Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - Used Motorcycle Purchase

I am currently in the market for a used dirt bike. I am specifically looking for a 1998 or newer Honda CR 250. I am not intimately familiar with dirt bike mechanics. I understand how they work and how to work on them but I have not been around them long enough to know what to look for and why, when making a used bike purchase. So the big questions that I have are:

When I go to look at prospective bikes what should I look for and be wary of?

What are tell tale signs of abuse and poor maintenance?

What type of things should I buy for the bike right off the bat to properly maintain it?

What type of repairs should I expect to encounter when I purchase the bike?

All of your input is appreciated and needed.

On a 2 stroke, the first thing that comes to mind is engine compression. get a compression tester, and screw it in the spark plug hole and kick her over a time or 2 and compare the results to mfr's specs. Hate to spend big bucks for a bike that needs to be rebuilt at square one. Also take it out for a spin, many problems may show up there. good luck!!
STIMPY21

Hello IWD1, STIMPY21 beat me to the first thing I would do. Most of the chain auto parts stores have a tool loan program if you don't have a tester. Check the condition of the rear sprockets teeth and check the chain for side to side slack. Not that replacing a chain and sprocket is a big deal but someone who would run a bike with the sprocket teeth leaning into the wind and a chain that is worn out would abuse the bike in other ways. Take your time and shift slowly through the gears to see how smooth shifting is. Wind each gear up pretty well and hold a moment to check for ignition breakdown which may only happen when the engine is very warm. If there is excessive smoke beware. I know you are looking at fairly new bikes but I always take a flash light with me and check the condition of the fuel tank for rust or other debri.....Mike

I agree with the previous posts 100%. In addition I'd look for kinked or hard working cables and suspension seal leaks. Riding conditions such as mud or sand along with pressure washers are extremely hard on bearings,seals, and brakes. Bikes that are ridden competively are usually ridden harder but maintained better than trail ride bikes. When you get the bike a day spent changing filters and lubricants and pulling the wheels to check bearings and brakes would be time well spent and you'll get to know the bike better. There's nothing more fun than bringing home a new motorcycle!

I really appreciate the insight that all of you have given me. With this information I feel more confident and comfortable about shopping for this bike and spending my money.

I have purchased/rebuild a dozen bikes and here's what I look for:

(1) Make sure that the previous owner DID NOT start it and warm it up before you got there. A worn out engine with low compression will start easier when warm. I never take an owners word for it, a 2 stroke can have relatively good compression and still be shot. Most manuals tell you, 8 hours of racing put rings in it, 20 hours put a piston in it. I put piston/rings/wrist pin/wrist pin bearing in it right away for <$200. Remember, a piston left in too long can develop skirt cracks, if it breaks you don't want to know what happens. If the bike was raced, it was revved..rebuild it.
(2) Ride it and make sure that the clutch doesn't engage at the last little bit of the handle release. This indicates a worn clutch and will cost you $130
(3) Grab the chain and pull it up hard. Watch the swing arm bearings when you do it to be sure that the swingarm doesnt clunk forward and back
(4) Wiggle both wheels looking for play in the wheel bearings
(5) wiggle the kick starter looking for play, bigger bores especially eat them up ($70-$100)
(6) Lift the bike and make sure that there is no up/down play in the shock and swingarm bushings
(7) push down and release the seat quickly, the bike should rebound smoothly and not pogo. This would indicate a bad shock or if your lucky a guy who doesn't know how to adjust one
(8) look at the brakes and rotors, pads are cheap but worn pads will eat a $120 rotor
(9) check the chain and sprockets, this will set you back ($140)
(10) check for oil leaking around the front fork seals, this will set you back $90 if it only needs seals and oil

Price/condition makes the deal, I just bought a 2001 CR125 for $1900! It needed a piston, ring, wrist pin and bearing, clutch, sidepanel fields, and it's done. I see them for $3500, at least I know what all is new in it since I did it. Look at www.autotrader.com, you can get a real good feel for what they are worth.

Lynd
'90 CR500R
'01 CR125

In fact I am going to print this forum and use it as a guideline to develop my checklist.

Are there service manuals for bikes similar to the OEM dealer service manuals you can purchase for cars. I would like to buy one for the bike that shows the bill of materials and diagrams for all of the mechanics and structure.

Here is THE best site for buying a used motorcycle. Just print it out and go..


http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html


If you buy a kawasaki, all the parts diagrams and part #'s are online and free from kawasaki's website.

Hey IWD1,

I have had aftermarket manuals such as Clymer, but I have to tell you that there is nothing like the factory one. There are details in there that you won't find in the others. Typically you can find manuals for sale on Ebay. There was a website that specialized in used bike manuals but unfortunately I no longer have the address. If you look around, I'm sure that you will find what you are looking for. They typically go for $20-$25 on Ebay. Here's a good link for you...http://216.37.204.203/honda_OEM/hondadb.asp
this is a dealer link that gives you the factory parts layout, part number, and prices!!! A fellow forum member from another site gave me this and it is invaluable!!!

Good Luck,
HotRod

Unless you are a die hard Honda man, I would ask around about the 97, 98, 99 CR250R MX bikes. Although they are very well made bikes, they vibrate something fierce.

My friend has a 98 Cr250 and I have a 98 KX250. If I ride the CR a few laps, my hands are almost numb compared to my KX. The aluminum frame is very very ridgid and that creates the vibration and stiffness. I think in 00 or 01, Honda took some of the strength out of the aluminum frame as well as put better dampening in the bars to help the situation.

Just my 2 cents worth :)

I just brought home a 99 cr250r. The bike is in pristine condition, it is completely stock, I paid a modest $2400 for the toy the blue book value is $2600. I am happy that there was not alot of wear and tear on it. I need to do basic repairs that at least require yearly maintenance but other than that it is in great shape. Thanks to everyone who responded for all of the advice it helped me make a very informed and smart purchase that will satisfy me for years to come. :D

Glad to hear that you found one. They're work no matter which one you buy but the better shape you start in, the less work right off the bat. Remember the formula..... the amount of fun is directly proportional to the amount of money that you will spend LOL!:D Good luck, I think that you will be happy with a '99 250.