Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - 2 Cycle Engine Problem
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sscaro
11-03-02, 10:15 AM
My 7 year old, occasionally used Ryobi Gas Blower will start and idle on full choke but will not accelerate or run on anything less than almost full choke. The carbuerator diapraghm was replaced by a repair shop a couple of years ago (It wouldn't start at all, then).
I suspect a carb problem, but have never tackled a two cycle carb and wondered if this forum could steer me in the right direction. Is it time to just buy a new blower?
Thanks in advance.
I suspect a carb problem, but have never tackled a two cycle carb and wondered if this forum could steer me in the right direction. Is it time to just buy a new blower?
Thanks in advance.
ALMOST
11-03-02, 02:32 PM
was reading your post , and i'm thinking maybe you have a seal leaking some where , sucking air , this is maybe why it will run when choke is almost closed, maybe try spraying carb cleaner around some of the spots that have gaskets and see if your rpm go up when you do this , or try checking screen on fuel hose in tank and see if it is pluged , just a thought maybe nothing ,other things you have to watch out for are the ports on the mufferler , it will become clogged with carbon deposits from time to time , need to clean carbon out of this area by takeing mufferler off and make sure piston is up and scrape carbon out of mufferler port , then use air to clean this area out
J A Boggan
11-03-02, 02:40 PM
Could you get us a name and number off the carburator. It's usually small and hard to find but there is one on there somewhere. If you can come up with these numbers I may can come up with a repair kit number. Also, when your rebuilding the carburator you want to keep everything as clean as possible. You also want to clean out "all" the tiny passages, including the ones under the "welch" plugs.
Sharp Advice
11-03-02, 04:34 PM
Hello sscaro. Welcome to our Do-It-Yourself Web Site and our Small Engine forum.
Every suggestion and about every possible problem has been posted. However, like yourself, I suspect it's a carb problem too. You mentioned key words. The machine was occasionally used.
It's always possible the left in the carb fuel went stale. This happening has gummed up the carb and fuel passages through the carb. A carb internal cleaning would then be required.
Also a good idea to check the fuel line for flow, clean or replace the air filter, fuel filter and flush out the fuel tank, since the problem is fuel related.
It's possible but not likely a forced spray of canned carb cleaner into the fuel adjustment screw holes may clean out the passages. Possible but not likely. May be worth a try.
Be sure to note the exact number of turns outwards each adjustment screw is currently set at before removal of the screw.
To accomplish this task, count the number of turns it takes to first turn the screw inwards. Make a note. Then remove the screw.
Read the other postings and replies offered on this same type of problem topic in the recent postings, within this forum, for additional help & information on this subject.
If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button. Using the reply button moves the topic back up to the top of the daily topic list automatically.
Regards & Good Luck. Tom_B.
Web Site Host & Small Engine Forum Moderator
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Proficient Services....:D
Every suggestion and about every possible problem has been posted. However, like yourself, I suspect it's a carb problem too. You mentioned key words. The machine was occasionally used.
It's always possible the left in the carb fuel went stale. This happening has gummed up the carb and fuel passages through the carb. A carb internal cleaning would then be required.
Also a good idea to check the fuel line for flow, clean or replace the air filter, fuel filter and flush out the fuel tank, since the problem is fuel related.
It's possible but not likely a forced spray of canned carb cleaner into the fuel adjustment screw holes may clean out the passages. Possible but not likely. May be worth a try.
Be sure to note the exact number of turns outwards each adjustment screw is currently set at before removal of the screw.
To accomplish this task, count the number of turns it takes to first turn the screw inwards. Make a note. Then remove the screw.
Read the other postings and replies offered on this same type of problem topic in the recent postings, within this forum, for additional help & information on this subject.
If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button. Using the reply button moves the topic back up to the top of the daily topic list automatically.
Regards & Good Luck. Tom_B.
Web Site Host & Small Engine Forum Moderator
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Proficient Services....:D
sscaro
11-03-02, 08:49 PM
I was able to download a manual and adjusted the carb (Idle mixture screw out a little less than 1/4 turn). It runs now, but still acts like it wants to bog down a little when accelerating - sometimes I have to feather the throttle to get it to rev without dying. It will be interesting to see if it starts the next time I go to use it.
I also noticed when I pushed the primer bulb that it seemed "squishier" and not as firm as it has been in the past, like it was drawing in air with the fuel - the tank was full.
By the way, according to the description in the manual, it has a Walbro carb.
Does it sound like I need to rebuild the carb?
I also noticed when I pushed the primer bulb that it seemed "squishier" and not as firm as it has been in the past, like it was drawing in air with the fuel - the tank was full.
By the way, according to the description in the manual, it has a Walbro carb.
Does it sound like I need to rebuild the carb?
Sharp Advice
11-04-02, 07:35 AM
Hello: sscaro
When the engine bogs down between idle and acceleration, usually increasing the low speed fuel supply adjustment screw resolves the problem.
Reminder, 2 cycle engines do not have governors. Therefore, the correct fuel adjustments are critical. Slightly fuel rich provides the best over all performance, cooling and lubricating too.
Adjust the fuel screws to the settings it takes to accelerate from idle to full speed without the boging. Then a slightly richer mixture at idle and top speed to insure proper engine performance.
If you find it impossible to obtain the ideal settings and engine running performance, the carb could be slightly restricted.
If you suspect there is a problem with the primer, check for air leaks in the fuel supplies to it and the seal beneath the primer bubble.
When the engine bogs down between idle and acceleration, usually increasing the low speed fuel supply adjustment screw resolves the problem.
Reminder, 2 cycle engines do not have governors. Therefore, the correct fuel adjustments are critical. Slightly fuel rich provides the best over all performance, cooling and lubricating too.
Adjust the fuel screws to the settings it takes to accelerate from idle to full speed without the boging. Then a slightly richer mixture at idle and top speed to insure proper engine performance.
If you find it impossible to obtain the ideal settings and engine running performance, the carb could be slightly restricted.
If you suspect there is a problem with the primer, check for air leaks in the fuel supplies to it and the seal beneath the primer bubble.
sscaro
11-04-02, 07:08 PM
Thanks.