Carpentry and Woodworking - Consider rebuilding interior stairs
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AlexH
10-17-02, 01:09 PM
Hi,
My house has ugly wall dividers instead of handrails on the stairs. I'm considering removing the dividers and replacing with handrails/balusters. The stairs are currently carpeted so I would replace the treads also. Some questions I have -
1. I'm trying to picture what the space between the tread and the outer wall will look like after removing the divider wall. I assume it will just be the ends of vertical framing 2x4's (after I cut them). If I use these to support the outer stringer is that most likely sufficient? The stringer would be nailed to the studs through drywall.
2. Since I want to put in hardwood treads (and the treads need to be longer to overlap the stringer), I should remove the existing treads and replace them as opposed to placing the hardwood tread on top of them, correct?
Of course before attempting this I'll get a book on stair design/construction.
Thanks
My house has ugly wall dividers instead of handrails on the stairs. I'm considering removing the dividers and replacing with handrails/balusters. The stairs are currently carpeted so I would replace the treads also. Some questions I have -
1. I'm trying to picture what the space between the tread and the outer wall will look like after removing the divider wall. I assume it will just be the ends of vertical framing 2x4's (after I cut them). If I use these to support the outer stringer is that most likely sufficient? The stringer would be nailed to the studs through drywall.
2. Since I want to put in hardwood treads (and the treads need to be longer to overlap the stringer), I should remove the existing treads and replace them as opposed to placing the hardwood tread on top of them, correct?
Of course before attempting this I'll get a book on stair design/construction.
Thanks
Trent Bridley
10-17-02, 06:59 PM
Hi,
First thing that I would do is to find out if code will allow the removal. Then you need to find out if anything is load bearing.
You could do some of the demolition to "peer" inside to get a look before doing a complete tear out. I would then start this out as a new stair case. The books will help and there are manufactured units or kits also available. Tip: If I remember right the tread and riser should be 17" total with the tread being no less than 8". Check a book to be sure.
good luck,
Trent
First thing that I would do is to find out if code will allow the removal. Then you need to find out if anything is load bearing.
You could do some of the demolition to "peer" inside to get a look before doing a complete tear out. I would then start this out as a new stair case. The books will help and there are manufactured units or kits also available. Tip: If I remember right the tread and riser should be 17" total with the tread being no less than 8". Check a book to be sure.
good luck,
Trent
AlexH
10-20-02, 03:32 PM
Thanks for the advice..
I decided I'll probably just remove the carpet and put in hardwood treads. Thus the treads will be between 2 walls.
It is possible to get a tight fit in this case or would I have to use some type of molding to cover any gap between the tread and wall?
I'm aware of the tread jigs.
Also, I assume that I will have to remove the existing treads. Hopefully these treads were installed after the walls/drywall was put in. If not they will have to be cut in place to remove them.
Are treads usually screwed through the face? I have put in hardwood floor borders before using countersunk screws with plugs and I liked the effect.
As far as the tread at the top of the stairs, it will be surrounded by existing carpet. I was told that the best way to finish the carpet around the hardwood tread is to use a Z bar. I'll probably have a carpet repair person do this. A reducer has to be attached to the floor/tread to make a smooth transition to carpet, correct?
I can get treads and nosing pieces etc at a full service lumber yard, correct?
Thanks
I decided I'll probably just remove the carpet and put in hardwood treads. Thus the treads will be between 2 walls.
It is possible to get a tight fit in this case or would I have to use some type of molding to cover any gap between the tread and wall?
I'm aware of the tread jigs.
Also, I assume that I will have to remove the existing treads. Hopefully these treads were installed after the walls/drywall was put in. If not they will have to be cut in place to remove them.
Are treads usually screwed through the face? I have put in hardwood floor borders before using countersunk screws with plugs and I liked the effect.
As far as the tread at the top of the stairs, it will be surrounded by existing carpet. I was told that the best way to finish the carpet around the hardwood tread is to use a Z bar. I'll probably have a carpet repair person do this. A reducer has to be attached to the floor/tread to make a smooth transition to carpet, correct?
I can get treads and nosing pieces etc at a full service lumber yard, correct?
Thanks
rvitek
10-22-02, 11:41 AM
Alex - I posted a reply to all of your questions in the Hardwood Flooring forum :)