it's very heavy (and also expensive).
And as already mentioned, it's very heavy (and also expensive).
fewalt
12-13-02, 06:32 AM
Well, I guess it is all relative.
I built an MDF shelf unit for my wife's kitchen - 4 ft wide by 4ft. high - sits on a counter between the cabinets and fridge.
It's faced with 3/16 inch oak strips stained to match the cabinets.
A small microwave even sits on one 20 inch shelf - no sagging. The shelves are all dadoed in. The balance of shelves mostly hold Longabergers. 1' x 4' shelves are only a few bucks. As mentioned earlier, any screws for mdf should be non-tapered.
fred
I built an MDF shelf unit for my wife's kitchen - 4 ft wide by 4ft. high - sits on a counter between the cabinets and fridge.
It's faced with 3/16 inch oak strips stained to match the cabinets.
A small microwave even sits on one 20 inch shelf - no sagging. The shelves are all dadoed in. The balance of shelves mostly hold Longabergers. 1' x 4' shelves are only a few bucks. As mentioned earlier, any screws for mdf should be non-tapered.
fred