Carpentry and Woodworking - Finishing hard maple
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Dave Therkidsen
11-05-02, 04:50 PM
I am currently building a bedroon set (bed, end tables, dressers, samll entertainment center, etc.) My wife and I chose what we wanted at a local store and I am copying that design. They used hard maple so I used hard maple. I am ready to finish some of the pieces and I cannot get the hard maple to take a stain. We wanted a dark walnut / red mahogany mix type of color. I have tried oil stains, water based stains, dyes, danish oils, etc. and nothing seems to touch it. I ghave been to several local paint / stain stores and they have all given up. I have also been to proffesional finishers thinking I would let them do the finish. No takers. Any tricks of the trade or products you might suggest?
AlexH
11-06-02, 03:32 PM
Since it appears that you have spent much time and money buidling the furnituire why don't you get the encyclopedia of wood finishing, "Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish"
by Bob Flexner
by Bob Flexner
George
11-06-02, 05:06 PM
I can second Alex's suggestion about Bob's book - it's part of my ready reference library.
As for getting the color you want, you already know how hard it is to get maple to take a stain, so we won't go into that.
Most manufacturers making maple furniture use an NGR stain - a stain soluble in alcohol that penetrates better than most stains you can by on the retail market.
Also, they normally use what is called in furniture refinishing a 'toner' - this is a clear finish (usually lacquer)that has color added. This is applied by spray gun. This, in my opnion, is about the only way you're going to get those pieces as dark as you want them. One possible alternative is a gel stain. This can be layered on, allowing 24-48 hours for previous applications to dry before recoating.
You need to be aware that applying a stain in this manner tends to obscure the grain of the wood.
Good luck!
As for getting the color you want, you already know how hard it is to get maple to take a stain, so we won't go into that.
Most manufacturers making maple furniture use an NGR stain - a stain soluble in alcohol that penetrates better than most stains you can by on the retail market.
Also, they normally use what is called in furniture refinishing a 'toner' - this is a clear finish (usually lacquer)that has color added. This is applied by spray gun. This, in my opnion, is about the only way you're going to get those pieces as dark as you want them. One possible alternative is a gel stain. This can be layered on, allowing 24-48 hours for previous applications to dry before recoating.
You need to be aware that applying a stain in this manner tends to obscure the grain of the wood.
Good luck!
Randy Mallory
11-08-02, 10:19 AM
Dave,
Gel stain does work better at this, but another possibility you could try are the one-step products in which the color and finish are in one product. Both Olympic and Minwax manufacture these products. I've found that controlling color is much easier on soft woods with these products, and I have also had excellent results on Oak, Poplar, and Alder. Since the color is in the finish, stain penetration is not as important. I believe this might work for you on maple. The color become darker with each application.
Give it a try and report back.
Gel stain does work better at this, but another possibility you could try are the one-step products in which the color and finish are in one product. Both Olympic and Minwax manufacture these products. I've found that controlling color is much easier on soft woods with these products, and I have also had excellent results on Oak, Poplar, and Alder. Since the color is in the finish, stain penetration is not as important. I believe this might work for you on maple. The color become darker with each application.
Give it a try and report back.