Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - refinishing a walnut chair
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hi ho sliver
08-27-02, 03:58 PM
I am sanding down a walnut chair, the old finish is coming off very easily, and has a slight yellowish cast to the dust, without seeing it would you think that to be varnish or shellac.....and what would be a good way to bring it back, it is pretty dry. thank you
George
08-27-02, 05:30 PM
From the ease with which it is being removed, I'd suspect shellac, give the two choices you mentioned, but here's a way to find out for sure.
Dampen a rag in denatured alcohol (shellac thinner). Wipe a still finished area in a circular motion. If the rag starts to drag or stick, you're dealing with shellac OR lacquer. If not, you're dealing with varnish.
If the piece had a factory finish and that's what you're dealing with, it's almost certainly lacquer.
Wood in furniture is dead - it's supposed to be dry. That's what makes it machinable and suitable for furniture. A good finish of your choice will restore both the lustre of the wood as well as protect it from variations in humidity.
The claims of some manufacturers as to 'feeding the finish' and 'nourishing the wood' (how do you nourish something that's DEAD, for pete's sake!) are just so much B---S---.
BTW, if you plan on using a polyurethane finish, best make certain ALL the old finish is gone. Poly is NOT compatible with other finishes.
Dampen a rag in denatured alcohol (shellac thinner). Wipe a still finished area in a circular motion. If the rag starts to drag or stick, you're dealing with shellac OR lacquer. If not, you're dealing with varnish.
If the piece had a factory finish and that's what you're dealing with, it's almost certainly lacquer.
Wood in furniture is dead - it's supposed to be dry. That's what makes it machinable and suitable for furniture. A good finish of your choice will restore both the lustre of the wood as well as protect it from variations in humidity.
The claims of some manufacturers as to 'feeding the finish' and 'nourishing the wood' (how do you nourish something that's DEAD, for pete's sake!) are just so much B---S---.
BTW, if you plan on using a polyurethane finish, best make certain ALL the old finish is gone. Poly is NOT compatible with other finishes.
hi ho sliver
08-27-02, 06:22 PM
ok I will try that with the alcohol, by dry I mean the chair was left out in the weather for a short time, enough to raise the grain across the back of the chair, my thought was something like tongue oil (spell?) would that be a good choice, have experience in sanding but very very little in finishing.
hi ho sliver
08-28-02, 12:58 PM
Originally posted by George
From the ease with which it is being removed, I'd suspect shellac, give the two choices you mentioned, but here's a way to find out for sure.
Dampen a rag in denatured alcohol (shellac thinner). Wipe a still finished area in a circular motion. If the rag starts to drag or stick, you're dealing with shellac OR lacquer. If not, you're dealing with varnish.
If the piece had a factory finish and that's what you're dealing with, it's almost certainly lacquer.
Wood in furniture is dead - it's supposed to be dry. That's what makes it machinable and suitable for furniture. A good finish of your choice will restore both the lustre of the wood as well as protect it from variations in humidity.
The claims of some manufacturers as to 'feeding the finish' and 'nourishing the wood' (how do you nourish something that's DEAD, for pete's sake!) are just so much B---S---.
BTW, if you plan on using a polyurethane finish, best make certain ALL the old finish is gone. Poly is NOT compatible with other finishes.
########tried the alcohol, wiped it down and the brown came off on the rag, but chair wasn't sticky?
From the ease with which it is being removed, I'd suspect shellac, give the two choices you mentioned, but here's a way to find out for sure.
Dampen a rag in denatured alcohol (shellac thinner). Wipe a still finished area in a circular motion. If the rag starts to drag or stick, you're dealing with shellac OR lacquer. If not, you're dealing with varnish.
If the piece had a factory finish and that's what you're dealing with, it's almost certainly lacquer.
Wood in furniture is dead - it's supposed to be dry. That's what makes it machinable and suitable for furniture. A good finish of your choice will restore both the lustre of the wood as well as protect it from variations in humidity.
The claims of some manufacturers as to 'feeding the finish' and 'nourishing the wood' (how do you nourish something that's DEAD, for pete's sake!) are just so much B---S---.
BTW, if you plan on using a polyurethane finish, best make certain ALL the old finish is gone. Poly is NOT compatible with other finishes.
########tried the alcohol, wiped it down and the brown came off on the rag, but chair wasn't sticky?
George
08-28-02, 04:48 PM
Sounds like the finish may have deteriorated so far it doesn't react - the brown you got was the stain UNDER the finish.
Tung oil is a nearly fool proof finish - wipe on, let stand according to directions, wipe off.
The more coats you apply, the shinier it gets. If the finish gets to looking a little dull after a while, or you get a little ding or scratch, just go over the chair again with the same finish; it's that easy.
Tung oil does not offer as much protection as a polyurethane or standard varnish, but it is soooo
much easier to work with!
Tung oil is a nearly fool proof finish - wipe on, let stand according to directions, wipe off.
The more coats you apply, the shinier it gets. If the finish gets to looking a little dull after a while, or you get a little ding or scratch, just go over the chair again with the same finish; it's that easy.
Tung oil does not offer as much protection as a polyurethane or standard varnish, but it is soooo
much easier to work with!
hi ho sliver
08-28-02, 05:23 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by George
Sounds like the finish may have deteriorated so far it doesn't react - the brown you got was the stain UNDER the finish.
Tung oil is a nearly fool proof finish - wipe on, let stand according to directions, wipe off.
The more coats you apply, the shinier it gets. If the finish gets to looking a little dull after a while, or you get a little ding or scratch, just go over the chair again with the same finish; it's that easy.
Tung oil does not offer as much protection as a polyurethane or standard varnish, but it is soooo
much easier to work with! [/QUO
#########################################
I HAVE NEVER USED TUNG OIL, IS IT TRUE IT TAKES ABOUT 4 DAYS TO DRY!
##########################################
Sounds like the finish may have deteriorated so far it doesn't react - the brown you got was the stain UNDER the finish.
Tung oil is a nearly fool proof finish - wipe on, let stand according to directions, wipe off.
The more coats you apply, the shinier it gets. If the finish gets to looking a little dull after a while, or you get a little ding or scratch, just go over the chair again with the same finish; it's that easy.
Tung oil does not offer as much protection as a polyurethane or standard varnish, but it is soooo
much easier to work with! [/QUO
#########################################
I HAVE NEVER USED TUNG OIL, IS IT TRUE IT TAKES ABOUT 4 DAYS TO DRY!
##########################################
George
08-29-02, 05:47 PM
No.
Applied according to directions, the piece should be perfectly usable within 24 hours after the last application.
Applied according to directions, the piece should be perfectly usable within 24 hours after the last application.
hi ho sliver
08-29-02, 05:48 PM
OK thank you for the help and information