Doors and Windows - Replacing Windows In Transite Shingles
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Mr.Bulb
08-07-02, 10:50 AM
I just bought a house built in 1918 that had horizontal shiplap siding originally that was later covered in transite shingles (yep, the asbestos stuff). We probably aren't going to replace the siding for the entire house anytime soon, but we do need to replace several windows. The existing windows are wooden double hung with counterweights and we are probably looking at wood or vinyl double hung as replacement. Does anyone have any advice on waterproofing and working with this sort of exterior conditions when replacing old windows with new ones?
Thanks, JOe
Thanks, JOe
Tn...Andy
08-07-02, 06:19 PM
Do you have a wood trim and sill on the outside that the shingles butt up to ??
Mr.Bulb
08-07-02, 06:59 PM
Not to sure about the ext. trim. I do remember the trim at a door-so I assume the windows were treated the same way. There is sill trim, but the jamb and head trim seem to have been removed and there is flashing (lead?) between the shingles and door frame.
Tn...Andy
08-08-02, 04:28 AM
Normally there was a 1x5 or 1x6 trim board on the sides of the window and on the top. The wide trim board was used to cover the cavity where the sash weights travel internally, and the top I guess was just to match the side widths.....additionally, the top trim often has a "drip moulding"....a small pc that sticks out an inch or so to shed water , and it usually has a metal cap flashing on top of it when shingles have been applied over the original siding.
When installing replacement windows, go from the inside....pull the inside stop moulding ( with old sash weight windows, you'll find it has usually already been pulled several times over the years to replace sash cords) and pull the old sashes to the inside, then install a vinyl replacement in that space. Also, best if you take off the inside casing on the sides, take out the sash weights and insulate that cavity, since it's just a hollow space and source of cold.
Then on the outside, you can either just caulk the window where it butts to the outside stop ( the 1/2" strip of wood just under that exterior 1x6, where a storm window is mounted if you have them), or you can cover the whole exterior trim with aluminum coil stock ( color to match window) if you get a sheet metal brake and can use it......that is how I normally finish them.....make a good watertite seal and ends the painting of the exterior trim.
When installing replacement windows, go from the inside....pull the inside stop moulding ( with old sash weight windows, you'll find it has usually already been pulled several times over the years to replace sash cords) and pull the old sashes to the inside, then install a vinyl replacement in that space. Also, best if you take off the inside casing on the sides, take out the sash weights and insulate that cavity, since it's just a hollow space and source of cold.
Then on the outside, you can either just caulk the window where it butts to the outside stop ( the 1/2" strip of wood just under that exterior 1x6, where a storm window is mounted if you have them), or you can cover the whole exterior trim with aluminum coil stock ( color to match window) if you get a sheet metal brake and can use it......that is how I normally finish them.....make a good watertite seal and ends the painting of the exterior trim.