Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Bathroom Floor like the side of a mountain

Hello,
First time poster and I need some guidance. I can usually figure these sort of things out but in this instance I could really use some do it the right way the first time sort of help.
I recently recieved some "quartz based recombined" floor tile (really beautiful stuff) and decided to erdo my batroom floor with it. Here are the major issues:
1. first and foremost the floor measures approx. 6' by 6' and is 1.25" out of level along 1 plane. (I have'nt ripped up the subfloor to see which way the joists run yet I view this as potentially biggest problem but with the fact that the floor is only out of level along only one plane leads me to believe that joist run in the same direction as the slope of the floor.)
2. not much of an issue but was wondering if andone knew whether or not a 4.5" angle grinder fitted woth a diamond blade would be sufficient to cut the material. (I can cut straight freehand) or should I rent a wetsaw
3. I don't plan on removing the bathtub (could this be a problem I'm not consideringsuch as not being able to secure a new floor to a joist right next to the tub? and yes the tub is out of level too)
4. The toilet and vanity are on the "low" end of the floor what problems can expect as far as plumbing is concerned.
My own solution (basically just want to know if this will work)
1. assuming the joists run in the same direction can I "pad them with 6' wedges 1.25"-0" and affix the to the old joists thus leveling them or am I just asking for trouble?

Thanx in advance
-Ryan

Well first off that floor better be stout and NO DEFLECTION(movement) if stone tile of any kind is being placed on it, according to ANSI specs. Thinsetting right to a wood surface is a no-no. A dry-pack mud bed, cement tile backer board, or an uncoupling membrane like Schutler Ditra, is mandatory for a lasting installation.



#1 Not always

#2 Ya, it can be done, since everything gets trim, because of the expansion gap that needs to be left, and the doorjambs getting undercut so the tile slides under for a clean look. All according to ANSI specifications.

#3 Well when you start tearing things out, your going to find why things are not level as they were, when the home was originally built and you want to put heavy tile on it. But hey, it's only money, right? What is your budget again?

#4 Well that adds a twist. The subfloor is going to need to be flat, Don't get flat confused with level. So the plumbing is going to need to come up. Hmmmmm? Slopes off on the pumbing end of the room. Wow! my common sense is kicking in!

Go for it, you'll learn a lot along the way.

There is a good tile forum at JohnBridge.com

I'm not an installer, but have worked in flooring for the past six years, and have a few tips for you. As far as the cutting of the tiles I would simply measure out your floor layout, and mark the tiles, then take them to your local major home center. Not sure of the rules so I will leave the names of the centers to you. :) You know, the orange one?? They will cut the tiles for you on a $1000 wet saw giving you excellent cuts, plus they can cut tile to fit under the toilet, but this will cost a bit more. I used to charge about $10, and some employees won't attempt it, and some stores won't do it. I was not technicaly supposed to cut them as it usualy involves alot of cutting eating up the blade life. I think you will be able to get them cut however, just be persisant. As for the plumbing on the toilet, there are many flanges available to fix this problem, so that shouldn't be a concern, just a search for the solution. As posted before you need to install backer board This is the easiest way to provide the needed surface to install the tile. If you want the floor level, you can use a self leveling material simply poured onto the floor, then 3/8 ply, then 1/4 backer. Or you could do the leveling then a 1/2 backer board which I think would be the preferable solution as the transition to other flooring would not be as high, but in any case you do know that with the tile and backer board you will be probably be close to an inch higher than your existing floor assuming the tile you refer to is 1/2 or so. Need to take height into consideration here as well, and figure out how you will transition from the tile to carpet/wood etc. Also as said in the last post the floor must be absolutely secure, and sound with nary a movement anywhere for a lasting install. If the floor is very sound you should be able to just install a 1/4 inch backer, then install the tile with a high quality thinset that has additives allready mixed in. The additives will allow for a little movment as it is stronger, and more flexible at the same time. You will also need to find the joists as you will need to get some of the screws holding the backer board down into these joists for a good install. Simply screwing them into slats or ply wood could cause problems in the long run. Like the first post solidity is all important in a tile install above ground. Find someone at your local home center who knows what they are talking about, and get your info there. This is where I came from. I learned more in 7 months at THE HD :) than I did in 5 years in Sears flooring dept. (which no longer exists BTW) Assuming the floor is sound, use 1/4 backer put down with proper screws and thinset, then install the tiles using the thinset to level the floor and tiles, get all your cuts done on this small job at your home center. Oh, I would be remiss if I didn't mention there are two forms of backer board. One is cement based and is water resisitant, the other is water proof, and in a bathroom I would use the waterproof backer just is case, but either will be fine IF THE FLOOR IS SECURE AND SOUND :p We keep harping on this as it is the most important consideration when doing tile on a wood subfloor. Otherwise do one of the nice vinyls with the self leveling material made by a few companies. Much cheaper, and less problematic, and very easy to install. Otherwise, Wish you luck and ease in your install. Take care Tom

I know they say it is OK to put the 1/4" Hardie on the floor, but I always spec 1/2" for floors, just for my peace of mind. I use 1/4" on counter tops, and tub surrounds, over the infamous "green board" with a moisture barrier under it. But never on floors. The 1/2" add a little rigidity to the floor also.