Kitchen Gas Appliances - Fuel Conversion Question

Hi, I have a Wards self cleaning range/oven that I need to convert from NG to LP. I called my appliance parts supplier for the kit and was told this model, KTM-2488-87, doesn't need any kit as I just have to screw the oriffices in or out on the range top and in the oven to adjust for the pressure differences. My problem is I no longer have the owners manual describing the procedure! After looking through these archives and surfing the web looking for info, I have found nothing for this stove. Unfortunately Wards is out of business so I can't call them either.
If it matters, these units were made by Tappen for Wards. I need my stove but don't want to burn my place down. Can anyone explain the procedure to me? Which way and how much do I turn the fittings? Thanks in advance for any and all replies. James

Hello: James

The basic procedure would be to first conver the appliances regulator. This is a rather simple process, if the reg is convertable.

Assuming it is, remove the cap on top of the appliance reg and turn it over. Then reinstall it by threading it back into the tower. Look closely at the cap. One side should be marked "Nat" and the other side should be marked "LP."

Once that is done, convert the ovens thermostat by removing the temp knob. Next to the stem, on the body of the valve, will be a slotted screw marked "LP" and "NAT." Turn the screw to the "LP."

Next, turn the orifices to each burner roght to close them down and left to open them up. The wrench size needed will be a 7/16th inch thin wall wrench.

Converting from nat to lp, you'll need to close the orifices down some by turning them to the right. Adjust each burner exactly to the same height they currently are, one orifice at at time.

This step is close to critical. The idea here is to duplicate the current flame size for each burner after the conversion.

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Regards & Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
Gas Appliances Forum Moderator
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Mr Bartco,
Thanks for your quick reply. I flipped the cap in the reg as suggested. It looks like a 1" long X 1/2"dia aluminum cylinder with one open end and threads on the outside. A hex nut set the depth and I had to use a wrench to loosen it. I threaded the nut back to the center of the cap and reinstalled the cap after first putting the spring back into the reg.
The oven thermostat has no NAT to LP screw as mentioned. There are 2 screws holding the thermostat in place and 2 wires attached to it in the back. There are no screws anywhere else on the oven thermostat. Should I simply adjust the orifices and see what happens? Thanks again for your help.
James

Hello: James

You can test the results at this time, before making any adjustments, since the regulator is now converted. Note the burner flame sizes at all burners and adjust as previously mentioned to maintain the orginal size prior to the regulators conversion.

The "NAT" to "LP" conversion selection is most likely on the ovens burner gas valve where the burner tube rest on or is attached. Check that location for a set screw or some type of tiny selection device or method.

There is no adjustable orifice to the pilot flame. The orifice is preset and controls the pilot flames size and height by some type of control and not by wrench adjustments.

Hope this additional info helps.
Tom_B

I test fired all surface burners and the oven. The surface flame seems the same height no matter how I adjust the burners, too high. The oven heats but the flame comes up through the oven floor vents. Is there some way to decrease the gas pressure? The tag on the oven gas valve says; LP .5 pressure and has "not field serviceable" stamped on the top cover. I have flipped the regulator cap from NAT to LP as suggested but there are simply no more adjustments I can find.
Is it possible to screw the regulator cap down further into the regulator? Would this drop the pressure at the burners? It is threaded the full exterior length and has a thin hex nut to set depth into the reg body. The flames on the range top and the oven look good, nice blue etc. The trouble seems to be too much delivery pressure since ALL the burners roar when lit. Would adjusting every burner orifice down, clockwise, to their stops make any difference or am I simply going to have to pull the regulator and oven gas valve and see if there are adjustments available that are now hidden? HELP!!
Thanks.
James

Hello: jajamase

If you convered the regulator, then it should now be set correctly. to adjust the burners, turn each orifice clockwise to adjust the burner falmes to there orginal flame size.

Doing this should control the burner flames size. It does take several turns before the flames can be visually noticed as reduced in size.

If turning the orifices all the way down does not reduce the flame size or totally shut off the fuel to the burner, then each orifice must be replaced. They are the non adjustable type.

Each orifice is drilled out to a range of burner BTU output size. Out put of each burner can be determined by the info found on the rate plate installed by the manufacturer. Look for it.

There should not be any threading involved in regulator converting, except to thread the cap back into the tower after flipping it over. The spring and the cap are preset and marked with the fuel type on top of the cap.

Either LP or Nat will be stamped into the cap, one per side. No pressure adjustment should have to be set or adjusted. The center threaded screw is not to be turned. If you did so, return it to it's orginal position.

Good Luck,
Tom_B

Thanks! I turned all the orifices CW as far as they would go and now the flames are perfect! The flame is now controlled by the burner knob as it should be. I can't thank you enough for your help. It was the difference between a little money spent and a LOT of money, as in new stove. Thanks again! You saved my checking account from a needless raid!
James