Doors and Windows - Replacement Windows

I'm up in the air on which windows to use to replace the wooden ones I have now. I have looked only at the Reliabilt ones at Lowes and as always sort of hesitant of windows from Lowe's.

I just bought a 1969 brick home in June but been living there for three years and I have been doing some home improvements. I feel confident when I tackle a job, I have refinished the hardwood floors, remodeled the bathroom, replaced the range and dishwasher, built a deck on the back and installed a drain and sump pump in the basement. Sort of Jack of all trades but master of none type of guy.

The House is 3300 sq. ft. with 28 windows and I know it's gonna be a big investment and probably will do the window replacement one room at a time. I just don't know about me doing the replacement though because I'm not sure what I'll be getting myself into. How hard of a job is it? And which windows are considered the best buy for your buck?

This is my first post and I'm new to this Forum, but I'm here because I feel like from what I read on many of the other messages there is some real handymen and professionals that can shed some light on this subject for me.

Oh one last thing, the reason I'm looking at replaceing my windows in because of energy savings. The light bill shot up to 350.00 last month and in the summer it's usally around 200.00 or less and that just hurts your feelings. I have installed fans in the attic so I hope that helps some, but I think the windows will make a big difference

Thanks

The actual installation of the replacements isn't hard, the more difficult part ( but still not rocket science) is covering the outside with trim coil to give yourself a maintenance free exterior. You have the advantage of having windows that vinyl replacements were REALLY designed for ( though you can use them in all kinds of situations)

To replace, you either remove the inside stop....the little pc of trim that laps over the sash ( and probably the aluminum track yours have ), raise the lower sash, fold the aluminum track in to the window center ( usually has a couple staples holding it to the jamb), then grab both sashes and pivot inward. Remove the parting stop you should have at the top of the opening....a 1/2x3/4 pc of wood set in a groove......You are now ready for the replacement.

OR....if your inside stop is painted up "purty":) and you don't want to disturb it, or they lapped the casing moulding over the stop and you can't get to it without taking the casing off too ....go from the outside......remove the storm window if present, and chisel off the stop moulding it was mounted to on both sides ( you don't need to take the top off ). Again, fold the aluminum tracks inward, the jerk both sashes and track out to you....take the stop out of the top and you're ready for replacement. Stick the replacement in the hole, lift up to the head ( thats WHY you gotta take that parting stop out at the top in the center) and use the outside stop I told ya NOT to chisel off as a pivot to push the bottom into place until you're up against the inside stop. Go inside and screw it in place. Only thing you have to watch in going from the outside, is now you have a chiseled off stop to cover, which again, I do with trim coil ( color to match windows) when I wrap the whole brick mould and onto the new window.....You can rent a sheet metal brake and do the same....go around the neighborhood and look a some pro installed replacements.....and hey, Knock first....ya might get shot as a peeper elsewise !! ahahahahaha

To measure your replacements: On that age house, they should be REAL standard wood windows.....they will measure something like 36" wide by 37 1/2" tall ( at the upper part of the sloped sill where the lower sash made contact with the sill) in like your bedrooms, and 53 1/2" tall in places like your living room ..... order a 35 3/4" x 37 1/2" replacement....specify EXACT SIZE>>>VERY IMPORTANT FOR A GOOD FIT<<<<<<, or they will cut it 1/2 to 3/4" more from your measurments.
Typical for brick houses of that period where windows that run 24,28,32, 36, 40" in width ( cut 'em a 1/4" on the width) and 53 1/2" ( a "4/6 window" ) or 37 1/2" on the height ( a "3/2 window")
Example: the wood window was a 2/4 x 3/2.....28x38.....the replacement will be a 27 3/4" x 37 1/2" and will fit like a glove......trust me....I've done 10,000 of 'em.

Install with the four screws they will furnish, run a small bead of caulk around the inside and outside, except the outside sill.....stuff insulation there, and either use the sill angle pc that comes with the window to extend the flat bottom of the replacement to the sloped wood sill or make a metal trim pc to cover the whole sill and flash up under the replacement's screen lip.

I like a like a mechanical ( screwed together) frame on replacements so you don't have the internal drainage problems of a "welded" window......Look at Simonton Reflections series if you have a dealer near you.

New windows will help some with your electric bills, especially if you get LowE glass in them ( which I recommend....only adds $25 to most windows and you're saving a LOT more than that doing it yourself).....but DON'T expect it to solve your energy problems......insulation and ventilation will go a lot futher down that road.

These are probably contributing to the Bill more than they are helping it.

See the "attics" section, there is quite some discussion on this ...