Kitchen Gas Appliances - Dryer No Heat

My Whirlpool gas dryer model # LDI570 (probably between 20 and 25 years old ) leaves clothes wet. The ignitor (flat surface glo type) comes on and after a few seconds it ignites the burner flame. The burner will come on and burn for 2 or 3 min. then burner goes off. The ignitor comes back on but gas never comes on and a solenoid on the gas valve will click and ignitor shuts down. After everything appears to cool off the ignitor will come on again and again will ignite burner but shuts down again in 2 or 3 min. when the burner shuts down I can short across thermostat ( I take to be the operating thermostat ) then the ignitor ignites the burner again and the burner will stay on until I remove the short. (?)
As best I can remember this is the first trouble I have had with this dryer. Help !
pppierce

Hello pppierce. Welcome to my Gas Appliances forum.

The first check that needs to be done for the condition described is to remove the exhaust venting system entirely. Than check the burner while the dryer is drying clothes.

If the venting system is restricted, the problem you are describing will happen. Once the venting system is off and the dryer tested while in operation and the problem does not reoccur, the venting system is the problem.

If the problem is still the same, than it may be the solenoids causing the problem. There are two, both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!

Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your describing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.

The only positive method to be sure any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.

An excellent source for orginal replacement parts is your local retail appliance parts store. Appliance parts dealers test and carry replacement parts for all appliances. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Retail parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers if you stop in at the store. The info will help to determine the exact parts used in the model assembly line run and possible problem causes.

Read the other postings having the same or like dryer problems to determine the possible problem causes, testing proceedures and correction methods. The forum has many other questions on this topic of no heat in a dryer.

Should you require additional assistance, need to post additional updated information or care to post any final conclusion results, kindly use the REPLY button.

By doing so, the additional information you add will remain within this posting {Thread} and allow the other readers of this topic to follow the topic and allow me to post any further helpful advice and suggestions.

Regards & Good Luck.
Gas Appliances Forum Moderator & Web Site Host.
Energy Conservation Consultant & Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Hello Tom_Bartco, In my original post I stated that when the burner would shut down I could short across a themostat (which I took as the operating thermostat but don't know for sure) the ignitor would lite the burner and it would stay on til I removed the short. Could you comment on this?
thanks pppierce

Hello: ppp

You're correct on one point. However, for your information I did read that part about your shorting across a part to get the burner to remain on. I simply choose to ignore it.

There is no way for me to exactly determine what part you're jumping across simply by your description of ithe part or the term used to describe it.

In your own words: "I could short across a themostat (which I took as the operating thermostat but don't know for sure)" This statement indicates your not sure, which leaves me no other choice as a pro but to avoid all aspects of the questions.

In doing so on my part would not be acknowledging, suggesting or recommending by addessing that part of the question nor suggesting the jumping across any part to get a desired results and does not suggest nor indicate the part is the problem. As a pro I could not even indicate doing so in all cases.

Overriding a system by jumping across the part could very well be a safety device or other similar system. If you think the part is the exact cause of the problem, you can replace it, have it tested and determined by a pro to be the cause.

I do not suggest jumping any unknown part to anyone for any purpose except as a test procedure. And this is done only in some cases where danger is not an obvious concern.

You have done the testing and now comes the time to take some type of correction action.

VIP INFO:
An excellent source for orginal replacement parts is your local retail appliance parts store. Appliance parts dealers test and carry replacement parts for all appliances. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book.

Retail parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. The info will help to determine the exact parts used in the model assembly line run and possible problem causes.

Good Luck. TCB4U2B2B.
Gas Appliances Forum Moderator, Web Site Host & Multiple Topic
Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.